About 5 AM on Saturday 20th of November 2004

I moved this to the top, because Mom always says to say the good things first and the bad things second, although I do not normally think in terms of good and bad, but consider a both good. Therefore, to me good and bad is just normal, and I do not avoid what I do not like.

BUT Essaouira has one of the best market areas I have ever seen, like a great place to film a Raiders of the Lost Ark movie and you can see Indiana Jones running through this market easily knocking over cart, being chased by…. 2 + 2 = 4

I got it, Lucas, George (1944- ) - PRODUCER OF RAIDERS OF LOST ARK

Born 1944 is the perfect hippy age, he is the perfect age to understand Morocco, Jim Hendrix, Bob Marley, and the whole Crosby, Stills, Nash and Young thing with the Marrakech Express trips, drugs, the James Michener the Drifters etc and so forth. I am just some guy picking up the pieces and way to young to really understand, although old enough to have heard some of the noise.

The market here is special, not what they sell, but the layout, and the whole feeling of being inside a clay brink dusty, Middle East market and fort. This is the medina and walled and ancient part, although I suspect the walls have fallen down a few time over the years, and presently they are re-constructed to be good for tourist and such. Adobe brick is what make a TELL in the end or one of them tall mounds like in Arbil Iraq. This is not a Tell and does not resemble that type of situation, the whole area here is flat, with some smaller hills as you enter the city.


I wonder if it the temperature, the altitude, or the relation to Spain, but for sure the Mexicans and the Moroccans are similar. In both the countries you will meet either a person that is extremely honest, or will cheat you, if they speak English then normally they are going to cheat or very rich and do not need to cheat, because they have already done the job. But for sure, both the Moroccan and Mexicans will nab you money for no reason. I am still learning the money, and I have had them say one price and grab coins out of my hand now five times at least. This is not big money, just dimes and quarters, but they now have my attention, and I do not show them any money because the greed is almost exactly the same as Mexico.

Now some would call the poverty, I call it greed, poverty is more difficult to see, and normally real poor people is afraid of a rich person like me, but remember I am always rich in a poor country or where they think they are poor. I am not sure the level of bums here is up there with India or the percentage is about the same. There are fewer people here than in India so the bum numbers are lower, but there are some real bums here.

I saw a man yesterday that had natural dreads; this is maybe the fourth of fifth person in my life where I thought the person had natural dreads. Most people that have the knots or long Bob Marley type twisted hair and such; actually make their hair this way, but teasing, twisting, or making it knotted. However, a person that does not comb there hair and encourages it can have knot balls, like a dog, or maybe what can be on the tail of a horse. But when humans do not cut their hair, do not comb their hair, do not wash their hair, it gets a natural twisted, mangy, knotted, matted look that is considered a dread, and a pure dread by the dread specialist or advocates. Most people with dreads are dirty in my opinion and being clean and having dreads is difficult, I would say it makes totally sense that Bob Marley was here in Essaouira, I have no fond thoughts about Bob Marley and see him as trouble for the world, not as any type of savior.

But back to the natural dreads, this guy has bunched up natural dreads. Therefore, I believe that in the natural state of a human being and animal, the hair of the human normally dreads. Therefore, dreads are the normal hair of the Stone Age man, and I would say this man probably smelled the same.

5:30 am and Morning Prayer has started, this guy is a lot better squall or chant than the guy in Tangiers is, this is very good because I have to listen to it for a few weeks. I like to listen to them sing in the southern Thailand city of Pak Bara, but most of the time the loud speaker and such is not so pretty but more of an alarm clock you could not refuse.


The other people I have met here and there in Morocco from Europe have been about five times more civilized, mentally aware, or culturally clear of why and what they are doing traveling. I know there is a surf culture here also, and who knows what they are up to, but that has its only sub-culture within the backpacker community, but over-all the backpacker types, probably excluding the Rasta wanna-bees have taken a few jumps up on the Cultural Revolution chain.

Bottom line is the other western people are smarter travelers than the ones I have met in Europe, the ones in Europe are just normal Joe Blow that drink and party their way around the place, it does take more courage I suppose to travel through Morocco and this separates the brain waves. The travelers seem similar to South American travelers.


There seem to be about 10 foreigners on the beach yesterday, and I saw ZERO bikinis. The day was very hot and nice, and I was there at three in the afternoon, so even the drunks have no excuse to not visit the beach. I am almost positive the beach he is empty most of the winter months. There is a surfer beach this French girl instructed me about 15 kilometers away from here and I will go explore it soon. I hope I find this girl again, as I lost the stupid little piece of paper she gave me with the name, I am hoping it will surface in my piles of junk in my room. Something like Sida…

I will surf around on the internet today to see what I can find the only place where there is more than one or two backpacker in one place has been in the Internet café. I only saw one hotel, which is where I am moving today that has any numbers of western people. I would say all in all this place is one lonely place, not a great place for people to visit in winter.

I am not a lonely type man, although for sure some people would assume this because I do complain about being lonely, but if I was really a lonely or in need of talk, I would not even venture to be here, I would have staid in Madrid with the party people. But maybe I do like some real authentic travelers so I am in the right place, excluding the confused ones that are probably here for cheap weed.


I was very wrong, I thought that this place would be a great getaway for the Europeans in the winter, it may be on the Christmas vacation, but so far, unless I am missing something they are not coming to what is supposed to be one of the best beaches in Morocco. There are more older people here than there are younger, so more in the ages of 35-55 and less in the 20-30 most of the young ones between 20-25 look like surf or Rasta people.

The popular way to come is in an old van or big semi-camper like vehicle. I am not sure which brand is prevalent, as I am not really able to tell you the names. I have for sure seen the Renault, but who can be sure. I am almost positive the Renault is French and would maybe be good in Morocco because at cultural base this place is French, then Arab, or they copy the French ways, so probably have copied the French cars.


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