Nepal Travel Stories, Page 20


I am going to slowly run out of girl friendly country and people type countries. This means I will have to travel to the places where they are not Christians, the places where I am a visitor and would never become a part of the community. So I am thinking after Eastern Europe that I will enter in the next year I will start to think more about destinations like the normal traveler. Jeff is honing my skills of destinations, as he is definitely a destination traveler. He has them all mapped out and on an itinerary. I am a little worried that he also has them micro managed to the budget price also. If he puts them little stick-em things inside the guidebook I will know for sure.

But as I travel to destinations I am thinking…

1. I would like to go take photos of Gorillas.

2. I would like to take photos of Tigers.

3. I would like to go into a Village off the Amazon River.

4. Etc.

I am almost positive in the next year I could purchase a Mobile Phone or Cell Phone that I can carry with me. I would buy the card to pay for time in the country I am visiting. I would call the USA for Internet Access and download and upload my emails. I would need to get to an Internet café every couple of week’s maybe to publish the page. I could afford to do the emails with either a cell or satellite telephone. These refills they sell in other countries makes it easy to buy access and no contracts. There is still a HUGE problem with Cell access in the world, but they are almost there. I estimate now one year. I am not sure on Africa, but I think it is the same as here.

They do not install telephone lines in remote parts of the world they install cell towers.

But this make is possible to go photo Gorillas for me.


Jeff and me found a cottage industry building full of people making backpacks and sleeping bags. He left this morning for Pohkara or something like that to see who is smoking Hash over there. Oops. I mean he went to see about trekking over there. I am making joke because in Katmandu a person tries to sell us Hash every 30 meters. It makes Varanasi look tame. So I am sure a lot of travelers go to the country to be safe and stoned.

But I am going to stay around a look at gear and look for what they call factories, but more of a few rooms with sewing machines. I am also going to buy some warmer clothes for the trip. I think for about 40 Dollars USA I can buy everything easily. Jacket, Sleeping Bag, Sweatshirt, Shirts, Mittens. Anything I want is cheap here. A good Minus 5 or 10 sleeping back cost around 10-15 Dollars USA.

I am still learning about sleeping bags. I have found that Katmandu people like to try to hit home runs on price. They are like Mexicans; they have no remorse or reluctance to ask 10 times the asking price. You MUST negotiate very hard here and ask around. But is Gear wonderland for the gadget and gear heads of the world.

I just realized that there is a lot of German here!


There is NO heat in 95 percent of rooms in Kathmandu.

I am living in a cave. The temperature is always the same. Most building in the world are made of concrete and if they sun does not bake for a long time the temperature inside will stay the same. I am in a cave with a door, bathroom, and a bed.


Jeff and me went to a restaurant the other night. He is extremely American and has itineraries and other plans, so I just sort of follow along. So on the same day that I sent a tip about “What is a clean Restaurant?” and sort of lambasted the people for using the Guidebook to choose restaurants he reads the Lonely Planet and we go to a restaurant that is recommended. It was called K- To or something like that. It was very nice, but definitely was Tourist and has nothing to do with “Shoestrings.”

They brought out our meals on them sizzler places.

I had grilled Chicken and French Fries, and Jeff has a steak.

There was a bar full stocked with a bunch of Brits watching Soccer of Football, a few other travelers that were celebrating a birthday. I knew this because they had a cake cooked and brought it to the table with candles to blow out. John Denver was singing “Rocky Mountain High,” in the background music. Candle light, and table clothes.

They had heat! This is the first heated room I have entered in Katmandu and that was wonderful. I walk around fully jacketed. I am “Full Jacketed Traveler.” I am trying to make a joke about the movie “Full Metal Jacket.”

Now you could say I am a hypocrite. But this is about thinking folks. I am not a hypocrite. I want you to think when you are just being a tourist and when you are being a budget traveler. There is nothing wrong with being a tourist, but do not say you are going on a shoestring and visit these restaurants every night. This is not a travelers restaurant it is a “Tourist Restaurant.” There was nothing NEPAL about the place, except the waiter talked English with a Nepal Accent.

There are 3 main reasons to travel to a country.

1. Destination like ruins, trekking, scenery.

2. Culture - This will include B below.

3. Entertainment and friendship.

A. Traveler and Tourist Friendship

B. Locals or Natives.

But if you are going to the country to see the “Real Nepal” or the “Real India,” or any other country and you can see other travelers. You are in the wrong place. If you see more travelers than you see locals you are in your country with different scenery.

I had a lady tell me about Safari, in Africa. A safari is for those people that do not want to see people. You could say it about those people that want to see Animals, but I would say it is probably the opposite.

So far if you just want to trek it seems that Colorado, or Switzerland or any of them mountains would be just as good, but more expensive.


I would definitely go to the USA and learn to Mountaineer. They have great mountains here, but I have not seen anyone yet that looks like they climb mountains. I saw a few in Hampi, India.

I would love to go to a city in the USA that is full of full on, crazy, and obsessive mountain climbers. People that will instruct for free and tell you everything you ever wanted to know. Sort of like a skateboarder or someone talking about Flash. You know the type. They are Full on and a fanatical. This is who is best to learn. I am surround by weekend trekkers here, but there are some real mountains here….!

Mount Everest is here. I am definitely coming back in warm weather to walk toward Everest. I am told you can drive up on the Tibet side.

Nepal needs a couple months of my time.

Note we are heading for Tibet, then to Beijing and I have decided to hop on the Siberian Railway to go toward Norway. It really ends in Finland or Sweden, but I have a reason to end in Norway.


Hi Andy - hope you found a sleeping bag or have some blankets, now that you are in the Himalayas. Even so, Weather Underground says your weather in Kathmandu, Nepal is better than mine in Idaho.

I wanted to pass on the US Embassy Travel Advisory for Nepal - note the date specific public transit advisory regarding the Maoist rebels, OK?

You've probably already seen this, but what the Hey, eh?

How's the coffee and how's the Internet access, btw? Shakira sends her love.

- Chris


First of all after India I am trying to not think about Shakira. I may go mad because India is bleak on women. Nepal is a lot better.

Internet access is kick ass! I am very happy. Broadband and the 3.5 drives work.

Coffees is actually better here also. The only coffee I could find in India was like a no-name brand. Here they have about 10

...Himalayas this and Himalayas that.

Better my Mom reads that advisor from me and not the neighbor.

But it is really comfortable here. I am living in a cave at a constant 54-58 degrees.

I am working on a room heater.

My shower system is almost perfected.

Jeff did not shower. I took a hot dip shower.

Thanks Chris

Andy in Ka Ka Ka Kathmandu, Nepal

I grew up with this song, so all the rest of you can suffer.

Note for the Anal.

Katmandu here is spelled Kathmandu

Stop it!


I am not sure why, but the water in Kathmandu is sometime brown when it comes out of the tap. It could be dirt, or it could maybe be minerals in the


My immersion heater is working great for hot water showers. Nepal has solar heated hot water and no sun… hehehe. I heated the tub and added to the water or utilized the very cold, but a little warmer than normal solar heated water.


Arrived in Kathmandu, Nepal last night at about 11:00 on a bus that was supposed to arrive at 7:30 pm. I think we got what we are calling in backpacker slang,

“The last screwing.”

Last screwing: The last time you get ripped, bullshitted, or cheated on the way out of a country. Normally this indicated you are between a rock and a hard place and they know they got you and you must pay. Example: The taxi from the train to the border. There is no way to know the fair price of the distance so you pay.

A situation arises when you are leaving a place that is very difficult to avoid. They know they are putting you on a bus, or train or who know what and they will never see you again. We purchased a train ticket from the Yogi Hotel, and this was OK.

But when we arrived at the end of the train we purchased what we thought was a Tourist Class bus to cross the border and go all the way to Kathmandu. We got screwed. The sold us the ticket and then put us on local buses that stopped everywhere or the locals bus. We could have just walked out of the train station and got on any bus going toward Nepal and done the same. We did NOT see any buses that were tourist class.

Tourist Class Bus - No locals on the bus, and make an express trip between destinations. Probably cost twice as much, and is twice as fast and smell twice as good. Bend over and pay because you can and do not want to mix with the locals.

I have a feeling that during high season they have this type of bus, but during low season they do the India thing. “No Problem,” acts stupid and expects you to be happy.

Not so happy campers.

I was laughing to myself, as they confronted to full on Americans that had no middle class guilt and could care less that the locals wanted to make us feel guilty. Me and Jeff arrived at Kathmandu and the man that did not speak English all the way there and would not help us suddenly become our best friend and wants us to go to the Hotel he was wanting to tout. He also was saying,

“Why do you think the Nepal people act like the India people?”

I said,

“Because you are acting the same,”

I know that he was not the same, but nonetheless he was acting the same, so I was being very direct.

I saw Jeff eyes get big when I started to tell the man he was a “Piece of Shit, and that we should agree to not talk.” Jeff was sort of saying that this was a little hard, but he also said,

“He has not given up.”

I said,

“Of course not, he is a prostitute. I could say anything to him, and he has no respect for himself. He works for money. He is for sale.”


When we got off the bus he proceeded again. It was unbelievable the gall of this jerk. I grabbed him one time, and started to throw him away… Note we were surrounded at the end of the trip at 10:30 pm in the dark by taxi drivers all screaming at us.

I backed Jeff up and said,

“Which one looks like a nice person?”

He pointed at the same one as I was thinking and we made an illogical, but instinctual choice, and we was correct. The dingaling jumped in the front seat with him and I got 3 degrees higher on the get out of my face level of violence. I told the driver to leave and I was violent. I grab him…. He was little and said,


This sounds intense, but they are used to abusing travelers and as a two-man traveler team they was defenseless in reality to our experience level. We could have anything we wish, but in the end all we wanted was a fair deal. I scared the boy driver and asked Jeff to pay him and extra 20 because I over-scared him. He was driving like a madman to get us out of the taxi quick. He took us to the correct location and was happy for the extra 20 Rupees.

I am constantly amazed at the guilt trips that have been attempted to be place on us or for me in the last three months. I am so tired of this you are rich so bend over ploy. It is disgusting and is for the “I am crazy, and full of crap, because I am crap people,” and not for Jeff and me. I cannot speak for Jeff, and do not wish to, but this is very tiring part of India. I am hoping that Nepal is off the guilt to sell methodology. India a lots of times a beggar nation. Feel sorry for me, but believe us that we are very smart, but you should pay a lot because we are poor, but you are rich, but we are poor, and we are very smart and I want to scream,

“If you was really smart! You would not be poor.”

Or as Oren said,

“Hey remember, they brush their teeth with twigs.”

I am thinking this should be the motto or way to remember. This is a re-focus on the priorities of whom you are dealing with. All of India is not like this, but trust me that the rich and smart are not trying to protect anyone and must be making a lot of money off the normal citizen. So do I do not give them any excuse. They are the blame and the fault. I also accept the responsibility for the actions of my people and my country.


I am calling it something else. But we are going to the country right above India tonight. We take a train just after midnight and will arrive I think at the border in the morning…

As Bob Segar the singer said,

“Were going to KA KA Kathmandu! That is all I ever wanted to do!”


Traveler Hotels are socially changing weekly or daily. The flavor of the Hotel will change drastically. I may love a Hotel the first time I enter or hate the Hotel the next time I would return. The flavor of the Yogi Lodge has changed to a better brain wave. This is nice.


If I had to make a life decision on India today?

I would say I am never returning.

If I was going to make a recommendation to tourist or travelers I would say come here only have your have completed 50 other countries and then just for traveler conversational protection.

I am going to define to myself what I meant about traveler conversational protection. There are conversations that start around the Hotel camp that are arrogant and defensive. One traveler will start insinuating that they or their culture is superior to another in some way. Like maybe a common one is that all countries travel more than the USA and therefore you would not understand about travel. Almost all Brits go or come to India on the way to Bangkok or Australia, and everyone in Asia can pipe up and tell you about one of these 3 places. India, Thailand, or Australia.

So for me to protect myself I must visit India to say I was here or I know the placed and ego in my understanding of Williams Sutcliffe’s book, “Are you experienced?” this is what he means.

Have you done this or that, and are you experienced, or in some ways are you a soft target that we can belittle?

His whole book is talking about the other so-called more experienced travelers being arrogant and making fun of him or trying to treat him stupid because he has not been to a place or does not know about a place. This is just crap. I can meet anyone in this Hotel and if I treated them in this manner they could talk about a place I have not visited and treat me as if I was stupid when I do not know of this place.

But a subtle and easy way to shut up the people that insinuate that I am not experienced is to quietly put them in place with a little name-dropping.

I can just talk about,

“Brazil” or maybe say something about “Iraq” if I want to really shut them up. I am saying to them,

“I am really experienced and you are not.”

For the abusive and belittling people of the world this is almost the only way to shut them up is by putting them “Quietly” in their proper place. I some time operate a little conversational protection when some obviously tramp is beating up on the new kid on the block. I will snap in a few places to get them to shut up and learn that if they pick on the new traveler I will pick on them. This keeps the conversations in balance. The true traveler problems develop when you too many of any culture in one spot. If there is too many of any culture then you have a problem, especially if they are drugged or drunk.

But I am now… “Experienced.” I have done the India thing and the Goa thing and can go have fun, and not have to listen to some Euro-trash insinuate that I do not understand the Europe-Asia-Australia path.


A worker from the Hotel just walked up behind me, he is brushing his teeth very vigorously, which make me very happy, as most of their teeth are very red and full of betel and other crap. Oops, Now he just cleared his throat and is spitting in the sink. He is absolutely a disgusting person. Oh, he did it, or is trying to wake up the whole place.

Why is he clueless?

He was brushing his teeth right behind me.

I look at him.

Take my hand and pretend I am brushing my teeth and point away. Saying to any Western person in a very nasty way,

“Get the hell out of here and go over there and brush your teeth.”

The Indian people are either,

1. Manners clueless.

2. Totally stupid.

3. Or just arrogant and like to piss off the Western culture.

An Austrian girl walked by and was listening to him walk down the steps. He now 2 levels down and I can still hear him coughing and spitting up mucous. He is a piece of real shit in view of people.

But, whatever he is, I think he is one step above a dog that starts to piss on you foot. You need to kick it, and it does not understand languages.

This is how I feel often….

Aagh. I would love to go down stairs and slap him silly. This is a need of operant conditioning. The man needs slapped and told to shut up. The whole country needs a slap across the head. I have absolutely no remorse in these comments. India is a disgusting culture and needs to get out of the animal mode of living. I am more then willing to have an up close and person conversation about this.

I wish you could hear this. He is still doing the noise. There are only maybe in this moment 2 India people in the whole hotel. But you can almost guarantee that huge gagging and spitting is coming from them. There is some girl in the room blowing her nose, and another guy brushing his teeth. They are all trying or they care about other people’s feelings and are attempting to be quiet.

What an “Ironic Coincidence.”

2 Very large Monkeys just ran across the top of the roof or grate area of the Hotel. They were very noisy and did not care.


I am thinking about crossing the border soon and leaving India. There are a lot of feelings I have about India, but sadly most of them are not pleasant. I feel like I have stepped in cow shit and I have in a sleeping bag with my shoes on. I never get a good clean feeling in a day. I felt clean in Palolem in Goa, but after leaving Goa it has been downhill all the way.

I think about whether I will every come back. I really cannot think why I would come back, or for what reason, or what I would feel I have missed. I really do not care much about beautiful sites if the people are not friendly and enjoyable.

Thailand people are not warm and friendly, but they are clean and like a cold feeling but efficient waitress.

India people are a little warmer and friendly, but I feel like there is only waiters and they all just went to the toilet and washed their ass with their hands, and then spit in the sink on the way back to the table to take my order.

I always have a feeling with India people that they only talk if they want something. Even the very very friendly ones want to go to the USA or want something. I have not had many conversations or cannot remember many where the people did not want something or have an ulterior motive. A truly jaded person would now say,

“All people are like this.”

But this is not true. I meet travelers every day that are genuinely kind, even the totally crazy can be kind sometimes. Most crazies are too wrapped up in their mental crap to really be kind or generous unless it can help them look important.

Looking important to ones self is a basic need of most people. So you constantly hear a lot of travel bravo as they talk, or how they travel, or where they travel, or the most common in the belittling of other travelers, and the embellishing of themselves and their culture.


I am amazed how cold it is this morning. I have on a sweatshirt and a jacket and I am still freezing. Jeff is sharing the room for the first night till a room become available, so I am out here at picnic table typing and it is freezing. This is a big problem about sharing rooms, dorms, or any accommodation with other people. I must be considerate in the morning and I normally leave the room. Dorms are impossible.

There is a dormitory in this Yogi Hotel and I think this is little silly or extremely cheap and dangerous in India. The dorm bed cost about 50 Rupees or 1 Dollars USA, and a single room is about double or 100 Rupees. So for one dollar the person risks having another traveler or the staff steal their valuables. This is not a good trade-off one dollar for security.

There are no lockers here so this is just stupid in my opinion. But some people are delusional that the manager, staff, and the world is safe from theft, or that in some places the people are good and other places they are bad. The logic goes that because a person either chooses to visit Yogi lodge, or because it is the Yogi Lodge everyone inside is honest.

Please stay at home if you think you can trust everyone in the world. I trust them all and put my own lock on the door. They have no temptation and I am safe. The world is safe as they are offered temptations. My computer has the value of 2 years wages in India for a simple worker.

India people are not much on petty theft, but they do lie a lot, or will tell you anything if it is to their advantage. But this is true of most countries, but India is more of this way.


I am very excited and happy that my friend Jeff has arrived yesterday. We are going to travel to Nepal together and maybe other places after that, it is nice to have partners of sorts and not be alone. Asia is better as 2 people, although it would be better to trade him for the French Girl in the Hotel, he does speak American English and this will be good for my language skills as Asia is destroying my ability to speak English.

Just taking American English is relaxing and makes me feel better. I now truly believe there is 3 major types of English.

1. American

2. Great Britain

3. India

Each has its distinct characteristics.

I am not sure why I feel happy? I think it is because he has similar political, world, and women views of me and I do not have to walk on eggshells when expressing myself. Most of the Americans I encounter in my travelers have left the USA because they hate the USA. This applies to the younger travelers, while older travelers have become adults. Some of these thoughts of mine must be more about the idea of separating adults from children. I have not been able to ever make a clear distinction with age. Old people can act like children and children can act like adults. Age just does not help, but sometime the older calm down and relax the battle.

Well, it is great to have a fellow sane American on the path for a while. He is studying to be a Doctor and is quite full on in many ways, but the energy is good.

KA KA KA KATHMANDU - Hobo in Kathmandu Nepal

Words and music by Bob Seger

I think I'm going to Katmandu.
That's really, really where I'm going to.
If I ever get out of here,
That's what I'm gonna do.
K-K-K-K-K-K Katmandu.
I think that's really where I'm going to.
If I ever get out of here,
I'm going to Katmandu.

I got no kick against the west coast.
Warner Brothers are such good hosts.
I raise my whiskey glass and give them a toast.
I'm sure they know it's true.
I got no rap against the southern states.
Every time I've been there it's been great.
But now I'm leaving and I can't be late
And to myself be true.

That's why I'm going to Katmandu.
Up to the mountain's where I'm going to.
And if I ever get out of here,
That's what I'm gonna do.
K-K-K-K-K-K Katmandu.
That's really, really where I'm going to.
If I ever get out of here,
I'm going to Katmandu.

I've got no quarrel with the Midwest.
The folks out there have given me their best.
I've lived there all my life; I've been their guest.
I sure have loved it, too.
I'm tired of looking at the TV news.
I'm tired of driving hard and paying dues
I figure, baby, I've got nothing to lose.
I'm tired of being blue.

That's why I'm going to Katmandu.
Up to the mountain's where I'm going to.
If I ever get out of here,
That's what I'm gonna do.
K-K-K-K-K-K Katmandu.
Take me, baby, cause I'm going with you.
If I ever get out of here,
I'm going to Katmandu.

I ain't got nothin' 'gainst the east coast.
You want some people where they got the most!
And New York City's like a friendly ghost;
You seem to pass right through.
I know I'm gonna miss the USA.
I guess I'll miss it every single day.
But no one loves me here anyway!
I know my plane is due.

The one that's going to Katmandu.
Up to the mountain's where I'm going to.
If I ever get out of here,
That's what I'm gonna do.

K-K-K-K-K-K Katmandu.
Really, really, really, going to.
If I ever get out of here,
If I ever get out of here,
If I ever get out of here,
I'm going to Katmandu.


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