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Sunday, August 31, 2003
LOOKING FOR FREE HOSTING
I purchase the doman name for the Mosul English Teachers.
visitmosul.org.
They are doing lots now, and appear to be on the move.
I am looking for Free Hosting for them on a paid server. Not the freebies.
Or a donation to pay for the hosting for one year. About 120 Dollar for one year.
BORN AGAIN BOB ... Sort of makes us look weak.
Theres is this man from the hills around Los Angelos, California here in Baghdad.
I call him "Born Again Bob" He is a good guy and I call him this to his face. But he
does say a lot you need to be born again. So I am just repeating. He is a missionary.
I told him that I am glad he is here. Mainly because I do not see the Missionaries in the dodgy or
really remote area. He said they are there. I said, "But Bob, I have been there, and they are not."
He thinks that all the world is there if he is there. Sort of normal logic.
But in the end he does make me feel a little on the weak side. He just goes out and leaves
anyway he wishes more less. He does not have rod to protect him, so it must be something else.
I was recommending we put him out front of us, and he thought that was OK.
He is going to Basra today also to meet a friend in Kuwait. Bob is a little intense and having
2 hearing aids, plus being 76 does not help. But his intent is good. I may not like all people
and disagree sometime, but if their intentions are good. I am happy.
Bob has been everywhere. Maybe twice. Lots of stories if you will listen to the extra.
CHRIS ARRIVES TO BAGHDAD
A British guy arrived in Baghdad yesterday.
A good traveler and experience in most problems. His name I am pretty sure is Chris.
He has done a lot of the Middle East and was following for about 2 weeks on the Thorntree before coming.
We was having a discusion about family and I told him that my family and especiall my Mother and Father
have learned too well how to follow me around on the internet. He had a simple solution,
"He did not tell his parents!"
I do this sometime. Go to a place and tell afterwards.
I did this on the Babylon trip the other day.
I have no worries on Chris he is experienced, and know the ropes.
Now there is just random bad luck to deal with.
To me a good and seasoned traveler should be able to go to any city. Not speak the language.
Change money and get a CHEAP hotel without really thinking very had.
Chris did this in Mosul. Gave me the card of the Hotel to put on the Hotel Blog.
If a person needs exact hotel address's and exact prices and exact this and exact that.
Stay away from the dodgy countries like Iraq, Iran, and Colombia, etc. There are lots.
Most danger is of theft and not personal danger. I consider Costa Rica the most likely place
to have your backpack stolen. Mexico the most corrupt so far. Bolivia is second.
Thailand the most sex for money place. Danger is funny though. Not as easy to explain.
Lima Peru at 2 in the Morning. Belize City about anytime of the day. Not Caye Caulker.
There is a need to know what specific problems are in every country. I am not sure the guidebooks
alway give the best advice on danger. I would probably say theft is the biggest problem. Not getting killed.
But CHRIS is here in BAGHDAD IRAQ
I say the Backpacker come first.
The tourst follow, and the backpackers leave.
Maybe the next paradise... Nah
4:00 IN MORNING HOBO
I had to get up very early so that I can publish the rest of my photos.
Would not want to lose the computer without having the photo of graves published.
Plus the early bird beats the "Ali Babba"
I find that thieves and problems do not happen in the early morning like 8:00
Most are either between Midnight and 5:00 or after about 10:00 in the morning.
So the safest time of the day is probably sunrise till about 9:30 AM.
This is the time the drunks and thieves are wandering home. Good fun to watch.
WHAT IS A HOBO?
A Hobo is a person that travels to work.
A tramp is a person that travels and won't work.
A bum is a person that will neither travel or work.
Ergo - I travel to work.
HOW MUCH TIME I WORK ON BLOG, WEBPAGE AND NEWSLETTER
dear andy, overall sounds like you're having lots of good fun and much
adventure in Iraq Andy. the time and energy you spend on your blog and
newsletter seems like a lot of work! well, if what you're doing ever
feels like work it seems like the best job in the world:-) how much of your
time per day do you spend on this???
xo
natasha
ANSWER:
I spend about 1/2 hour a day on Blog.
I spend about 1 Hour per day on webpage.
I spend about 10 hours a week on the Newsletter or maybe more.
So I say in the end. I spend about 3-4 hours a day on the computer.
I think you can see that my spelling and grammar is an indication of the speed.
WORK - hmm.
I would say easy work and not really work on the blog. Just me talking. If you call talking work.
Webpage and newsletter is work.
But I be Hobo. I am trying to travel from place to place looking for work.
That be Hobo. We travel for work and money.
HOBO RATES DANGER OF IRAQ
I would call Iraq as of September 1, 2003 as an ADVENTURE TRAVEL COUNTRY - READ NEWSLETTER FOR EXPLANATION
http://www.hobotraveler.com/newsletterhobo118.php
READER COMMENT ON EYES WIDE OPEN AMERICAN
AN EXCHANGE OF EMIALS:
HOBO WROTE:
...
The water in Iraq is exellent.
Actually it one of the modern countries for me.
I am usually in a lot worse place.
The heat though is bad. But dry and clean.
There is a smog though in Baghdad.
Thanks a lot.
Andy HoboTraveler.com
READER WROTE
Hi Andy,
That's great to hear. I guess there is a lot of disinformation going
around. The Iraqi people have enough to deal with, without bad water.
Isn't the heat terrible? I have to admit that I hope I am never that
hot again! If I get to travel in that part of the world again, it will
definitely be in winter! I got back to Sydney and it was 7 degrees
centigrade - a bit of a shock to the system.
Anyway Andy, keep up the amazing lifestyle, you are incredible. It's
great to hear of Americans who have their eyes wide open to the rest of the
world.
Cheers,
Susan, Australia
ANSWER:
I can tell you that about 20-1 peoples emails and ordinary comments from
other travelers would disagree with you that I have my eyes wide open.
They call me naive on a regular basis. I wish I felt naive.
Most people will say a person is naive, or stupid if they disagree with them.
Sort of chidlike in the end. But thanks a lot
IRAQ IS A BYO - BRING YOUR OWN DATE
The sell liquor and beer so that is not needed.
But I think traveling in the middle east would be better with a date or a friend.
It is also a "Carry your own" country.
I have label countries either you carry or you do not carry a lot in my newsletters.
I always recommend you carry. This is toilet paper. I do not understand.
I can stay in a 4 star hotel and they do not feel the need to provide.
In the end the simple complications of life are the most taxing on the nerves
and patience. Iraq is an extremely extremely easy country to travel.
The buses and taxis are cheap and easy. All transportation is easy.
The country is small and the Baghdad is in the center. Sort of a wagon wheel and
all revolves around Baghdad. Reminds me of Costa Rica and San Jose.
But the theft is lot worse in San Jose Costa Rica.
SO MANY PHOTOS
I am sitting here in the Palestine Hotel publishing or sending photos to my webpage. I have taken
so many photos that it is going to take about 3 hours or 9 dollars. In Erbil that would 3 dollars.
So I am in the high rent district.
What is interesting is to observe the individuals that come in and use the internet.
There is a woman that I have seen the last few time from TIME magazine and a Boston..Maybe Globe.
I am not sure. She lives in Europe or something. Not clear. There was just 2 soldiers here.
A man from Colorado that is trying to be a carpetbagger. I told him he read Gone With the Wind too much.
It flew over his head and was wasted ammo. But he is buying or has knowledge of scrap metal here.
The locals thieves are robbing all the metal and electrical lines. So there is a smuggling of copper and metal
out the country. When I drive by a scrap yard with the taxi driver he will also point over and say,
"Ali Babba" or Thieves.
There is some raping going on by the western world. All countries. Lots of French, Japanese here.
But the rape is a share venture and I think they consider it polite to not call it rape of the country.
But here I am, and the one guy ask or said I could meet a lot of interesting people upstairs.
Sounds like fun, and lots of crap. But I like to stay anonymous and I get enough talking with the press
in my own hotel and really like to have them think of me as a nobody. Which I am, but I like the ability
to take photos of them at will and make fun at will. Sort of anonymous and under the radar.
I have them in my sites and they do not know.
TECHIES ONLY - PROXY BLOCK
I am in a new internet cafe. The proxy is blocking my FTP.
I move now back to the Palestine Hotel. No problem there.
THE GAME PLAN, IF NO CALL AUDIBLES
Bus it to Basra. Hang around a day or two. Publish my newsletter.
Got to port. Look at ships.
Take a train up the center of Iraq to Baghdad. Stay a night or two.
Catch another train to Mosul. Stay a night or go to Turkey by way of the corner of Syria.
ANOTHER DAY IN BAGHDAD
HOT - Harrrar!
But OK. Got into the Military areas today. A Soldier in a Hummer drove us around to look at
lots of interesting things. The crossed Swords was excellent. I took maybe 100 plus photos
today and now am overwelmed with photos to publish. I am very excited.
Tommorrow Basra by bus.
TRAVEL ACCEPTANCE IN IRAQ - WHEN YOUR NUMBER IS CALLED
We are moving around Baghdad and Iraq almost without worries. No travel at night,
but there is little problem during the day. It seem very safe, but we are always remembering.
When your number is called. It is called. No way to stop it.
So I believe I have accepted and the Soldiers appear to have accepted. Do not worry.
The cards are being played. Accept.
But then again some Soldier said the other day,
"Best friend, worst enemy!"
He was talking about the USA!
Saturday, August 30, 2003
READER COMMENT ON ANTI-USA BLOGS
Do what you want Andy!! I been reading a Anti U.S. blog from Bagdad
and I was wondering if its lies or the truth!!! If you go Be careful and
god Bless!!
Bill
Bryan ,Ohio
Hello,
95 percent is lies in other blogs.
But I am not sure they know they are lying.
Life is about being able to see the world from all angles and take a photo.
They think I am lying and I think they are lying. Hard to prove either way.
But trust me. They have more money then me. Misery sells better then the truth.
I am here to have fun. They are really on a mission to make the world a worst place.
Glass half full or half empty crap.
Life is Good.
IT COULD BE VERY DANGEROUS FOR ME
I try to keep the comments about women to a minimun.
There are few women in the world that do not like these comments I make and
luckily they do not read English well.
THOUGHTS ON PLANS
I can go to Basra by train for 1000 Saddam Dinars. That is about 50 cents USA.
This would be a nice and hot trip. All of Baghdad is very freindly to Americans. I am
sure it would be possible to find a few that do not like the USA if I really looked.
Most likely in the Palestine Hotel or in my Hotel. The more the learn, the less they know.
I am really finally not worried about this country. I am sure it there could be civil war.
But that is crap. They are not organized. Maybe lots of riot if the Clerics start telling them
to riot. It is their leadership. The leaders are not good people.
But Basra is close. 4-5 hours. I could take the bus down, and a train back. One man
is telling me that the train goes all the way to Turkey. But his is sort of old. Nice man
but gets his ideas a little confused. He is a Missionary. I am searching the right nickname.
Peter is calling him... "Born Again Bob" He means well. But it probably the Christian version
of a Zealot. He definitely talks about God. I got some great insight about Babylon from him.
He has been all over the world. This is really strange though. I have been in a lot of very
poor places. (Iraq is not on this list. It is rich) and most of the time ... No Missionaries.
But you go to a tourist trap. Missionaries. So Bob is a special Missionary to me.
Actually trying in the worst of worlds to do his job.
I will probably go to Basra, and back by Train. Just sounds too much fun.
But if not. I will go to Syria and up to Istabul. In the end. It is the same destination.
One already blazened and another not too sure. Life is Good.
Do not worry about Iraq. They will slowly sort themselve out. OR self destruct.
To me it a simple problem in the end. A religion made to function very well 2500 years ago.
A good plan for then and MTV and Music Videos will crack the church.
Who wants to remain the same and who wants to change.
OUTSIDE THE TARGET - I FOUND AN INTERNET CAFE OUTSIDE THE TARGET
I have been using the internet in the Palestine Hotel. Very easy and close. But today
I ventured down to another cafe. 1/2 the price and in some ways better. All guys though
and no girls like a normal Iraq culture. So good and bad. The Palestine hotel is normal 5 star
place that makes it like the western world. But I am outside the target zone of the terrorist.
It is not that friendly on the inside anyway. Just a bunch of Arab people sitting around. I almost
never see any western or Americans walking around. A few French and the Stars and Stripe News
people. but all in all. They must be hermits the normal westerner. OH well. Suppose they are on
assignment. I believe they never walk around in the normal areas. Therefore how would they
know what the normal people think? But on BBC I here them say,.... blah blah blah.
There was a pro ... chase down the killers march in front of the Hotel today.
A FRENCH GUY IN HOTEL FILMS INSIDE OF JAFA MOSQUE
There is a guy in the Hotel by the name of Raphael or something close.
He was inside the Mosque making a documentary of the new rulers of Iraq when
the sermon ended and he left the main area it exploded. His footage or film will
probably be on the world new tommorrow or tonight.
Friday, August 29, 2003
DID AND EMAIL COME BACK? PLEASE KILL THE VIRUS
The virus that is circling the globe is sending me over 200 emails per day. It completely filled my email box yesterday.
If you wrote and it came back. This is the reason. Please send again.
LIFE IS GOOD IN BAGHDAD
Hello,
I am surrounded by people that say they are in danger. I feel safer then anywhere I have been in Iraq.
The biggest danger so far is probably using the internet in the Palestine Hotel.
It is a target. I wonder why a person would live inside a target? But if they really wanted that feeling of danger, I could
take them to some places where they would be sure they were in danger. (Not in Iraq)
If a person is to die in Iraq. It is the same chance as getting in a car accident. If you do the wrong thing and are
in the wrong place. It is your time. Unless of course you volunteer to be a Target. I am hobo. Below the radar...
What was it like for me to see the graves. Spontaneous crying and I am not sure when or why I am wanting to cry still.
MASS MURDER GRAVE - IRAQ
I went to Babylon today. We learned of a mass murder grave 10 kilometers north of Babylon.
I suppose it is Gods will that I witnessed this, it was not mine at work.
The newsletter will have the photos and story. Subscribe at top of page. Follow link.

Thursday, August 28, 2003
MAN IS THIS READER CORRECT.
So I have just caught up on your letter/blog--I think it's great that you not miss Bagdad. Very interesting your impressions. I have been using your info for good reasons: passing on info about the electricity,etc. But it's hard for people to believe--much easier to follow what CNN or BBC or French TV shows--with nice pictures and camera angles to support their point of view, whether it's true or false makes no difference....
ANSWER: That is the problem. True of falses makes no difference.
I AM SURROUNDED BY THE ENEMY!
aaagh. There are reporters everywhere. I might get something on me.
Send soap and cleansers immediately so I came keep clean.
Make it industrial strength.
HAD LUNCH WITH THE OWNER OF THE AL FANAR
Hello,
The owner of the Al Fanar lived in England for about 20 years I think.
Speaks excellent English.
The hotel seem very safe and interesting.
I would recommend it. The place cost 20 dollars a night. Air conditioning. But only a color
television with BBC and CNN in the lobby. But that is good place to meet people.
Includes breakfast and either lunch or dinner. So food is good.
I am living high on the hobo.
TALKED TO A SOLDIER TODAY ON THE TANK
I ask him how the situation was in Baghdad.
He said when the first was here. There was a constant shooting of guns a them.
After the amnesty on the guns it slowed down.
So he said the number of shootings decrease slowly and consistently.
Now it is seldom.
Most of the gun shooting is celebrations. Someone gets married and shoots off guns.
So they go and investigate.
He was very relaxed and not worried about the guns.
Although he also said, and it the common opinion. That the organized attacks on troups
are not by the Iraqi people, but from all the outside countries that do not want Iraq to
be a democracy or part of a group that is friendly with the western world.
WHY I GOT UPSET AND THE DELAY ON GOING TO BAGHDAD
Well. I have asked Peter about 3 times and confirmed
that he says,
"I don't care."
He will live and probably get mad at me for this statement.
Most people will say and do anything. But they want you
to keep quiet about things. I told,
"You know Peter, I am absolutely dieing to tell them
about the 2 girls."
He says,
"Go ahead."
I thinks he is part of the Gentleman’s agreement that we
will edit out the really stupid and crass parts. And
sadly I do leave out a lot of the really juicy and crappy
parts of life. People get angry when you describe them
in real life with all their idiosyncrasies.
Here is the story of 2 Baghdad girls.
If you read the blog. You may remember when I said
a girl came in the Internet cafe in a world of no women
and was flirting with me. I said to Peter.
"There is a God Peter."
Now what happened is the night before we was to leave the
first time. The 2 girls returned to the Internet cafe.
The prettier one called me over with a wave of the hand.
The point their hand out, and pull down to do this.
Opposite of the USA.
I went over to talk with the two.
Peter eventually woke up and came over.
But a stroke of luck or God maybe giving me a path
away from temptation I ended up with the fat girl.
The one that was much prettier went with Peter.
We did not go anywhere really.
But in an Internet cafe there are a few things that people
are always doing. One is they are chatting with people.
The second in lots of countries is they may be playing
Video type war games. 15 percent only are just writing
emails. Most are surfing the sex site, or chatting up
in what is normally dirty talk or bridging on dirty talk.
So when you friend has a web cam and chats all the time.
The may be having this cyber sex thing.
I am in the 15 percent just writing emails.
Now with the Yahoo Messenger and Hotmail whatever you
call it, these are always running on the machine and I have
to shut them down. But I am the only one ever that is
making a webpage. That is not true. I have met about 4
people in 7 years. I am sure the owners of internet cafes
are doing this also.
These 2 women are chatter.
They have these digital conversations.
The type in a sentence,
and the person replies and types in a sentence
A Chat.
For me it is a form of mental masturbation.
I hate it. I consider it the most boring and absolutely
inane action on earth. That is when I am talking with
just anyone. An anonymous chat. But I have talked
with people that are my friends, and for business
it can be very good to have a cheap dialogue.
Especially when the person can type.
I can type.
The Baghdad girls could not top.
The one I was sitting next to, and she was wanting
to chat with a British boyfriend in Basra. I never
did learn exactly what relationship they had and
really do not care. She was a slut.
But I can type.
She can speak English very well.
She wants me to help her type.
I am going to keep this short as best I can a lot
of people are not going to think that having anything
to do with these women is proper. Remember please.
We would expect by custom and culture to meet only
girls that are very nice, young, unmarried. The married
ones would never even get close.
I can type, so she starts talking and goes.
Say this, say that... Blah Blah Blah.
I despise this. Am getting annoyed but sometimes I am
curious to see how stupid a situation can evolve.
She said to the guy,
"You remember BG?"
She typed in the BG.
She would push over when I could not understand.
I also could not see what I was typing very well.
She was in the seat behind the computer. I was to the right.
She says to me.
I had just sat down. Maybe within 5 minutes.
"You like BG?"
I think she is not saying BG. But I am not going
to sit around and correct this in the way she thinks.
I am in a Muslim country and it could be dangerous to
just very quickly jump to conclusions. I am fully aware
that all customs, taboos, and other things are always violated.
That in reality most countries that all the custom can
be violated in a moments notice. But I am not sure about this
Muslim country. It is not that Muslim because Saddam was the
devil and the head of the country. It is trickle down social
system in many ways. What he will do, then everyone else will
do.
But she is pushy. I do not mean she is polite and manners.
She is slut push. A girl that want to say what she
wants to say. I am sure many of you have no idea.
But the prostitutes in most countries are pushy.
"Mister. You want F@#ky F@#ky?"
She says and pushes. You know what that means.
"BG?"
I am thinking. She means BJ, and I do not want to correct.
Plus is that not steering the witness. If I draw the conclusions.
or start to guess. So I say,
"Tell me!"
She says,
"Blow job, do you want one?"
I sit there.. How shall I react. She is very pushy. I mean real real pushy.
I want to know for lots of reasons how stupid this situation is and
could be. This is sort of an aberration of the culture. I do not care
that there are no girls around in this culture. I would like some balanced
culture, and mostly I would like some girls around because I feel guilty.
When there are no girls around I feel like I am party to a conspiracy to
be a "Macho Jerk." So I feel safe when women are included. Plus men
are on the very stupid side of life most of the time.
So this girl get more direct. Why don't you get room in my Hotel?
I say why. I am in a very good hotel? She is frustrated like,
"You want a BJ, or not?"
( I am trying to keep this PG. Parental Guidance)
This whole conversation has the feeling of a hooker.
Nothing to do with love, she is pushy, and not feminine.
More of the trash of life. But there is a lot of trash in life
and if you want to learn culture. That is part of it.
Funny how I read guidebooks and they leave out 50 percent of any
culture. Oh well. Except for the USA and they make all the
movies about the trash of the culture. Sex and trash sells.
"Survivor Thailand" I apologize. I had never seen the show.
Please forgive me. The island is gorgeous.
OK. Back to the story.
She is reluctantly typing this trash in the computer.
She is chatting with a British guy in Basra that is doing work
or works for the Army or is a Soldier. I do not really know.
Plus who really cares?
She is talking about sex. Overtly or by innuendo. Just a bunch
of sex talk. Then she switches chat to another guy.
There is talk about a BJ in the car on the way to Jordan.
I am very thankful when this all ends.
Peter and Lumetaa come back. The girl next to me was Sarah.
That could be just and adopted name to resemble the western
world. Her mother came in to the internet cafe with her
in full Berka or whatever you call the tent they wear.
"Paklum in Thailand" The name changes by the language.
One word is NEVER correct. Sounds good on TV huh?
So I though she was Muslim.
They both say they are Christian.
"I think they have potty mouths."
I almost never see girls talk this bad.
But we go out the Internet cafe and stand in the street.
This is what they want us to do.
They want us to go to the Arbil Tower. Rent a room each of
us. They will go down to the lobby or restaurant at 12:30
just after midnight an meet us. Who knows what happened then.
We talk, and they talk, and we talk and finally we separate.
I am glad. I feel like I got something on me. Very sticky.
Peter is very excited. Now it is not my right in life to make
judgment for how another person acts or what they believe.
I am not going to get into conversations about how he looks
at love or women, or relationships. I will talk guy talk,
but I sort of let them talk and try to not discuss. People
get very very very angry if you tell them they are being
a little crazy in their concepts of love and sex.
Everyone is an expert on these subject.
But... He is relatively sane as best can be for a Limo driver
for movie stars, and football players etc. That does all sorts
of things in Limos. I guess he is sane. I suppose that is
debatable. He says,
"We stay...?"
He did not force me.
I am thinking about this situation.
We go over to the my hotel that has a great lobby area
and sit and talk for an hour. We both agree that going over
to the Arbil Tower Hotel at 11:00 at night and getting
a room is a little stupid. We are both consummate travelers
and paying for 2 rooms, even for girls is against the travelers
code of money. So this does not happen.
But I have a credo. That says,
"If something good is happening. Change your plans and seize
the opportunity. Do not let my plans and itinerary interfere
with what I say I am going to do to you or to myself."
I should not turn down opportunities.
But I have also agreed to go to Baghdad with Peter.
This is sort of a contract. Not a contract and he would say,
"Who cares."
But then again. If he reads this. He may never talk to me
again. He says who cares. But most really do.
But nonetheless. He has said he does not care. I will tell
him in two days, or if he ask, maybe I will not.
He says,
"I do not care." Live and die by these words.
But maybe I will accept or agree that I have made comments
in my blog that he knows and reads a little that I commented.
If I do not go full hog and say with enthusiasm he may just
get lazy and not read. So as this works itself down the log
he will miss it. Is this manipulative? You bet.
But, he does not care. Bullshit.
If the whole midnight meeting falls apart. The backup deal
with the girls is for us to move the next day and meet at 9:30
for NOT breakfast. We cannot be seen in public with women.
Plus they are with their Muslim mother. Trust me it is even
more stupid then I am writing. I am leaving out most.
So the next morning. I am frustrated and the plan for going
to Baghdad has been delayed again. The Farid driving his
car deal delayed us or me 3 days. The Mosul does nothing Scholars
delayed me. I am feeling sort of weak. Like who cares.
I go to the internet cafe. I feel like the readers of my
newsletter does not care. Very few emails about what I consider
a killer (The electricity in Iraq) I am still waiting for
anyone to say anything. NOTHING. Like who cares if USA
Soldiers get killed. I did a lot of work to collect them
photos of electricity around the world.
No one has even said..."Boo!"
So here I am trying a little to do the right thing and
show a few problems of the world. No one cares. Iraq is full
of problems. I try to earn a couple of buck by selling Postcards.
Nobody even buys one. I have gotten just a few donations for
the newsletter. The numbers of subscribers are not really growing.
I could go on and on. I find that if I am not taking photos of
sex or stupid shit, or telling stories like this, the people
and my readers are full of apathy. The want to hear about the
sex of France. Make it sound wonderful so they can have an excuse
to go.
I write the letters to my readers.
They are below if you are new to this blog or log.
I am still adding the new ones as they come in.
But I got a really big response in reality.
I am very happy here. This is what I like. People getting
involved. Trust me. I almost left that morning.
Why go to Baghdad? Get killed. For what.
I DID NOT COME TO BAGHDAD FOR MONEY FOLKS.
You have proven to me on a regular basis. You want this for free.
I am suppose to let you read all this for free.
So I am now in Baghdad.
But that that is not the end of the story of the girls.
I planned on Tuesday morning to leave.
I write the newsletter asking for opinions.
Yes or no on Baghdad. This was not a tally.
I did not take numbers into consideration. I wanted to have
people tell me good reasons. I heard some really good
and excellent opinions on both sides.
But when the one man used the word.
"Witness" it put me over the edge. Someone does need to
witness the bullshit of the world. An honest critic is needed.
I am sure you think I am full of it a lot, but I am honest
as you will ever get on the subject of Baghdad.
I go to the internet.
Write the email to my readership.
Peter comes in and talks and talks about how he is moving
to the Arbil Tower, and he will meet me at 9:30 with the girls.
I just sit and type and listen. I have already paid for my
hotel for one more night and made that decision already,
I say,
"I paid for my room, but that is good for you and your threesome
concept." He had told me of a few encounter...Full Stop.
I do not want to make a person feel guilty.
Especially when they have no way to escape me, sort of abusive in
my opinion. You are reading this of your own free will.
OK. He goes and moves his bags. From the 3 dollar hotel to the
15 dollar 5 star hotel.
I go back to the hotel. Lie around and get mad at CNN for lying.
I would be getting mad at BBC, but BBC is not on now. The hotel
regulates the stations and it is their choice. CNN and BBC are
the only English stations available. I sit around and think.
I am planning my trip back to Turkey and to the beach.
I am the hell out of this shithole racist country.
(The hate Jews and Israel people and basically anyone that
is not from their tribe. Me included.)
That is not true totally, but for 2 percent. Very true and
every bombing proves it. The other just agree to do nothing.
And by doing nothing agree that they can and should kill
people. If you do nothing when a person is being abusive.
You make the gentleman’s agreement that this is OK.
Like listening to a joke about X and not saying anything.
Everyone believes you agree.
It is what I did with Peter. I did not say anything.
So he thinks or thought I agreed.
I am not going to get upset about a guy wanting to shag.
This is natural and the human animal.
I lay around in the Hotel. Wait for some replied I hope
to come in and help me clarify what to do.
I go back to the internet cafe. The day is sort of wasted.
I am OK, and ready to go to Turkey.
I am reading the emails and thinking. Trying to think what
to do. The guy on the "Witness" was one of the first to reply.
We are on the more or less same time. While the USA is 9 hours
behind. Europe is the same more or less.
Peter and the 2 girls come into the internet cafe come in
and want to know what I am doing. They are pushy. I say,
let me talk with Peter. No one respects this, and they keep
asking. I finally say. Have some respect. Peter is doing the
same. He has no respect for this. I walk back to his hotel
with him and we talk while he get his bag to move into the
internet cafe. He is, and has already made up this excuse
that I am having computer problem. I have not disagreed.
I really do not care what they think. I explain to Peter
that I am not happy and not sure what to do. Maybe I just
go back to Turkey and forget this crap. I have not read many
letter yet, and am 75 percent in my mind on the way to Turkey.
Peter is thinking only about his Peter, and wants me to help.
I say Peter, "You are only wanting to get laid."
He talks about all the quirks of this situation. It could be
just the fact that they are using him to pay for the day’s tourist
attractions. We part and agree that he will say that I have
computer problem, or whatnot.
They go off for the day. I go through the day in a quagmire
of making a decision. By the end of the night I have changed
my mind and thought. I am brave. I am capable. I am able.
I am honest. It is my responsibility to do the right thing.
It is my responsibility to witness this event in history.
It is my responsibility to do the right thing. It is just
the right thing to do.
So what am I suppose to say to you readers.
Getting laid or someone else getting laid has something to
do with my decisions. Sorry people. But that is the ugly
truth. I think that the Iraqi people are the most loving
and generous people I have ever encountered. They love
the USA for the most part and it is a "No Pay" zone.
They will give and help you in anyway they can.
But you cannot have the idea or support Israel.
I support Israel and the Palestine’s. I support both.
Not just one side.
I will not take sides to the point where one side can
win their war and exterminate the others. So I am in harms
ways and am not a normal traveler that will feed them or
flatter them by saying what they want to hear.
The story is still going on.
Peter comes into the Internet cafe that night with the girls
I know he wanted to get a haircut, but he said he was not
going to until after Iraq, so he did not look like a soldier.
Iraq is very safe if you stay away from danger and do not
ask or beg for danger. (Drive around in a Caravan)
He comes in and he has a new haircut. It looks real good
and makes him look younger. He is 42. I am not excited
because it is very short and looks more like a soldier.
I am with him and do not want to get mistaken for CIA or
a soldier. I do not look like a soldier. Hair is too long
and I am too old. But this is normal. So just me being me.
This is Peter wanting to be Peter. With this haircut, so
I do not think it is bad. He is just wanting to look like
Peter. He walks away.
I later leave my machine. Walk over to where Peter is
helping Lumetaa to chat. The chubbier girl has found another
man, and I am very happy. A Kurdish guy wanting to nail
the Christian. (All Kurdish are Islamic)
OK. I say to her.
"Good haircut, very good job."
She is nodding and happy. He turns his head toward her
a little. I see the back. I say,
"Turn around."
I go,
"Peter your head is cut like a bowl. You have the white
of you skin showing. She had cut it so short that you
look for sure like a Soldier from the back."
Now this took a lot of work. His hair was pretty long in
back. There was not line before to repeat. She made this line.
I am pissed. What bullshit. He let her cut his hair like a soldier
because his dick was screaming sex. What stupidity. You cannot
just get a haircut like this in 2 minutes. It would take a half
hour and people in the 5 star hotels have mirrors. This is bullshit.
I am now traveling with a guy from the CIA. Every step I take is
with a possible and probably a soldier.
He does the extremely stupid statement. I do not care.
Then other crazy stuff. I am trying to get him to accept.
Peter you look like a Soldier. Why. He says,
"I do not care."
I am thinking you self-centered egotistical bastard.
You do not even think about me. I am with you asshole.
I have had multiple letters saying to not hang around with soldiers.
I agree with them in many ways.
It is really dangerous. I do not have a gun.
I have no deterrent. I am totally defenseless depending on my wit.
This is totally witless.
I go back to my room and do not berate or talk more.
I get up in the morning at 4:30. Peter has already said,
"If I am getting some, I may stay."
I know that he is selfish and he will only do what is best for
Peter. This is normal for travelers. Traveling is a selfish thing.
We do everything for ourselves. He says he has done over 100 countries.
I think he may have. But some pieces are missing.
I wake up and think. If we are driving down the road in a taxi.
A car pulls up along side and has a gun. Everyone in Iraq
has a gun. They will see Peter and think. We rob or kill them.
I think to myself that it is time to ditch him. He is just to
irresponsible for me in Iraq. But he is expecting me to go with him
and has done a modicum of work to do that.
I am ready to go at 5:45. I am packed. Knowing that his culture is
British. The girls wanted to drink. Most British people drink like
fish. He was saying already about later, after breakfast. I had
already drawn the line. I am leaving at minimal of 7:00 and really
wanted to leave at 6:00. I sit down and write 2 notes.
One to leave at the desk of my hotel.
One to leave at the desk of his hotel
Saying.
It is 5:45. I am leaving.
The haircut and the girls were a bad decision.
The girls go back to Baghdad on Thursday
I have 2 of them. I want him to find one of them.
You can NOT depend upon a hotel to give you a note.
But you have a better chance with 2 hotels.
So maybe he will find the note.
I leave my hotel. Leave the note on the reception
of the Shireen Palace. The boys are sleeping on the floor
of the lobby. Normal crap. 4 Stars.
I go to the Arbil Tower. The reception guy is awake.
I say,
"Pete" point at telephone on the desk.
"Britannica"
The boy is slow in the brain. There is only one westerner
in the hotel. I am probably looking for a westerner.
I keep pushing. This takes 5-10 minutes.
I finally say,
"Peter"
The desk writes down the name in Arabic letter.
The do not write down "Peter" they write something that looks
like this
!#$#%$%
I am looking down at the list of people.
I was under the impression that he was in room 510.
That is what he told me.
The boy finally dials something in the 100 ranges.
Now I was in room 138 on the fourth floor of the Shireen Palace.
So who know. Life is not logical.
Peter picks up. He is not hung-over. I say I am ready.
I in some ways want to ditch him. I in some ways want to
record his haircut so you cannot think I am just another
asshole traveler. He gets ready and we leave. I take a photo
and keep the one note in my pocket. He has no clue how
close I came to ditching him, but
"He does not care." and I am sure he does not. It is his nature.
But I care, and think on how I would feel to get ditched
on the way to Baghdad. It is a statement. And not a good one.
But he has told me at least 30 times in the last few days.
"I do not care."
Fine. You die. Then I do not care.
But in the end. I do not ditch him, and I go against and good
logic and advice. But I also have one last escape. If there
is not a large bus. I can still ditch him. I think he is
afraid, although he is never and will never admit it, but
he does not now want to go in the taxi. He knows that is dangerous.
But there is a BIG bus, with air. Not good, but A/C.
Pete does not have any Saddam Dinars. This is also irresponsible.
Exchanging money could be extremely dangerous. We do not know.
We are told that the whole world hates the Americans.
Even though the contrary is always the case. In Mosul and in
all of Kurdistan. But it is still possible that the world is
totally different in Baghdad.
I took a photo at the desk of the back of his head.
I have a few photos of the back of his head before.
Here is a photo of the back of his head.
Here is a photo of the bus.
I did not take a photo of the girls.
I saw them mostly in the night, and it could be dangerous
for them. They are trying to F##$ the soldiers. That is
definitely trying to aid and help the Americans. That is one
really huge problem. Anybody that I would photograph and put
on the webpage in the worst case scenario could get killed.
If I prove they like the USA. The could get killed by Saddam
or people from any of these Arab and Moslem countries around
that wants anyone that disagrees or support this war to be
quiet. They have done a good job so far, and being that my
webpage is just small in comparision to CNN. They would be
safe, but there is still a chance. I do care. I do not want
to put anyone in danger for gain or fun or money. Maybe myself,
but not others. Note that the soldiers are already in danger.
Pete and me are in Baghdad.
Peter still does not care.
I am happy I got to get all this off my chest and tell you
the complete story. Even if it is only about sex and getting
in the way, or becoming a possible problem. Peter is basically
a good guy, but the haircut thing was him putting himself
in harms way for his Peter. Note as a final answer.
He did not get laid. So he was willing to leave.
He sat around in his room with the two girls all the afternoon
romping on the bed. I guess the did show him their...?
The top part.
So in the end all this crap and he did not even shag them.
When life is more stupid then a movie.
I am sitting here on the 7th floor of a hotel.
The A/C is running. I am typing away on my computer.
I have mini bar fridge in my room.
The swimming pool of the Palestine Hotel is directly below me
and a talk is over to the right. I am basically surrounded
by a tanks and soldiers. Sounds safe. But not really.
There is always the way outside chance of a suicide bomber
on a mission to blow up this foreigners hotel. I would think
if they are smart. They would go for the Palestine Hotel.
It is a soft target, and would convince all the free press
to stay away. Mostly the rich press in that hotel.
I am in the Hotel Al Fanar where all the "Human Shields"
stayed. The did not bomb on this side of the river. The human
shields were on the safe side of the river... hehehe
I guess they did not do their job.
I am safe and very happy I came. I will have to work very
hard to get to the people of Iraq. I am with all the idiot
reporters that hide in the hotel and wait for some action to
happen. But they feel they can say,
"The Iraq people think this, and feel this!"
What bullshit. I am in a full on tourist area.
Full of people that will tell me anything I want to hear.
With a guy down below in front of the Palestine Hotel
selling Snuff, Sex, and torture films of Saddam and his
sons for 1 dollar USA per CD.
Andy the HoboTraveler.com in Baghdad, Iraq
Life is Good.
But life right now is on the more stupid side. I will do my
best to find some normal people that do not want to talk to
me that do not want to be famous. That are not crazies.
Just normal people on the street and see what they think.
Plus keep my eyes peeled on the swimming pool.
To see if any Babes show up.
The bus from Arbil to Baghdad
Palestine Hotel
Army Tank
Swimming Pool
Beggar girl Professional they tell me. Beggar.
Wednesday, August 27, 2003
SAW MY FIRST TANK - BAGHDAD
Hello,
I saw my first tank here.
I have not seen a Camel yet.
Andy HoboTraveler.com in Baghdad
HOBO IN BAGHDAD
Hello,
I am in Baghdad. The trip was not eventful. Just a big bus of Kurdish and Arab people going to Baghdad.
Cost 5000 Saddam Dinars for 5 hour trip or about 2.50 Dollars USA.
We are in the Al Fanar Hotel me and Peter. It cost 20 dollars the night and is on the inside of the barbwire
and tanks that surround a large area here. Very safe, but full of Foreigners. Will be hard to see the normal
people from this location. I am using the internet in the Palestine Hotel. Cost is trip of Arbil. But this must be a 4-5 star
place with a swimming pool.
Tuesday, August 26, 2003
I GO
The guy that said someone needs to WITNESS got to me.
I was reminded that I have an incomplete mission to understand why?
George Bush senior once said, "We need be be good Stewards."
I needed to go look up the word, but he was correct.
Life is Good.
(I will continue to add the new comment as they come in.)
Edmund Burke
"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing."
Sorry Mom, but the Gods do protect me. OK. I am an expert Hobo Traveler.
If I get killed. Remember. I am uncontrollable. I make my own decisions.
This completely my responsibility.
OPINIONS OF READERS ABOUT WHETHER I SHOULD CONTINUE
I am vacillating on going to Baghdad. Mostly because this is not fun anymore. Not the danger.
THREE READER COMMENT SECTIONS BELOW:
1. Neutral. Opinions but it is up to me.
2. NO GO
3. GO
I did not edit, except to protect emails and last names.
NEUTRAL COMMENT ON GOING TO BAGHDAD - READER COMMENTS - UN-EDITED
NEUTRAL
I am reminded of a quote a wise person shared with me
recently..(ha!)
" All journeys have secret destinations of which the
traveler is unaware."
-Martin Buber
In life you make committments and you put forth your best
effort. But you must be watchful and see what shakes out.
Watch to see if the universe supports what you are up too.
Watchfulness and flexibility are as important as commitment
to a goal. You don't have to close the door on it ever
happening. It just may not be the right time. Don't force
it.
There's my 2 cents.
Good luck and godspeed to your next destination, whether
you are aware of it or not.
Mark McMahon
P.S.: I'm stealing your shit. (With credit where credit is
due...) Watch for my Adventure Alert: Who wants to go to
Cuba?
----------------------------
i remember you saying.. insights... intuition.... instincts.... i guess you could go from there... if i was there with you i could help a little more to make up your mind...
peace, love, and happiness to you! i have a feeling you'll be around in a few more days...and if something happens then you won't have to deal with all the people that think you're crazy, and they'l find someone else to mess with their minds! hee hee!
casey form mn.
----------------------------
I am not sure if you promissed, but even if you did don't go unless
your heart is in it
Johnny J
Don't go unless you want to go. Forget about the fact that you
promissed us.
----------------------------
Andy,
This is very simple. If you want to go to Baghdad then go, if you
don't want to have lost your reason to go, then dont go. Why are you
asking people their opinions? It's your life. Hugs, Yvey
------------------------------
DO NOT GO TO BAGHDAD - READER COMMENTS - UN-EDITED
DON'T GO!!
Andy,
screw the sand devils,if they cant make up their own
minds about people and wars over the past 5000
years,then why should you be so concerned,go to the
beach and enjoy.
was that bagdad or jus bad-dag no reason to waste your
time or money going to a place the neither you or they
want to be..
if lifes not a beach and the beach is not full of
friendly women,FORGET IT.....Bob B in Iquitos
------------------------------------------
Hi Andy,
I say forget about Bagdad. The heat alone is enough to give it up. I've
just come back from Dubai and Egypt, and I understand that Iraq is at least
as hot, but humid as well. They are having problems with their water
supply, which makes the idea even worse. You need access to water in those
temperatures! Turkey sounds like a much better idea. It will still be stinking hot,
but at least you will be able to get water more reliably. I've also heard it
is an amazing place, and I'm sure you won't get bored there.
Good luck in your decision,
Susan
Australia
-----------------------------------------
You are a Hobo not a war correspondent. That is a job. A job is what I am supposed to be doing now, not talking to a Hobo. Why don't you go find paradise where you can live off the land for almost free, like Thailand after the war and before tourism. Only tell me and my wife about it though please. oo here comes the boss see ya. Scott still holding the Fort (Wayne).
---------------------------------------------------
Andy,
Get the fuck out of Iraq. You are crazy to be there. While clearly you know more about the situation there than I do, I do read the papers and watch the news. There's no disputing the fact that soldiers are dying there. It wouldn't be much of a stretch for some zealot to decide to shoot some crazy blond headed American who's been wandering the streets taking pictures. Or maybe you'll get lucky and they'll just take you hostage. And for what purpose do you take this risk - because you told people you were going to Baghdad? You have nothing to prove. Sounds like you're miserable there anyways. So go somewhere else.
As for Syria, why bother going there for two days? So you can add another country to your list of visited places? So you can sit around some table on Kao San Road and wow some deadbeat backpacker with tales of your time in Syria?
You'll make a lot of your friends happy if you leave sooner rather than later and we return to reading about more pleasant and less dangerous travels. There's an old Chinese proverb that goes something like this: "Beware of living in interesting times...."
Mike
--------------------------------------------
THERE ARE MANY OTHER PLACES YOU CAN GO TO WITHOUT JEOPORDIZING YOUR HEALTH!
Lots of hugs, Stay safe,
Linda
-------------------------------
Dear Andy,
Part of being a hobo is the freedom to change your mind; so, do NOT
go to
Baghdad. There is no longer any reason, and you have many more
interesting
options.....there, just my opinion...........
Your friend,
Carolyn E Ft. Wayne
-------------------------------
I wouldn't go to Baghdad! Plenty of other places to check out, why go
to
such an unstable area?
Doug B
---------------------------------
Hello Andy ,
I have been following you ....on the web site... for the last 2-3 weeks...! I enjoy every single word you report from the fields through your heart , mind and ego...! I feel , you are tired of the culture you are travelling in...these days. Which I understand , since my-self have been living in this culture for 1/3 of my life. Thus take a "unpaid" holiday....connect with women and soon you will be refreshed to accomplish your mind's goal....! Do not forget the mind is not you....! I'm in Dubai now and will head in about two weeks to Goa India. love , Nirav+++
---------------------------------
I'd say if you've no strong reason for going, head out
and go somewhere you want to. As it sounds like you've
already got plans to do. Otherwise it sounds like
you'll be in Baghdad purely because you said you
would, and therefore not enjoying, observing, and
making the most of your visit.
Safe travel,
Susannah
-----------------------------------
ANDY, we can think of plenty good reasons NOT to go to bagdad but none
in favor of going. as your dad said to me in the night when we got your
e-mailWELL I think Andy is safe for one more day because he is not
going today. he woke me up to tell me this so you know what we think lots of
love and many prayers mom dad
------------------------------------
Hello Andy,
It's been a long time to write and decided to reply when I've seen your
today's mail. Well, in my humble opinion, it's no good going to a trip
for Baghdad even if it has got lots of cultural and historical buildings
(or ruins, bah!) for sightseeing. Meeting with local people may be good but
on the other hand, many of them are still loathing USA and in this very
time soldiers haven't provided security very well, yet. So it won't be so
fun walking about at Baghdad in these conditions, i guess. But of course
the decision is yours; it's up to you. Take care of yourself and good luck
------------------------------------
Dear Brother Andy,
As your brother, I would support you 100% in whatever endeavor you
attempt in life as long as it was holy and just because of my love for you and
my prayers would be with you always, but, as a brother and a parent with
sons,
I would request that you not go to Baghdad without a definite mission
because too many families have lost loved ones already. ( although with
good reasons) Your mother and father have prayed for you daily and have
devoted their lives to serving their family, and I look forward to whenever the
"family" gathers so I know what they feel. I have experienced the
loss of someone I loved, (although under different circumstances with life
afterward being blessed abundantly) and it changes things forever. As our
family, we want to continue to experience the reunion of coming home and the joy
of sharing our experiences in life that we have been so blessed. Life
without mission can needlessly harm the ones left behind, so on behalf of many
who love you, move on to other adventures with a mission. Nothing is ever
guaranteed, except the love of God and that your parents and family
love you and look forward to seeing you again. May the love and protection of
Jesus
Christ, follow you wherever you go.
Your brother, Jerry
--------------------------------
yep....time to move on when you are loosing touch with remembering......need to stay alert to survive.
sure enjoy your photos.
lynn
i think you have already answered your question.
you are bored with the country and are ready to move on to other lands.
go with your instinct !!
you have made your mark....leave while the mark is fresh and good.
happy trails.
lynn
---------------------------------
this is your trip, your time and your $$$. if you
don't want to go somewhere, nothing there you want to
see, then don't go.
my opinion
jennifer
----------------------------------
Andy,
The only good reason you have for going to Baghdad is that you told
everybody you were going. Apart from that... So will you feel "obliged"
to go while you don't want (because you have no desire at all, it shows)
and show your nose just to be able to say : "been there, done that !" or
you'll do what you really want to as you said it was your only motto...
If you don't want to go to Baghadad, only want to spend 2 days in syria
and no day in Jordan ........
----------------------------------
GO TO BAGHDAD - READER COMMENTS - UN-EDITED
These are comments from readers that want me to go to Baghdad
More or less.
--------------------------------------------
torrejón de ardoz, 27 august 2003
You know, i don´t have any cash to send you but as
soon as i make it (i am struggling to maintain a four
kid family with a business language school that i have
founded here in Madrid where unlike you i finally put
down roots
do want to encourage you. As a matter of fact you see
many things exactly as i see them and what you are
doing is important.
When are you coming to spain? Maybe i could lay a
little cash on you then, and surely i would be happy
to have you stay with us. I promise many of your
observations coincide with mine.
I know you don´t need to go to Baghdad and i don´t
blame you if you don´t but i wish i had your eyes and
ears there reporting back to me. The media is so
sensationalistic but you seem to have an open and
honest view of things especially as far as gageing
where peoples hearts are. That is your mission
--discern the hearts of men and tell it like it is.
Ha, ha impossible, but you don´t do too bad anyway.
Respectfully yours;
and good job O Noble Traveller of the Earth and
its Cultures Thereof,
..richard
--------------------------------
Maybe not the best reasoning, but I would go just to say you’ve been there!
Don’t go all that way to Iraq, and get so close, and then just decide, hmmmm, no, I don’t feel like it. Or ‘it’s hard’. Just friggin do it... even if you just go for one day.
It’s not like you’re likely to ever get back there, right?
And what if it gets bombed even further to shit, and then there’s nothing there to see?
A little story...
My boss was kicked out of his house when he was 18 (in London, circa ‘65), so him and his friend bought a vw bus and drove by land from London down to the south tip of India, and took a boat to Indonesia, then Australia.
The best part of his trip was Afghanistan... he’s fairly well traveled, and said that by far it was the most amazing place he had ever been... the architecture, the people, the land, just amazing... straight out of Arabian Nights.
Since then it’s obviously been bombed to shit, it doesn’t even closely resemble what it did then. He feels incredibly lucky to have seen it when he did.
I know Baghdad is probably not amazing in that sense, but the point is that it could drastically change over the next few years, and if I were you, I’d take the time to get there and see it if only for the sake of having seen it.
You don’t seem the type to be afraid of a challenge, so whatever it takes, just freakin’ do it!
My 2 cents...
Wes
-----------------
Hello Andy,
I feel you must GO. There is a truth to be told there, the hearts and minds of every day Iraqi people. We watch CNN and are told nothing of substance. The Iraqis are likely to be a beautiful people caught up in world events not of their choosing, and their views on the ongoing war are unknown, a mystery worth unraveling, a story worth discovering for yourself and for your subscribers. This will be a very different kind of travel than you are used to and perhaps will be a life changing event, or at the very least satifying.
Tell us about their culture, their religion, their family life, their educational upbringing. You may not realize you are a traveling sociologist and anthropologist.
Pleae GO.
Lisa L.
-------------------
Go do what you want.
Women are a critical part of daily life. No women = depression.
Turkey = women on out and about. India = women on out and about.
Although, I can say I would have liked for you to at least visited Baghdad for a week or two (and then blast off to Turkey or India).
But, what do I know -- you gotta do what makes you happy -- life is precious remember?
And, no I don't think it is selfish to leave to make yourself happy.
------------------
BLOG what you want of this..John from Alabama
Andy,
The thoughts I hear about Baghdad is that more rich people live there
and there is less acceptance of the US. I would personally like to get
your view of a couple of the Sadam Mansions. Maybe see what the
cuisine is like compared to northern Iraq. I also heard that Sadam drained a
bunch of the delta in the south of Iraq. Have you thought about going
to Kuwait? What are the Saudis thinking? How about around Iraq like
Turkmenistan or Tajikistan? Those countries are mostly Muslim and not
at war and might be pretty cheap hobo country? Do you have to go to
Turkey to get to India? If you can get to Kuwait maybe you can go on from
there. I know you can fly from Kuwait to Bombay.
Am enjoying the letters,
Jackie likes your diet,
Love,
JJJJ
---------------------
Got to Baghdad if not for a day...why? 1. it's Baghdad 2. you'll have
difficulty accomplishing your mission in Iraq assessing the nature of
the country if you don't go to see, touch and feel Baghdad.
Maybe people are apathetic maybe because they think northern Iraq is
boring. That may turn around if you go to Baghdad increasing the risk to your
life.Sick, I know.
You may be feeling apprehensive because of the negativity you're
receivingfrom some readers.
What are they saying? Is one of them named Art, by chance? Just
asking.
Good luck making your decision. Can't wait to hear.
All the best,
Natasha
---------------------
Hi Andy,
Petra is in Jordan. Romans took it from the Arabs in about 100 AD and carved up (masterfully) the cave dwellings into huge Roman pillars and columns, temples and such right out of a living red rock cliff face. Something like seeing a Roman temple carved into a wallside at the Grand Canyon in Arizona. Open for tourists to view, so that girl could go there, no problema. It's a big deal, like Angkor Wat in Cambodia. There's something epic like it carved into a rock wall in Egypt. Monumental. Worth searching for a pic on the Web.
I'm happy about you going (or equally not going) to Baghdad, but the question you might ask yourself is will you be kicking yourself later if you approached it but didn't go out there? Something like picking up some volcanic ash and stuffing it in a cigar tube while at Mt. St. Helens or a chunk of concrete from the Berlin Wall. Looking back and say you were a "Witness to History". It's not worth infinite crap though, so know your own mind. Just a wildhair bit at that. To possibly misquote Jack Nicholson -- it's "Bovine Residue". Oh Hey btw ! ...I think Baghdad Bob stuff would sell even better than Iraqi postcards - perhaps a cottage industry for you on eBay after you leave there. A great novelty, sell them one at a time, like hammocks. Imagine eating cornflakes from a bowl just setting on a Baghdad Bob placemat. That kind of thing. I know I may sound wacky, but I've been up all night and a skunk just sprayed someplace outside...so it smells much worse than I could possibly sound. It's affecting my reason.
You mention Paris. My sister lives in Lyon, France. Her place has a big botanical garden butting up against her back door - she even has her own gated entrance to the Gardens, even though they lock the front gates at night. She says there are lots of Arab types that suddenly showed up in the Gardens out back, just before Bush's deadline in Iraq. Flooded the place with Arabicity. Her husband is a State Dept. officer and he gives these Middle-Easterner's the Eye. He calls them "Suspects".
Damn, that Rudi Bakhtiar's looking good! You've got an eye for the ladies. 50 million Frenchmen can't be wrong. Si or no?
- Chris
-----------------------
Hi Andy,
...Just to let you know what is going
on. We like to keep our ducks in a row as best we can. Hot over here. We
need to know what is going on in Bagdad. Go if you can but keep yourself
safe.
Thank You,
Bill & Mary R
------------------------
Hobo, how else will ordinary people ever see those parts of the world "un-edited" if you don't go.
You are our eyes and we appreciate you.
Phil
-----------------------
Hi Andy!
I'm reading your thoughts and travels through Irak for the last two
weeks...
Most interesting for me are the pictures, well commented, and very
illustrative of whats happening there. Very good work.
About the reasons to go to Baghdag... I'm sorry that can't tell you
something convincing, all i can say is that if I were you, i will be
heading to Baghdag right now... :) I know that things are getting
dangerous, but we need witnesess about whats happenning there.
Anyway, and most important, take care... think in safety.
I know that your opinions on this war and mine are not the same, but i
think we both share the respect for these people.
Next month i will be heading to Syria, Jordan and Israel for a 3 week
trip, and was worried about security, but reading you articles and
watching your photographs, all my worries fade out... :)
Yours,
--
David G Spain
---------------------------
Going to Baghdad is a tough one. Some people amy think of going there
to be a status thing where they could say, "Hey man, I've been to Baghdad",
but not enjoy any part of it at all. From what I've read Andy The
Hobotraveler has gotten a feel for the culture of Iraq both Kurdish and otherwise
and the capital may not emit the same type of culture or feel of Iraq since it
was taken by the Americans. One Reason to go would be to see if there is a
change from outside Iraq to Baghdad which there may or may not be.
Personally I would go, not for status but to see what the political and
social climate would be like compared to the rest of the country. The
capital city might very well be a totally different world inside the
country. Who really knows until it's seen with your own two eyes and
not on
CNN. I vote yes.
BRYAN
Vancouver, Canada
-----------------------------
hobo,
find out where saddam is hiding and interveiw him.
or better and safer ,tell solders where he is.
he could be in bagdad or in syria.
thx,
Mike Peden
"the MACHINE"
www.BruiserWrestling.com
----------------------------------------------
ANYONE WANT TO THROW IN THEIR 2 CENTS? Go - No Go - Baghdad?
I was walking over with Pete to his hotel talking over the latest developments.
This is what I said to him,
"Pete, I came to Iraq to find out what the Iraq people thought of the USA,
I know that they are all happy that we got rid of Saddam, I am losing daily more
reason to go to Baghdad. In the end, I only have one reason to go.
I told everyone I was going!"
aagh. This is bullshit.
A really huge problem is that I have no desire whatsoever to go to Syria and Jordan.
I have had enough of this type of culture. And Peter says he loved Syria. I only have enough
time to spend 2 days in Syria. This is just a tourist option, and not my type of slow travel.
I will make my mind up today.
Anybody have a good reason for me to go to Baghdad?
Tell me... please or I go back to Turkey and to Paris. Then get ready for India.
But who knows. I need a beach!
email me at hoboontheroad ATDELETETHIS yahoo.com
I GOT A ECO-TOUR GUIDE REQUEST TODAY
I have a small link offering tours to people.
1-4 people maximun.
A person wrote me today. I will see how it goes?
They want to go on an eco-tourism adventure.
I would like a fun trip. So maybe in about 6 months.
Who knows. I am very fussy on tours. I really want people to
do the right thing and be safe. A package deal is not my idea
of doing the best trip.
But if you pay me enough and want to have fun and learn about
culture and I will take you anywhere? I would love to go see Colombia
right now for a nice change. But if you are really crazy. I will come and
get you and bring you here. LIFE IS GOOD.
HOBO TOUR COST - PRIVATE ONLY
PAY FOR TOUR WITH PAYPAL
Monday, August 25, 2003
WHY AM I IN IRAQ?
It is obvious that everyone in Iraq wanted Saddam gone except for the
people that were on his payroll. So that question is answered.
The only possible question is,
"Is Baghdad the same as Mosul?"
But the bigger question is,
"Does anyone really care?"
Yes people. There are about 3 percent of you that want to hear about this.
So what do you think? Does my newsletter readership go up or down while I am in Iraq?
It goes down. Apathy.
So why write a newsletter that depresses people?
OK. So what?
But... I am personally getting daily more angry. I do not travel to get angry.
I am angry at the general lack of interest and the feeling that people think
I am in someway too patriotic, and so biased that I am totally wrong in my opinions.
I travel to have fun. There is no longer a challenge in Iraq.
It is not even that dangerous. Random Danger YES.
You know. Getting killed by car. Getting killed by one Islamic crazy.
This could happen in France or in Belgium. These place are full of crazies
also. I am working through some real anger at people of the world that
from my interpretaton are only interested in the conspiracy theory life or the
big guy against the little guy and how they feel the victim. Money for nothing people.
The welfare mentality of the world or socialism.
FRUSTRATED WITH THE WORLD
I almost never get to stay in a hotel with CNN.
I really should not watch it, but I am in a hotel for 13 dollars and
it has free breakfast, CNN and no toilet paper.
But I am going to stop watching CNN for my own personal mental health.
I listened to them and get very angry. They just misconstrue the world until
you believe the lie they present in the name of making money.
Frustrations in Iraq.
1. Racist views and the support of Terrorist in Palestine.
NOTE: They do not suport this in their own country.
2. Women are treated inferior.
3. CNN and BBC are lieing.
4. The USA just eat this crap.
5. An obious apathy on the part of 90 percent of my reader of newsletter.
The blog is little different. But the newsletter readers sort of only like the good photos
and the fun story.
I AM STILL IN ARBIL
Aagh. The world change very fast in Iraq for me and Peter.
We was planning on leaving on the bus today.
But it got delay for a reason I do not think I should explain.
Nothing bad, but real stupid.
I bought 100 dollars worth of Saddam Dinars yesterday.
This like having a pile of 4 books. Very big.
QUESTION FROM READER - WOMEN TRAVELERS.
I get kinda pissed........am I gonna have a lot of problems when I roam around the mid east like your doing??? I am a girl....woman, I wish I was a guy(for travel purpose only) but Im not. Will I be able to go to Iran, Iraq,Petra, or will I get in trouble cuz Im female???
Much Love & Light
Deborah From Cow Country
ANSWER:
This is a difficult question? Will YOU get in trouble?
It depends on how you talk with people and the level that can be diplomatic.
Here is question I pose:
Can you lie all the time?
If you can, then no problem for you.
For me this is always the problem.
If I am totally honest it become dangerous.
People all the time say,
"Say you are from Canada."
That would not do any good here.
I need to say I agree with the Palenstine side to be safe.
I cannot say my opionion. Sadly most of the world can lie on a moments notice.
It is not may way.
WOMEN
The nice thing about men is they think with their D@#$.
So you can more or less wrap them around your finger.
The question is about clothing. If you will cover yourself and not be western
then you probably can be OK. But do you want to be Islamic? Do you want and
is it OK to you that they consider you lesser, or maybe inferior?
It is self esteem questions and how you feel about being treated.
Most people that come here in one way or the other hate the USA.
This make life easy. Just go along. If you love the USA or agree with most of the policy.
Then it is dangerous. MOST is a big point. I do agree with most, not all, but from my
life experience I am positive that the world would be in worst shape without the USA.
That simple.
I think Iraq is much much better to travel in then IRAN. I do not know Petra or where it is?
Turkey in many ways is more Islamic then Iraq. Saddam made this place more secular.
But in the end he jumped on the Islamic wagon.
REPLY TO FRIEND ON MOSUL ENGLISH TEACHERS AND WANTING TO GO TO USA
Hello,
I am not sure what to say about the Scholars. Bashar brought up the USA visit. In many way all the boys in Mosul want to do is to have freedom to go to the USA. That does not mean they want to be good people. I told them of sister city after they wanted to do exchange. I know they will never get out the country as just normal people. But to me the emphasis was on reciprocity. I do not know my American friend. I am not happy with the way they look at the world. It is sort of like asking a guy from the Klu Klux Klan over to your house for dinner. Would you do this? Welcome them and try to make the feel safe and warm. I am not sure. The inherent desire to keep women and Jewish people in the name of God is against my abilty to accept.
I would not invite or welcome in any world the Klu Klux Clan and this poses the same dilemna.
ENGLISH STUDENT ASK THE QUESTION
There is a second question besides the "What do you think of Kurdish Women?"
The 2nd question is,
"What do you think of Americas Middle East Policy?"
Now this question could mean about 100 different policies or stance. But lets face it.
It means,
"What do you think of the USA supporting Israel?"
I had fun with the English student..
I said,
"That killing women and children with a suicide bomb is Taboo."
He did not understand Taboo.
I said,
"It is like me having sex with a Kurdish girl you may kill me."
The same. It violates my culture of acceptable behaviour.
I then added.
"Do it too many time and eventually there may be a country missing."
I actually said that statement in a way that my family and friends
and the politically correct would not like.
But he got a little fear look in his eye.
I did not think he believe a person could think that was possilbe,
and I suppose Hiroshima did not think that could happen, as the
USA did not think September 11th could happen, as the UN did not
think that the bombing could happen. What is unthinkable can happen.
ANOTHER PLAN FOR BAGHDAD
Now are friend does not want to drive to Baghdad.
I think we will take full size bus to Baghdad.
THAT VIRUS IS BUGGING ME
I pretty much ignore spam. But this virus is really obnoxious.
Hope I cannot get it on my computer by downloading pages.
Yahoo.com does a sort of cleaning.
JJ TO THE RESCUE - GREAT ADVICE ON HOTELS IN BAGHDAD
The Palestine and Sheraton Hotels are the HQ for all the journalists;
they're right across the street from each other and awesomely defended
(with tanks). The Palestine is $60/night.
But right across from and behind the Palestine is the Al-Fanar on
Abu-Nawas street, which is your best bet. $20/night, breakfast and dinner
included. Rooms available, don't worry about it. Ask the cab driver for the
Al-Fanar.
He should know right off where it is. If he doesn't, ask for the
Palestine or Sheraton, get inside the security cordon there (you don't
have to be a guest of the hotel), and ask for directions (it's less than a
block, and within sight of the security perimeter, so you should be ok.) On
the totally remote chance the Al-Fanar is full, they're very helpful and
can help you find other places. I know there are a couple hotels next
door.
Is it safe to walk around? Well, sort of. Most business shuts down
around 4 or 5pm since that's when the "ali babas" come out, and it's not safe
after that time. Mornings and early afternoons are the safest time of the
day.
Try to arrive then, but the streets bordering the Palestine/Sheraton
compound aren't too bad any time of day (except for aggressive begging
kids). I've walked through a couple areas that, I would find out later,
were
"no-go" areas. I think they were shocked to see a Westerner walking
alone without an escort or convoy--I made sure not to go back that way
though, on the off chance someone got the courage to try something.
Traffic here is complete disarray--try to get some pictures of it on
your way in. People going the wrong way up freeway onramps, every
intersection is jammed, etc.
Thanks from HoboTraveler.com JJ.
IF YOU ARE IN IRAQ? - SEND SCANS OF HOTEL BUSINESS CARDS
The best thing a traveler in Iraq can have is a scan of a business card.
The taxi driver can see this, read this, and take us to the correct place.
Send them to me, and I will put up on my HOTEL blog.
(The link is above)
hoboontheroad ATDELETETHIS yahoo.com
Thanks for helping the HOBOES stay safe.
Thanks Pete for collecting 3 more.
OPTON 2 FOR BAGHDAD TRIP or TRANSPORTATION
If Farid decides it is too dangerous to go to Baghdad. He is our Iraq friend and has a car.
Me and Peter could rent a ugly looking taxi and pay the driver too much money.
Get him to stop for us to take photos. Maybe pick up some locals so they cannot see us
so easily and make us a target. Take us directly to the hotel. The danger is the end of the trip.
From the Taxi stop to the HOTEL. This is the problem. The trip is easy.
Unless you was in a bright blue or white UN Toyota Land Cruiser or a Military Hummer.
I HAVE A DREAM
An editor to make my grammar and spelling correct.
Someone following me around and correcting the noise I make.
My brain is like a bad neighborhood, you do not want to go in alone!
COLIN POWELL FOR PRESIDENT AND HILLARY FOR VICE PRESIDENT
In a perfect world our next President would be Colin Powell and the Vice President could be Hillary Clinton I really do not like her, but that would make my Mom happy.
PURCHASED SOME IRAQ POSTCARDS
Hello,
I have now purchased about 35 Iraq Postcards. I can purchase more.
The tourist type with photo on them and such.
If you want one I can try to send from here, but do not think possible.
Maybe. If you want to try I will not guarantee.
IF you want I will carry one back to the USA and mail to you or from Europe.
COST:
5 Dollars mailed from outside Iraq.
10 Dollars mailed from inside Iraq. NO NO NO Guarantee they will get there
and I am not going to refund the money if you do not get it. This is very hard.
I will post some photos soon, but NO, you cannot sit around and be picky.
I suppose you can if you want to pay 15 dollars a postcard... hehehe.
PHOTOS OF POSTCARDS
CLICK here to pay with Paypal.com
Pay By CREDIT CARD - Very Safe. Paypal.com
Why does only the Ameicans Have a DREAM?
Only AMERICANS have a dream or at least the "American Dream"
The French helped give it to us.
The statue of liberty.
( NOTE: I may be trying to get in good with a French Girl. So beware)
HOBO NEWSLETTER ARCHIVE - PETE CAN SEE HIS PHOTO
http://www.topica.com/lists/Hobo_Traveler_Tips_Newsletter/read
PLAQUE ON THE STATUE OF LIBERTY
There is a plaque on the the Statue of Liberty.
The French gave the USA this statue to show our friendship.
PLAQUE
Not like the brazen giant of Greek fame,
With conquering limbs astride from land to land;
Here at our sea-washed, sunset gates shall stand
A mighty woman with a torch, whose flame
Is the imprisoned lightning, and her name
Mother of Exiles. From her beacon-hand
Glows world-wide welcome; her mild eyes command
The air-bridged harbor that twin cities frame.
“Keep, ancient lands, your storied pomp!” cries she
With silent lips. “Give me your tired, your poor,
Your huddled masses yearning to breathe free,
The wretched refuse of your teeming shore.
Send these, the homeless, tempest-tost to me,
I lift my lamp beside the golden door!”
New Colossus, The” (poem by Lazarus)
A Colossus is a larger then life statue.
TECHIE EXPLANATION TO GRAMMAR AND SPELLING
Since I learned to make WebPages the grammar and spell
checkers have greatly improved. I have used the ones in
word and could see how they could make my writing almost
perfect. Although the real problem is how I think. It is not
as simple and clear as maybe yours.
But nonetheless I could do a better job if I used the spell
checkers and grammar aids.
SO WHY NOT?
To make the newsletter work. I need to make a "HARD RETURN"
when typing. That means at the end of each line. I hit
the enter key. This is like the typewriters of old.
This is how I learned and quite natural. The new computer
programs are idiot proof.
I have tried on multiple times to copy and paste from Word
to my newsletter list server or other methods. But in the
end only a "Notepad" or text file works. A "WordPad" does
not. Saving as "Text" does not work. There is also an
inherent software and language problem of transferring
from an English Word program to an Arabic Word Program.
I can copy and paste this "Notepad" text file into a word
program and correct. (I really use WORKS) But because of
all the hard returns. Every line shows a capitalization
error and sentence fragments go crazy. It does do the
spell check pretty good.
Volume of information is a problem also. If you want
a real time log. I cannot spend all my time on form.
I must very quickly log it in, and let the noise fly.
I still miss 90 percent of the interesting events.
RUMORS OF TURKEY ARMY COMING TO MOSUL
This is good and bad.
The locals will revolt for sure.
They do not like the people from Turkey.
This in simple terms is the next tribe up the river
and their competition. They have a history of mass murder
and killing between both sides.
But what this society needs is a tolerance of diversity.
I think they will get it only by the sword.
The will never accept it.
IS IT MANIFEST DESTINY IN ISRAEL?
Peter was telling me that and this is only heresay.
I do not know the truth, that Israel encourages Jewish
people in places like Peru to come to Israel.
The need new settlement so there is a constant expansion
of Israel. This would piss off the Palestines.
I am in favor of the wall. I do consider it racist in a way.
But I am not going to say that all races can live together.
The 1000's of years of war in the middle east would prove
this to me. People should learn to live together. But in
places like Ireland and Israel this does not happen.
The do not learn. So if you put a fence up around a race.
Say all the straggler out and stay out this would be a simple
problem to a complex problem. The strange part about Israel
is that it is one of the few strictly one religion countrie
in the world. Or they was formed as a one religion country.
In reality they are not.
But it could be said that most of the Arab countries are one
religion and even though they have a token groups. These
groups are always under the possibility of being exterminated.
Sunday, August 24, 2003
INVASION FROM BAGHDAD
There has been at least 3 buses of young travelers on a tour
from Baghdad that are now in Erbil. There are lots of young
and beautiful women.
There was a girl next to me in the internet cafe.
"Where are you from?"
"Here is my yahoo email"
"Here is my Hotmail address."
"Will you be in the internet tomorrow?"
I told Peter that was in the booth across from me.
"Pete, there is a God!"
But a little on the mischievous side.
These girls are maybe about 17 and too young.
It is dangerous to talk with them and the boys are
obviously jealous. Just a lot of temptation.
I talk about women and you think I am only selfish or
other. But trust me, in the scope of the world the softness
of women is needed. I am not going to say they are innately
better. But there is a softness that make a harsh climate
and macho world seem balanced. Women are equally violent
and supportive of violence. They do not stop violent
action.
GLOBALIZATION OR GLOBALISATION
This is inevitable, but I am sure that its worst culprit.
MTV or Music Videos will destroy the culture of Islam.
They have these rules. MTV provokes or encourages a fashion
that is in direct conflict to the religion.
The only hope for the Islamic Religion is to stop Televisions,
Mobile Telephone, and Internet from entering their country.
PETER LEARNS MY TRUE OPINION
I am sitting in the internet cafe in Arbil.
Peter ask,
"Where is the picture me on the blog?"
I say,
"It is not in the blog, you need to subscribe to the newsletter to see all the photos."
He says,
"Now I see how you are."
I say,
"I do no understand why people resist doing the easy thing?"
The newsletter is much easier for me to organize and create a comprehensive
display of all links and photos.
I say,
"You all are just a bunch of Wankers."
This is so crazy to me. I make a simple thing.
But they want to just glaze over the information. I do not expect anyone
to read all my newsletter or even sometimes to even look. But it seem
wise to have the information sources available and know how they work.
I really do not like the Thorntree on Lonely Planet. I see it a full of know
it all people and to general. Very difficult for a real traveler. I use it in
Iraq. But the lonely planet does not have any good hotel infomation on
Iraq. So the Thorntree is one of the few possible options.
But I do have a username and password. I do make the knowledge
available. I also put up the wankers blogs. (i.e I hate American Blogs.) When they
are not trying to incite and spread hate, they do tell some specific and
helpful comments. Then they go back to the hate.
"Basically they did not get hug as children. Are not loved now,
except by all the other people that did not get the hug also."
So you want to be famous by getting on Lonely Planet?
Or do you want information?
hmm WOULD IT BE IN POOR TASTE?
Peter is thinking that there should be a reward to the first man
that has a interesting relationship with a GIRL in Iraq.
I told him that putting money on it was a British thing.
I forget what it is called. But they have this thing of going
in Pubs...
He is also teaching all the local curse word and bad phrases.
I try to stop him, but I can't stop laughing.
TRIP TO BAGHDAD DELAYED ONE DAY
Our friend is wanting to delay a day the trip to Baghdad.
He is a very busy man and has a lot of busines in Arbil, so this is
understandable. So we wait. Kirkuk is a little hot, but Pete went
through this morning. So we play it by ear.
JJ MAKES IT TO BAGHDAD
JJ the American made it to Baghdad. Said he has been there a couple of days.
We are writing to find out what the hotel situation is and looking for recommendations.
LIFE IS GOOD AND ALWAY BETTER
...after I send my newsletter. Lots of work and make me get that
"Completion High."
Like I did something today.
ANOTHER NEWSLETTER WILL BE SENT TODAY
Subcribe to get all the pictures, tips, and complete story in your box.
Link at top of page. I am in the process. The computer is zappng files
so in about one hour.
Saturday, August 23, 2003
Do the Iraqi people want another dictator?
Hmmm? Yes they do.
My friend Hassan explained what a Iraq friend did in the new democratic Iraq.
He parked his car in the middle of the street. Blocked everyone and left it.
The idea of democracy is freedom to park you car and having no one tell you what
to do. A leader for the Iraqi people is not democracy. He is the person like
the man in the Mosque that tells them what to do.
The expect to have the new boss. They want the new boss soon.
Someone to stop the mess. But Democracy to them has nothing to do with
the boss. The just think the boss will fix the problems, and they can do anything
they wish. Including complaining and sitting on their butts.
Freedom is not being told what to do.
Democracy and freedom are always grouped together.
Democracy is a type of government.
If you have never had a democracy. How would you know what it is?
WARNING SENT TO ME
I know how you don't like it when people suggest you shouldn't go
somewhere because it's dangerous and they're afraid. And what I'm going to say
to you here does'nt come close to suggesting such a thing either... but I do
think there is a warning I have to share w/ you. Hope that's ok.
I heard a man in Baghdad from Time magazine. He sounds like one of
those crazy reporters who imbeds themself w/ the resistance fighters. He
says he's heard from Fedayeen fighters from west of Baghdad that the bombing
at the UN was executed by an internal Islamist front (not necessarily
Anwar Al- Islam). He also said he heard (im not sure what "heard" translates
into e.g. rumor or fact) from Kurdish intelligence (Mosul, Kirkuk region) of
a specific threat of another bomb attack in a specific area of Baghdad,
specifically, the area of aid agencies and government type
establishments. It's also been reported that the truck used in the UN attack was
standard Soviet, military, Iraqi army issue. These trucks can be located at any
Iraqi military facility in Iraq. And if I recall correctly the war
coverage I watched for 3 weeks, these bases are everywhere. The whole F'n
country is a weapons depot.
So, Andy....I know you're going to Baghdad, and I know you're a smart,
common sense, seasoned traveler. I know you'll go there and be fine.
But I have had this feeling the attacks in Iraq are going to intensify for
some time now. I've just been waiting, actually. and when I heard this
reporter guy from the Times live on the news it only confirmed my suspicions. I
just want to share with you this "feeling" I have about the situation in
Iraq right now, and to raise raise the following concerns such as...if
you've seen and can recognize what an iraqi military army trucks looks like
start looking around for the nearest barrier you can put between it and you
at any moment. I know, it sounds silly. and come to think of it,
adventurous. just do as you always do being aware of your surroundings.
Also...the Kurds know a LOT! and they've provided a lot of
intelligence before, during and after the war (major combat) let's seee..the Saddam
boys were taken out in Kurd country, they've provided intelligence that lead
to the capture of many of the high ranking Iraq officials from the deck of
55 (is that the number? i thought there were 52 cards in a deck) plus,
special forces have been embedded up there in Kurd country since gulf war I.
So you know, they know a lot. Information is power. My point is, don't let
your guard down to much up there in Kurd country. Information is power.
Have you ever heard it said, "If I told you, I'd have to kill you."
on another point...you're perfectly positioned to have soem great
adventure :-) ...you could embed yourself with either group, the
counterintelligence operations coming out of the north or the resistance fighters (possible
profile: the ones who look evil, dont smile, the angry ones who stare
at you intently) and fight out lots of information....maybe you can do a piece
on your blog where you post iraqi's opinions, knowledge or perception of
where saddam is or what role he's playing in the attacks in the country.
wanna play w/ the CIA???? :-) we could have fuunn! if you did this, they'd
definitely watch you. mebbe not such a good idea.
ANSWER:
I ask all the time about Saddam. They do not know anything
and would turn him in if they did. There is an obvious Islamic
movement in the North here.
I posted this now, and because there is Peter and JJ in the country and
who knows else.
LETTER FROM READER
I think why you may be receiving more 'hate' mails here recently is because you haved arrived in 'hot tropic (pun intended)' Iraq and are offering opinions and observation. Morons have taken their stance (pro war, anti-war) and more importantly identified themselves with their stance. Anytime they hear opinions contrary to their stance they take it personally. These are the hippies with credit cards, ivory tower ridden professors that have no empirical evidence compiled to their theories, artless/uninformed do gooders who for some reason do not realize there is Good and evil in this world and it is best to try to keep the evil in check at All costs. Some people don't like to be proven wrong others are so obstinate that they can never be proven wrong. Often they can't see the forest because of the trees....
Nonetheless, I think our administration has mishandled the reasoning for war, but I have been following this Iraq saga for some ten+ years and thought action was overdue. Saddam (along with Milosevic, Pot Pot, Mugabe, et al) basically 'nuts in your faced' the international community and UN and he and his cronies of fear were due for a lickin'. Unfortunately, in war, a lot of good guys have to go too (to a good place).
I have enjoyed your analysis/take on life and Iraq. I am gonna be very interested to see what Arab Baghdad is gonna be like. I will get you some PayPal here soon.
take it easy,
Dave -- from Houston
MY ANSWER: Very good. Nothing needed to add. I agree.
AM I A SPY?
My nephew are telling my family.. Yes.
"Uncle Andy is really a spy."
JJ the American says I look like a spy.
People want to know if I am connected with the CIA?
I tell them. If I am then they forgot to send the check.
I am too poor to be a spy.
Plus... give me a break. Who really knows what a spy looks like?
I can tell you some fun crap.
After September 11 I received some really subversive group mails.
One from a place in El Salvador and another from the border town
of Venezuela. I forget the name.
These were in Spanish and downright dangerous in my mind.
So being the good guy. I forward them and write long emails to
the CIA and he FBI explaining the situations involved.
But do I get a reply? NO. I think they are at lunch.
I also have let me see. I cannot remember.
Yes. I made the CIA factbook my number 3 choice for top webpages
for actual traveler. These are pages that really help me while traveling.
Not at home. But when I am in an internet cafe.
I gave the CIA a friendly heads up email. No reply.
I am not sure they really even exist. In the places I go. They should be around.
It is hard to imagine them being secret enough for me to not pick up
on one in 7 years. But I have not.
TOP TRAVEL SITE PICKS FOR 2003 BY HOBOTRAVELER.COM
OK FOLKS - DO THE RIGHT THING
I have found in my life that a person that does the right thing
will not be appreciated. Especially while alive.
So do the right thing USA. There will always be people
trying to make money off the telling of misery and the selling
of misery. BBC, CNN, Aljazeera, and all the blogs below.
It is our, mine, and your responsibility in this world to separte
the wheat from the chaff. I wish I could tell you how to easily.
I am now after coming to Iraq almost positive you could just
watch Television and anything they say or infer is happening
or is the truth, you could probably bet the opposite is really the
truth. Life is good.
NATASHA COLLECTS LINKS ON OPINIONS OF IRAQ
This guy's writing makes my blood boil.
http://www.back-to-iraq.com/
person in baghdad (anti US)
http://riverbendblog.blogspot.com/
another in baghdad
http://dear_raed.blogspot.com/
Raed's favorite Baghdad, anti-US newspaper:
http://www.iraq-today.com/
after the war, i learned the power was being diverted to cities north
and south of baghdad, especially the south. where as before the war,
saddam deprived those cities of power. much of the source of anger and
resentment in baghdad is probably the result of them getting a dose of their own
medicine. i could be wrong.
MY REPLY:
Hard for me to be fair to all these blog and pages.
Cost me too much money to read in an internet cafe.
But the other side has freedom.
I should change my tactics. I am sure I could fill you full of anger
and hate, and do like Hitler. Try to get you to hate the USA.
I am sure the silly people from the USA would donate the most.
I am going to just keep on taking photos and enjoying Iraq.
The people love me and my country and that I am positive.
But if I find that in Baghdad they do not.
I will be the first to say.
"Leave this dry desert, and go home."
We killed the leader and the big problem.
So if they want us to leave. Leave.
We did the good deed. We got rid of Saddam.
I do not see that the Iraq people want the USA here that
much. So we could leave.
THIS MAN HELPED
I go to Mosul from Arbil. I share a taxi with 4 other people. This man is in
the back and speaks about 20 words or English. The taxi driver goes all the
way to the hotel. There is a one way street and a big traffic jam.
This man gets out of the taxi with me. Grabs my bag and starts walking
for my hotel. He probably does not say 2 words on the way.
He makes sure I am in my hotel and walks away.
He knows I am from American and so does the taxi driver.
Actions do speak louder then words.
THE FOX IN THE HEN HOUSE
It is just too stupid. I meet UN people
all over the world. They either are from the country
they are trying to fix or the assistant for the person
that is working to help the country. All the foreign people
are surrounded by locals. The skew the whole concept because
the UN people are either surrounded or from the country.
They will say whatever is needed and steer the UN towards
anything that will get their people more money.
There is WFP is in a country that is a major wheat producer.
(World Food Program)
There is lots of money in Iraq. The UN needs to go to poor countries.
They are sometimes not smart enough enough to know when
they are being taken for saps or stooges.
The specific targeting is proof of the naive trusting
of all their workers. They think that because they are from
a torture country. They are always victims. Most victims
are self appointed. For a good opinion you have to talk
to the person that for the most part refuses to talk.
Would not allow you to interview. Would not be on camera.
The UN is infiltrated with people that need or want to save
their own country or themselves.
I remember my first meeting with a UN person.
I was in Guatemaula. This guy was telling my girlfriend from
Germany how to go to Tikal. Then he goes into how he could take
her and drive his UN truck or they could fly. So here he is
chatting up my girlfriend. I did not mind. She needed to leave.
But this is tacky, and he is explaining how he can go easily.
I wanted her to leave. But she thought this was tacky also.
She said,
"Does he not have to work? Or does he just spend his time
running around in his big truck?"
(SUV - Most people in Guatemaula do not have a vehicle)
I was not able to ditch her, and she just considered me more
noble because I would not even talk with him. I said she could
do what she wants, but to me he was a disgusting representation
of human flesh. Getting all his money from the UN and then abusing
the good faith of people. The UN does more good then bad, but there
is a prevailing problem of living high on the hog, and not being
with the real people. It is an EXCELLENT job except when
they kill you.
LET ME EXPLAIN MY FAMILY
My Mother and Father both worked in Factories. My mother
worked for an auto parts factory and my father worked
for a printing factory. Both of their factories closed
their doors before it was really time for them to retire.
But they both got a retirements of sorts, plus Social Security.
I worked on a farm most of my younger years.
Then for a concrete company for a couple of years.
All the children in my family went to College.
I did various things.
But you can send the kid to college, but you
cannot take the country out of the kid. I am by heart
a country kid, and not city kid. I can have some heavy
biases about the city kids, and their McDonalds mentality.
I have a feeling that I can woop any of them easily.
Just part of the country kid mentality.
Went to Sunday school and church, and we pray before
we eat in my family. Most of the big city thinks I am
probably stupid. But my mother and father celebrated 50 years
of marriage a couple of years ago. Are yours still married?
I believe in family, home, and apple pie.
I believe in the American dream.
I am not disillusioned.
I have had my problems. I am a recovering alcoholic
and the USA legal system has taken a pound of my flesh.
I got what I deserved.
I may not socially be quite as developed as the city
kids. They may have a more sophisticated view of the world.
I am not sure? They all want to justify the crazy behaviour
as OK and now what I would call "Fruits and Nuts." They live
in places like California and New York and call me stupid.
So I think they are Fruits and Nuts and they think me naive,
undereducated and stupid. The would call me a "Hoosier" with
delight. It is about the same look as how the Europeans say
"Americans" like we are peasants. But I am also a peasant
in my own country and very proud of it!
But my self esteem is intact. I know at the end of the day
I can kick their A@# and who cares. I also know that when
those good old boys from the coffee shop speak they are like
me, and those good old boys from Texas may seem stupid but
they can do the same. I try to explain about Bush and the
world thinks he is stupid. But he is kicking A@#. I hope
he keep kicking and let God separate them. Sort of simple
in a complex world,
But I told you this story for a reason.
There is an evolution of civilization in all society.
I remember when people made fun of me in my town for
having long hair or wearing shorts.
There are signs of development and civilization.
All people are not the same. That is just political correctness
that can get you killed. Enjoy your self rightousness
and the idea that you are a pacifist.
The USA was born with a war, as was France, Germany,
Japan, and most countries in the world.
There is an intellectual snobbery in the world that has
not got enough sense to call a horse a horse.
But I am pretty sure they know how a Jackass behaves.
I have collected about 200 small signals of social and
economic development in the last 7 years of travel.
Small things like a 2 wheel cart, or a water fountain.
All countries do not have these, and some have more.
One of these days I will finish the newsletter and it
can be tip devoted to telling you how to rate the development
of a country. I do this for fun and I like to observe
how the world lives.
I do not go visit a country, that is for tourist.
I try to go and live in country with the people.
At least I try, so I am here in Iraq.
Trying to see if these good ole boys know how to
behave, or will they learn?
On a side note about my grammar and spelling.
In a lower level of economic and social standing
the ability and emphasis on speaking and writing
is less. The people talk the way they think and want
without any remorse because it is natural.
PHOTO I TOOK IN KIRKUK
There are a few USA soldiers on the roof of this building.
Outside the Taxi driver said was a bunch of Ex Saddam Soldiers that want a salary.
The war is won, but nobody was beaton. Go figure?
SO THE MAFIA GANG WAR IS IN THE WAY OF BAGHDAD
In the simplest terms. Kirkuk is having a gang war.
After they stop their turf war.
Me and my friends can drive on through to Baghdad.
A Mafia type mentality with way too much money.
HOW THIS SOCIETY APPEARS TO BE SET UP
This by all signs should be a very poor country.
The social development I have only seen on the Amazon River and
along the Mekong in Laos. In these area it is possible that a tribe could go over
to its neighbor and kill a few people with no apparent reason.
At least not a good reason.
This is what happened today in Kirkuk. Turkman and Kurdish killed each other.
This is about the same a the Democrats killing a few Republicans in the USA,
or similiar to the killing in Northern Ireland. The Catholics and the Protestants.
WHAT IS STRANGE?
Both Saddams Mosul and Kirkuk are very well off compared to most countries.
All of Kurdistan is very developed compared to most countries.
What it appears is that they got a lot of money from OIL.
The had a mentality of Mike Tyson and work on the same wavelength.
So you go a lowly street type mentality with a lot of money.
Suseptable to sudden temper tantrums like Mike Tyson. The same type of
way of looking at the world.
THIS IS REAL FOOLER
They are so wealthy it makes me feel like leaving.
They have no idea what poor is here in the north of Iraq.
Maybe in the south it is different. But my gut instinct says no.
So you give a poor kid a bunch of money and he abuses the world.
Tribes with lots of cash.
They define themselves constantly by their religion, and other subcategories.
Assyrian, Turkman, Kurdish, Arab, PDK etc.
All seem to want to be the leader of the mafia like society.
They are not working on all cylinders. I must be very careful that I do not
overestimate their sense of fairness and justice.
They are very honest also. I have had 0 problem with petty crime
like pickpockets or the cleaning people stealing. Nothing makes me feel
like they rob much. So the whole situation is strange.
Maybe this is the overlay of a heavy hand of Islam.
The religion is good, but fails to monitor its own.
They are still operating on the mentality of the period of the Crusades.
I think 90 percent of the development had to happen in the last 20 years
and before that they was just a step above the "Cradle of Civilization"
Too many crazy things happen.
Like I said. Only in Laos and on the Amazon.
I wanted to stay a night in a small village on the Mekong between
the Golden Triangle and Luang Prakbang. There was this guide boy.
He said it was very dangerous.
The practices some time of Animalism or some worship of Animals and sun gods.
Things like that.
I ask him,
"Why not stay?"
He say,
"The might kill you."
I could not understand the answer and in reality his English was bad
and that is a terrible answer. It does not explain anything.
I finally think I understand. In the social development and civilizing of a
tribe there comes a time when the tribe combines with others until there
is a group or country. The mix and become one. If they continue to define
themselves and behave in a racist manner. They are still tribal.
Thus the reason why people talk about Tribes in Iraq.
Trust me. They do not look like tribes when driving a Mercedes or a Beemer.
These boys have some bucks.
OK. What about Laos.
The village was very simple. They think in terms of suspicions and gossip.
All that has to happen is the gossip goes the wrong way and you are dead.
No real law. Same as Iraq. They have it, but you just go for the hills.
Same in Mexico sometimes.
This is a violent people. Latin Americans are not violent.
Spanish blood is violent. Southeast Asians are violent.
All of the Western world is violent. That is why there are so many laws.
We need them or we would kill each other.
My friend in Mosul one of the school teachers was saying
that there is 3 tribes in Tikrit. I am sure they do not look like
what you think a tribe looks like. But they probably behave like
you would think. Women have almost 0 rights here.
Living proof that people would not handle money the way they
should if they had it.
DEFINED - WHO ARE YOU IN IRAQ?
Everyone has a label here.
Here is a pretty good link to explain.
6 MAJOR PARTIES OR TRIBE LIKE PEOPLE IN IRAQ
WHO ARE TURKOMAN OR TURKMAN AS THEY SAY HERE
TURKMAN
TURKMAN AND KURDISH KILL EACH OTHER IN KIRKUK
Kirkuk is the city I stopped in the other day and too a few photos.
Could not find a cheap hotel, so came back to Arbil.
But the rumor is that the Kurdish have killed 5 Turkmans.
The Turkman have killed 5 Kurdish. This is not good.
I am suppose to leave Abil. Go to Kirkuk. Enter the Saddam territory
and go onto Baghdad on monday. My friend with the car is not too happy.
He calls them Turkman.
I guess the are both Sunni Moslem. But sort of like Catholic and Protestant.
I tell you. It is not good to be different... hehehe
CHRIS GIVE ME DETAILS OF CNN WOMAN
Her name is Rudi Bahktiar, but I think that's Pakistani. I can watch her for hours...LOL.. Also Heidi Collins, if you can see her there on your regional version - highly recommended. Hah! I have 2 CNN's here with different extreme anchorwomen. There's also a very hot young blonde war correspondent on FOX whose name I can't recall, but generally the "Women of CNN" would be the title on a Playboy magazine that I'd impulse buy if I saw it on a newstand.
I don't miss the 5 dollars. Maybe go to a 2-Star instead some night. You might run into Saddam Hussein! Get me an autograph - I could sell that on EBAY.
Eating Steak and Cheetos since 4 AM here in lakes and forest North Idaho. Good Fun!
- Chris
ANSWER: Nice to know on these lonly nights the girl on CNN has a name.
What I do?
CNN GIRL IS LOOKING GOOD
I can tell there are no women here.
I am looking at the girl on CNN and thinking she looks good.
I like the one from India. I think that is where she is from.
The others though are just SO SO.
I have to watch CNN Asia or World.
That way they can distort the news for the region to best fit their distortion.
UPGRADE OF COST ON HOBOTRAVELER.COM
Hello,
A Hobo Life is always a little more expensive each day. Is that progress or recession.
I just went from the 350 Meg Package to the 500 Meg Package.
It is hosted with some pretty good guys for techies.
But to some. I am also a Techie!
Here is their hosting page:
http://www.wizardshosting.com/
The are good. I would recommend.
Life is Good!
I will smile them down. Maybe the give me discount.
Make them laugh till they discount.
Try to smile them down.
Ooops.. this is all text. OK. Laugh them down.
hmm My big debate
If a person, people, religion, race, creed declares war on my country or beliefs.
Am I in a war?
ANSWER ON MOMS LETTER ABOUT CHRISTIANS
Hello,
OOPS. Got the real bosses in life a little on edge. My mother corrected me.
That she was a Christian first and an American second.
I agree, but was more or less trying to explain the racism here in Iraq. The put things
in this order. Country then Religion. Although the religion is more important here also.
But it is hard to believe anyone would kill in the name of a God.
YOU are a PERSON last here. If you are not defined first. You do not exist.
I remember 2 black people in Venezuela fighting over the name.
One was a Moreno and the other a Negrito. The Moreno had straight hair.
The Negrito has curly. I was laughing all the way to the next place.
Sad though. The Moreno was more black then the Negrito. The word Negrito means
Black, blah blah blah. I could care less. They was both nice, but did not want to
talk with each other. They both wanted to talk with me, but not to each other.
I was in between.
This has a strange bearing on life. Chavez is a Dictator. Racist country.
Saddam is a Dictator and this country is racist.
We are humans first and all the rest is just noise.
NATASHA WANTS TO SEE PHOTO AND INFORMATION ON ME
SHE WROTE:
Why would I want to know? And why would I spend my time pursuing the
question on a Friday night?
a psychological analysis: I was bored one day at work. Couldn't focus
because I was day dreaming of traveling in Iraq. I turned to the
internet and began a targeted search to find people traveling in iraq posting
weblogs
or blogs. in google i typed "travel OR travels OR traveling iraq
weblog OR
blog" and yours pops up pretty close to the top. i did more searches. i
stumbled upon blogger sites where soldiers or marines stationed in iraq
every once in a while posted some pics or text. but yours was exactly
what i was looking for. it was personal, extensive, random yet specific.
myreaction was, i find this person, who is doing exactly what i was day
dreaming, which of course, this person, you...you sparked my curiosity.
you post all these pics but there are none of you. several times you make
the point you won't show yourself in the pics. i guess i'm just curious,
naturally, and asked for more specifics. i bet i'm not the only one
who's curious.
ANSWER
Probably the number one request.
Photo of me. But here I am a Hobo. I like to travel more then I like
to write this newsletter or blog. If I was famous, or people could see
me and recognize me, they would think maybe I am special.
I am just me. Nothing special. Just a guy enjoying life as I wish.
If a person could recognize me I would be famous.
What good would it do for the world or me.
I think fame is a curse. I would like my newsletter to be famous.
It would be nice to think I open the eyes of the world.
But I believe I am quite handsome and have had well over my share...
But this would just help the letter. Something about a pretty face
sell shoes, cars, and all sorts of things. I would rather you liked me
for my brain. I understand that is not the reason people like each other.
The brain has little to do with it. But for my blog and newsletter.
That is your only option.
Plus I could destroy my passion. My love of travel. Fame. A curse.
STATUS OF WEBPAGE FOR SCHOLARS - VisitMosul.Org
I reserved and paid for the domain name. "Visitmosul.org" today.
http://www.visitmosul.org
It is organization because it is non profit.
It is visit because they want to welcome the world.
Warning ( I do not respect or believe in anyway with their views of Jewish.
The majority of these people are racist toward the Israel or Jewish people
and this is a danger.) My help will not in anyway support this. Plus I do not
recommend anyone of the Jewish religion to come to Iraq. It is extremely dangerous.
Friday, August 22, 2003
READER OF NEWSLETTER QUESTION
A newsletter asked:
Andy,
what was the plate of food in the picture on this
screen
http://www.hobotraveler.com/120mosul03.shtml
that you didn't like? it looks kind of gross.
thanks jennifer
ANSWER
Something to do with peppers, onions and rice.
I do not eat food to make people happy.
I no longer care if they are offended. So be it.
It is one of them quiche lover specials for the Fruits and Nuts of the world.
I HAVE A QUESTION
I try to negotiate with most countries.
I say I will trade 5 American Girls for 1 of theirs.
They sort of like that idea.
I have been bouncing off the Iraq people with this Joke.
I wonder sometimes if they have ever seen a women.
They watch the sex on TV and the videos constantly Surf the net
and all sorts of things. Sometimes they act like girls do not exist.
I do not see many, and wonder myself.
Are there girls in Iraq?
USING MY MATERIAL - PRE-LICENSED IF BEHAVE
I had a person ask me for permission to send or repeat what I said,
You need to include and blame me for all my comments by sending them to my
page. Say written by,
Andy the HoboTraveler.com
http://www.hobotraveler.com/blogger.html
Best to say where. Newsletter or blog. But in the end. Who cares. Just get the "HoboTraveler.com" correct....
Andy the noise a.k.a. HoboTraveler.com
BAGHDAD BOB IS FAMOUS
You remember that stupid public announcer man for Saddam.
"Baghdad Bob."
I believe that is his name. He is being used to sell here in Iraq.
The made a very funny cartoon or spoof of him.
THE ROAD TO BAGHDAD
From Arbil we will go to Kirkuk. Enter the Arab part and go to Baghdad.
I am going to have lots of trouble getting to Tikrit.
Unless the Soldiers help.
Anyone want to give me a ride to Tikrit?
Are you CIA people reading? Get me to Tikrit please.
So I can say,
"Who's next?"
USA WAS CORRECT TO ATTACK IRAQ
Saddam had billions of dollars.
He hated the USA and Israel.
He had enough money to buy a nuclear bomb.
He had already used and purchase weapons of mass destruction.
Saddam is the Weapon of Mass destruction.
The only solution is to kill him and anyone that support him.
This is just too easy folks.
A crazy man with enough money to buy a nuclear bomb.
The first sign of being crazy is wanting to even fight with the USA.
Even France is not that stupid, and their economy is showing that they
can be pretty stupid.
EXPRESSING MY FEARS
What is up with all you intellectuals and crazies.
The world has danger. To ignore and not discuss it is just fear.
I write down these ideas and fears for lots of reason.
But most of all as a testin ground. I could make a drastic bad decision.
(Please do not send me a silly email saying. Do not go to Baghdad)
But maybe I am thinking about this wrong, and a person could tell me my mistake
before it got me killed.
I also have lots of experience and sharing that can keep a person safe also.
I am afraids. Mostly of women, but also of the Religous people here.
They appear to be the big problem. The normal Joe Blow on the street is not the problem.
It is that insane person that believe the television and the Islamic leaders.
WHAT IS THE MOST DANGEROUS THING TO DO IN IRAQ?
Talk about the Palestine / Israel problem.
It is obvious that the majority of people are completely racist and want to kill and destroy Israel.
This is almost everyone. Crazy, but it is that racist. They are brainwashed.
The USA support Israel, therefore I am guilty.
So this makes them see white.
Almost all of them. That is the nature of a dicatarship. They want a common enemy.
Reminds you of Hitler?
But if you say you are not afraid.
Stay home and never leave.
I think you have delusions of adequacy.
Everyone is afraid of the world. It is a dangerous place.
I remember laughing and commenting on a guy in the Babylon Hotel saying to me
that I was safe. I was a civilian. Tell that to the dead workers in the UN.
I just this morning has Hassan tell me that Mosul is safe.
He has a complete inablity to have empathy with me. He thinks to himself,
"I am safe, therfore you are safe."
Stupid Stupid Stupid.
This is normal logic. No empathy at all.
When you have guide. Think about how well they understand the USA culture
or the German Culture. Can they think what you feel.
Do you know what I feel?
Or do you spend all you time trying to disagree?
Or are you too afraid to even consider it?
Are you a spectator in life or a player?
I WAS CORRECTED
Those of you that suck know who you are.
Those of you who are good people also know that.
Thanks to the good people that help and support me.
I suppose there are the players in life, and the spectators.
CHRIS I WILL MAIL IT
aaagh. I started to get on paypal.com to send you back that money.
I am too afraid. I touched that in Thailand and they shut me off.
The do not like you accessing from certain countries. I have my mother
send you check or maybe you will do me another favor and reverse it.
I am not sure if that is possible.
CHIS IN IDAHO - I OWE YOU.!
Hello,
I feel like putting you on the payroll Chris. Do NOT send donations. I owe you. It is hard to explain how you help me by doing research and sending information when I am in an information crunch. It is very difficult to travel the world. You are the best. I could not carry with me the books, maps, information and advice that you provide in wonderful and sincere genuine and caring detail.
Chris you are a frind to this Hobo.
I am returning the money.
APOLOGY TO GERMANS
Peter the Brit explained something and it was more or less confirmed yesterday in Mosul.
I see lots of Mercedes and BMW's. It appears that the Kurdish people, and some of the Arab people
are extremely wealthy. That is true, but the better truth may be in the explanation that Peter gave.
ALL ARE STOLEN
Either they go to Germany and buy a car and leave the country, or they just buy a stolen car.
Peter was saying there is an advertisement for German to come to Poland.
It says,
"Come visit. Your car is already here."
So it appear that all the cars are stolen, and maybe they are not rich, but just part of the chain
of purchaser of stolen cars. I need duct tape.
OK. Germans you are off the hook. I apologize. You maybe did not break the sancitions.
But I still have my eye on you, as do I on the French. Only and mostly the women.
PETER? You have better accomplished the mission.
Peter has a mission.
He is suppose to go the torture museum of Saddams there and take photos.
I hope? Maybe that was my mission and since I failed, I transferred it to him.
Nonetheless. They wrote an article in the Baghdad Bulletin on this, and I cannot find it.
PETER WRITES FROM SULAMANIA
HE WROTE:
You know, I've seen more female hair (unfortunately all on the top of their heads) in the past 36 hours than I have in the previous God-knows-how-long.
See you soon,
ANSWER:
If you get close enough to smell them, and it smells good. I will be right there.
I am not sure women exist in this country.
Justin from Australia. Please come and do a search.
You are one of the world great... Women chaser.
We need some help.
I WILL BE OK
Some of you believe you are being watched.
Most believe that in Astrology and all the mystic crap.
Some of you think a good drug will make you think clearly.
I do not believe any of this crap.
But I do believe in how I feel.
I feel that I am in a good world that like me, and does not want to harm me.
Call it a sense of destiny, or what not, but I do not feel in danger at all.
I am OK, and the world is OK. I am positive though that I am not stupid.
I do not and will not do stupid things. I am not controllable. I will not go along
with a stupid action to be part of the gang. After 7 years on the road.
Only being robbed once for 70 dollars in Thailand.
I am getting that feeling of being the master of this travel thing.
But then again. Who would come to Iraq, if they did not think they could handle the
problems. Plus I think there is probably one of the good Gods watching me.
I have a feeling there are a few bad boy Gods. I am not sure though.
BAGHDAD OR BUST - That will put a chill in my mother
I lived a good life. I have not regets. I live my own dreams.
I made more mistake then needed, but I did a few good things.
So let talk about Danger!
Baghdad is a big city. I probably had enough crime before Saddam supposed to have
released
500,000 prisoner out of the jails
I was told this by a Kurdish man.
I have seen 5 jails on the road to Mosul and 5 jails on the road to Kirkuk.
I took photos. These places are huge. Saddam did not put up with crap.
Any questions and you was in Jail.
So these people are probably in Baghdad.
The you got the Islamic Jihad types.
There is the odd guy that is ex military that has a burr up his butt because
he lost the war, and has no job. So all in all. Why go to this place?
I just want to know.
What percentage want the USA to leave?
I will ride with a man from Erbil. He knows Baghdad.
The danger in Baghdad is the trip from the end of a bus trip or colective taxi to the
hotel. They drop me off at the entrance to Baghdad, and that is where the danger lies.
So by going with Farid. I do not have to do this. Plus if the good hotels are full he
will drive us around until we are safe. Then we just keep our heads down. Stay away
from the UN and their big targets called SUV's. (Toyota Land Cruisers)
Make sure we are not predictable and have a smile. Make some people want to help
protect us. That is done by endearing ourselves with people. Chat and talk with the
locals. They will warn us of any danger.
I am sort of a hard ass about travel sometimes, but most of the time I am surrounded
by people that help me. I meet the best of the best, and have learned to walk away
and be firm with the crazies. I am the one responsible for my life.
It really is not that difficult. But for those of you that think a guy with a machine gun
will protect you. Kiss you ass goodbye. That just gurantees that the crazies think you
are important enough to kill. Be a Hobo.
LETTER FROM READER
A READER WROTE:
My name is REMOVED TO PROTECT THE SILLY. I am a 20 year old student in
Virginia. My passion is for music, literature, and art. However, I am uninspired
by the place I live. Troubles and depression come my way and I blame it
on my locality. I have grown to dislike America and the American dream and
the roles people sacrifice themselves to be a part of. My first hunch is
that I should go to Central America or South America. My education tells me
that some of the most beautiful sites and cultured down-to-earth people
probably live there. I want to be a traveler who inspires people’s creativity
and spreads positivity from place to place. Unfortunately I have been
condemned to this one spot for nearly my entire life. Many of my memories are
painful so I must leave and find peace of mind and see beautiful places and be
a part of ingenious cultures uncorrupted by what corrupts. So I ask you,
an experienced traveler, for your advice. I need to know where to start
my new adventure. Can you point some direction for me? How should I get
there? What will I need to bring? Will I be allowed to cross borders? Is
there a way I can get financial help traveling or any sort of help? (I have
$2000 saved up to do this) What’s the best way for a traveler to keep in
touch with a select kin of people? I anticipate and fully appreciate your
personal reply. Let good times be with you.
ANSWER:
Learn to love yourself before you leave the country.
In Peru you can learn how the piss on your foot.
You can learn how the Europeans will make a smart assed remark at every chance
because you are American.
You can learn how the Mexican guy talk the American girls into sex and then
try to make them a wife to pay the bills.
Ecuadorians just bump into you on the street.
Brazilians like to get drunk in the back of the bus and be obnoxious to women.
You can travel and could leave the USA because you have an American Passport.
Be grateful for what you got, and where you are born.
I have found that we are the only country that has the...
"Amercan Dream."
The rest of the world dreams about America and you see only what is wrong.
Go turn on MTV and stay home. You would not be a good representation of the
country.
Note: 2000 Dollars would last about 1/2 year in South America.
And the women are great.
WHY LISTEN TO OPINIONS
I find that most emails are wanting me to change how I do something or believe I am wrong.
Like a person in the USA telling me how the Iraqi people think...duh, get a life.
There is not many reasons to listen to opinions. I do read all the emails I receive, some are really stupid.
But I try to understand and reply, but when someone just disagrees. Go get you own blog or newsletter.
That is the solution to that. There is a BLOGGER.com link at the bottom of this page.
It is free. You could have hate mail from all the countries of the world. Just think.
I ACCIDENTALLY LEFT A PHOTO ON LINK.
My friend wrote me an was glad I finally gave you a photo.
I thanked her for telling me, and found the photo really quick.
Deleted it. Fame is the rest of them who want to be special.
I just want to earn enough money to travel.
I have never waivered on this. I do this for money.
CRITICIZISM FOR THE USA
Hmmm.
Lets see, there is lots.
We work too much is my first thought.
But you probably want me to talk about Iraq.
I guess the fact that the Soldiers are unfriendly and for the most part act like
low classed and idiots. That is a start.
I generally do not get people started on by saying anything bad about the USA.
In 7 years of travel I have learned. The Europeans have Pe@## envy and they
are looking for a way to get some Americans on their side.
My friend Jack from Canada used to say in Pie de la Cuesta.
"Remember Andy, lots of countries and most have had their ass kicked by the
USA and want some payback. Most have lost wars to the USA."
He would put in the punch for few European countries.
Saying,
"Most of Europe, only knows and is good at getting occupied."
Jack was in the Korean War,
Died a couple of years ago.
But had a good horse sense about diplomacy.
Now for me, I am trying to remeber if anyone from any country besides the USA
has ever even sent a dollar. I do remember a guy from Mexico put 1 dollar on his
credit card.
As for the manners of USA Soldiers. I wrote in my first newsletter in Iraq that they
needed to improve their hellos.
I think the Americans are very stupid to fix the electrical problems for this nation.
They are a rich nation. Set up a government and let them swim.
I am 100 percent sure that the electrical problem were here before the bombs
started. Plus you will have a riot when they get a meter and have to pay.
I think the Americans are stupid for wanting to help so much.
Just do the minimun and get out.
Set up a HUGE military base in the north and the south and protect
this region from the crazies. But stay on the base and let the locals kill each
other, and work out their goverment. South Korea, German, and Japan all
have USA military bases.
NEWSLETTER SENT
I guess the best way to read it is to subscribe... hehehe
Lots of stuff in there. My blog is just me making noise.
The newsletter is a complete thoughts, and the tips.
This week was on travel instincts.
Link is above.
WHO AM I IN IRAQ
Hello,
I am a American first.
I am a Christian Second.
They want to know why I am here.
"I say I am crazy, and I think I may be."
I ask a man today,
"Why cannot the good Muslim people stop the evil ones?
Is evil stronger than your religion?"
He did not like the question.
I was asked all these stupid questions the other night
and they popped on an extra.
"Do you like the Kurdish Women?"
Catch 22. I am screwed on any answer.
If I say yes, they will be jealous and maybe angry.
If I say no, then may think I believe their women are ugly.
I was quick on my feet I said,
"I do not know, there are no women around to say!"
90 percent of my time is looking at men.
What a life. I have better rearrange my travel priorities.
I go to Baghdad on Monday. Only a week more.
I will try to saty one week in Baghdad. Just to be sure that the
Iraqi people are happy to free from Saddam and like the USA.
I am 80 percent sure now, but Baghdad is a different place.
I will then be able to say after one month in Iraq.
CNN and BBC, Aljezeera and all the medias systematically
and premeditatedly positively distort the truth.
BACK IN ERBEL OR ARBIL OR HOWEVER YOU WANT TO SPELL IT
I went to Mosul to pick up 2 articles and a petition and 5 business cards for available hotels.
The had nothing done in my being gone for 7 days. It is more dangerous each time I return.
People learn me and my patterns.
I was lucky and collect 3 more people that live in Mosul that have email address's and speak
some English. I left, enough of waiting for people. They must meet me half way.
THE SITUATION IN IRAQ
Hello,
I sit here on the edge of my bed in Mosul.
It is morning and the noise level in the street is rising
slowly and soon there will be thousands of people on this street.
I am in the Duwasa area. That is all I know really. I believe it is
on the Arab side of the river. I am not sure. I am only sure that this
Hotel is safe and the people that live in this Hotel are for the most part
good people. The manager and staff are smilers. They welcome me and are
now my friend.
I sleep well for the most part. I am not going to get up and tell you
a dream or stupid story. I just wake up and it is another day. But I have
returned to Mosul for a reason and I want to accomplish my goal.
I did not sleep well last night. I am worried. I want to somehow tell the
world what I hear and feel is the truth about Iraq and its people. Yes, I do
not know Baghdad, but I do think I know now Kurdistan and Mosul.
Mosul is the second biggest city in the country after Baghdad.
It is a mess. Normal big city crap. Too many cars. Too much noise.
But it is safe and for the most part. Honest. This is strange. I would
expect to have to worry about being robbed. This is the least of my worries.
The place is safe for me.
This is just a big city in the world. The same as any of the cities I have
entered in 7 years of travel. Nothing special. That is not true. These
people are in love with me and my country. The USA.
My worry is that I will not be able to prove this, or say this in a way
that you my readers will believe me. I have a camera, video camera, and computer
to help me record the truths.
I think I know people too well, and I feel helpless. I come up with methods
or stategies on how I will prove this. I think about sitting in the chicken
place downstairs with my friend that speaks English very well. I maybe could
turn on the tape, and let it run for one hour. We would walk into the street
an grab a person. Ask him 2 questions?
What do you think of Saddam?
What do you think of the USA?
My friend could translate when needed.
I know the answers would be 99 percent not liking Saddam and 97 percent liking the USA.
I know those percentages are high, but I would be lying if I said 95.
It would look better or more truthful if I said, 95, but that is not the truth.
These people do not like Saddam.
But I am jaded and sad. I know people too well. I could do anything and they
already have an opinion. It is formed by BBC and CNN. It is just too stupid.
The media is the God. It runs peoples lives and arranges their thoughts.
It make the whole world fight and angry with each other. It takes a sniper
and make a copy. It is the most despicable form of murder possible.
The provoking of controversy for money. To incite people to hate.
So, what can I do. I can try to tell you the truth.
I suppose the bible says, "Let your yes be yes, and your no be no."
This means. I will say that the USA is doing the correct thing in Iraq.
The people here hate Saddam and love the USA.
Why am I having this debate. I come from Indiana. I have a radio media pass
and call up this radio weekly. I feel used and abused. They do not care what I say
and they do not want to search for the truth. I am sick of this. They ask questions
and have an idea of how to say the question so that I can only answer in one way.
They stop me when I start to tell the truth. I do not trust them.
They are not bad people, but they have done this so long, they cannot stop themselves.
They only think of how to make it sound big and grand. The truth is boring.
I have made a decision to stop talking on the radio. They are not trying to help
and I am not helping anyone. Entertaining them maybe. But I do not want to be
the voice that entertains them for 10 minutes every wednesday at 8:35 am.
Last week they did not even remember I was suppose to call.
This make me very angry. Here I am in a city where the 1 percent that does not
like me wants to kill me. They prove it every week. They bombed the UN two days
ago. The kill people like me daily. Well a lot.
The radio station WOWO is so self centered that they cannot remember that I am
going to great effort and cost to do this. I am not paid, and the page proves
that it does not even go up 1 percent in people visiting. I could not prove that
one person has even been on my page or joined the newsletter. It is not even a
good advertisement of my webpage. It is worthless.
I am going to stop talking on the radio. I do not want to be famous, and
this is not doing my goal. To tell the truth.
I am sad and very angry. I wish to make them feel guilty for what they do,
but I know how this work. I am talking to a black hole. No one cares and
no one wants to hear the truth. They want a soap opera. A fantasy of bullshit
that will make them famous. The do not feel any sense of duty to try to tell
the truth. They only want to be famous and cause and talk about controversy.
But I am the prostitute that is helping them. The unpaid correspondent that
they infer they have sent to this country. What bullshit. I go to them
and they know they can manipulate to the way it is presented, and I have not
control. I do have control. I will stop.
I suppose in the end I was talking on the radio to help make my mother happy.
She has had her time. She has gone to the coffee shop and said,
"That is my boy, he is in Iraq."
So I made the most important people in my life a little happy.
My family. There is nothing else in the end. A family and a few friends.
I get frustrated. I have people write me long and asshole letters.
Telling me to not ask for donations. I say, but somehow I have to pay.
They just want me to do this for nothing. No pay. I pay, and they get to feel
happy that they get this guy to give them something for nothing. I have had people
read my newsletter now for 3 years or more. They do not feel that it is worth
1 dollar. That is what I ask and they think I am bad for asking.
What a crock of shit. I give and they take. This is the new world we live in
where everyone takes and feels power by getting something for nothing.
Well I helped you asshole. I gave you something for nothing. You got what
you wanted. I sit here in this hotel. Telling a story of people and me.
You listen and read and pay nothing. Sitting in your safe place while I get
to leave the room knowing that it is possible that a person walk up behind me
today and put a gun a my head and I will have my brains all over the person
in front of me. This is reality. So feel guilty if it happens, and feel
like you sat around and did nothing and got something for nothing.
Because you are the new world. The takers. Generation X, that lives
and dies by a commericial, soap opera, the next BBC and CNN report that tells
you a lie. I am here. In Iraq. They love the USA, and hate Saddam.
That is all I want you to know. How can I get you to listen?
Goodbye WOWO. You suck.
So do you people that read this. You suck.
You are selfish and a taker. You prove it to me everyday.
(Sorry Mom and Dad about the cuss words.)
Oh, I almost forgot I came back to pick up a petition and a couple
of articles that the English scholars were suppose to write. They
was going to get me 5 business cards of good hotels for the next backpacker
that come. They have done nothing. So I so far have come back to Mosul
for nothing. What do you think? They are the same as the rest of the world.
The sit around and complain, but they do not get off their ass either.
They want the USA to save them. 40 percent of me say to let them die.
60 percent says to say stay. The 60 percent is only because it is the right
thing to do, and here is a President of the the USA. Becoming the most
hated man on earth for all of this. A piece of gravel in the middle of nowhere.
I will give them the same advice, I gave the people of Bolvia.
"Start walking and keep walking until you are in a better place."
So, I feel worthless today. I cannot change the world.
All I do is make noise. I will do my best to not get shot today.
I think there is a very small chance. About the same as walking down
the street in the Black section of the city I live at midnight.
Oops...I should say the high crime section. Why do people want me
to lie. The Black section of my city is dangerous. That does not mean
I think or think badly of blacks. It is just the truth. The most dangerous
thing you can do anymore is tell th truth. It gets you nowhere and could
get you killed. So go out and have a fantasy today. That is what you want.
I will try my best to get these Iraq English scholar to stop telling me
who they are and do what they said they was going to do. I gave them 4 extra
days to finish this, and they have had plenty of time. I leave on Saturday.
What they do with their lives is their responsibility. I hope they take
this opportunity. But if not, that is their choice. The tell me they are
men of letter. I am not sure I understand. But if that means they write letter
then I should have the petition and the to letters to publish on my webpage
in my hand. Why does everyone need a prompting. I am me, and I have a life.
I do not want to save them. I want to help them save themselves. I do my
part and they do their part.
Well. You can see I am not in a good mood today.
I am in a country that is hot and dry. Full of crazy people.
Everyone is happy that Saddam is gone, they all love America and
want a free trip there and keep asking me to take them.
The do nothing to help themselves and the same as the USA people do.
The all wait for George W. Buss to save them. I think they all need
to get a life and save themselves. I do not need you. I want you.
I will survive whether you read this or not. I could care less.
I am responsible for me. Plus I like to meet a few women and listen
to good conversation. They keep their women under tents and call it religion.
Get a life. If you call that love you are crazy also.
So today. Life is good. I will go out and do more good things then bad.
You can sit on your butt and surf, while you are suppose to be working.
You are not doing me a favor by reading this.
I will tell you again. I know you are slow.
I am positive.
They hate Saddam and love the USA.
George W. Bush is doing the right thing.
But in the end. The people of the USA are doing the right thing.
Saving these people ass.
Thursday, August 21, 2003
BAGHDAD ON MONDAY
I have arranged with a business guy in Arbil to go with him on Monday to Baghdad. He has to go for business, and knows the city very well. So a perfect person. It will be a good trip. I think that Peter is coming along, but this morning he was going to go see Farid and come to my hotel. But I met with Farid the minute his shop opened and then left by colective taxi for Mosul. But then again Peter is British. I have not known the traveler types to get up that early... Wake up Pete.
MOSUL MY FRIEND
I am back in Mosul. It takes time to walk the streets. I must stop and shake hands and say hello to all my friends. It is great.
I will meet up with the English Professors and collect their articles. I am hoping that they can arrange a trip to Tikrit for me with a friend that is a taxi driver. This is a very difficult trip and I need to be extra careful.
Wednesday, August 20, 2003
THE RADIO STORY
Hello,
When I first decided to come to Iraq, the only people that were allow to enter were Journalist
and a few other exceptions. So I went and got a media pass. I was helped by a radio station in
Fort Wayne, Indiana called WOWO. It is an AM talk radio. They was very quick to help.
Now I do not get paid anything from them, and do not want paid so the deal is good for me
in a way and for them very good.
So today is wednesday and I am supposed to call them every week at 8:35 AM Fort Wayne, time.
That is 5:35 PM Iraq time and the task is quite daunting. I must come to a city a day ahead.
Make sure the telephone system works. Enter the place and test it in some manner. I ask the
questions such as.. do you know how to call the USA. Now if they know English I may make progress.
If they do not it can be frustrating. Now to time this call to the second is not possible.
Here in Erbel they had 5 clocks on the wall, none of them correct. I hedge my bets and called.
The guy does not care that I want to call at exactly 5:33. I had to holler at him today.
"Try again!"
This is frustrating. I have lots of experience in the idiosyncracies of other cultures.
Sometimes there is a temptation to say the idiocy of other cultures, but let me finish the story.
So I call the Radio Station today.
I have e-mailed multiple times, plus when I was in the USA I called them and talked them
and emailed them also and tried my best to say. This is not a local call.
The one person gave me a 800 number. I said OK and thought.. wow!
Today I called,
They did not know I was calling!
So when I have the temptation to berate the local idiosyncracies or idiocies.
I know we are the same.
BOMB IN BAGHDAD
I may be on the other side of the planet from a lot of people, but I am still very aware of the current news.
In many ways I am bored for most of the day, and take a break to surf the internet or sit in my 1 star hotel
that is posing as a 4 star hotel and watching CNN. So I get to watch rerun upon rerun of the bombing
of the United Nations in Baghdad and little else. BBC and CNN are the only English stations. So very
hard to not be up on current events.
My opinion is that this is PAID mercenaries by Saddam or the Islamic Jihad crazies.
I do not think they can spend the money after they kill themselves, but their families are happy.
NEWSLETTER PROBLEM
Short of setting up a bed in the Internet Cafe. I am going to have a big problem sending the letter today.
I have 1/2 the information published and just way too many headaches. Plus I am traveler and only like
to be on the internet for a couple of hours a day. It is expensive and hinders travel fun.
PHILOSOPHY OF THORNTREE ON LONELY PLANET
Me and Peter was having a discussion about the Lonely Planet Forum called the Thorntree.
It a place to ask questions, and maybe get answer. In theory it is very good, the problem
is there are people lurking around making comments, and giving advice that is bad.
Sometimes they are business owner that will say something incorrect to sell their Hotel, Tour, or whatever.
This is very annoying to me, and I normally do not use the Thorntree while on the road.
It is just too time consuming and full of misleading advice and also people that are obnoxious.
It ia great idea and works. But could be a huge problem for the novice traveler if you believe
everthing that is said. Me an Peter have been trying to counter some advice that appear to be
a outright lie about the border of Iraq being closed.
As best I can tell. They are all open.
MORE INTERNET SLOWNESS
Hello,
If anyone tries to write me and I do not reply quickly, be patient.
The internet has taken a fall in Erbel for the last 2 days.
I have no idea what the problem is...?
I returned here because the internet was good.
Now.. who knows.
PETER IN ERBIL
The Brit arrived in Erbil.
The perfect traveler for Iraq. Extremely friendly and talkative.
He will talk with anyone. This is needed. A person here need to be the first
to say hello. I have no worries about him. He will do well.
I tried to convince him that he needs to go to Baghdad ahead of me
and blazen a clear cheap trail. He seems to think I should go first.
Therre has been some fun Brit - USA discussions.
I believe in the end we both agree. Both countries are good and bad.
At the same time, but generally trying to be good.
Monday, August 18, 2003
OPTIONS ON GOING TO BAGHDAD.
There are a few ways to go to Baghdad.
1. Bus.
2. Colective Taxi.
3. Private Taxi.
4. Go with friend I would meet in the north, but lives in Baghdad.
5. I suppose I could fly, but not an option.
6. Military Apache Helicopter (In my dreams only)
7. Caravan of Military Hummers.
8. Caravan of UN and Granola for lunch bunch, save the world types.
My choices are only:
1. Bus.
2. Colective Taxi.
3. Private Taxi.
4. Go with friend I would meet in the north, but lives in Baghdad.
The others are too dangerous. Well, not the Apache.
But I am dreaming there.
I will probably opt on the collective Taxi. This is so far the most normal way.
You walk up to "Garage" and say. Baghdad.
A guy sets you up in a taxi that almost full.
You decide on the price, and leave.
THE NOT NORMALCONCEPT
I will try to pay the taxi to take me directly to the next hotel in Baghdad.
I am telling you about a future trip in a week or less or more.
Tikrit is on the way. I would love to stop in Tikrit, but that is an organizational headache.
I may or may not get Tikrit done.
MY FIRST PERSON THAT DOES NOT LIKE THE USA
I was so excited to meet this guy I ran right to the internet to publish this in my blog.
There is a guy in my Hotel that does not like the USA and wants to go home.
I have been in Iraq for about 2 weeks, and this is my first person to encounter that does
not like the USA and shows it.
I stopped in the lobby of my Hotel to sit with my friend the owner of Shereen Palace.
He could be manager, but he seems like the owner. He knows about 5 words of English
and I know about 5 words of Kurdish. But we sit together daily and share a Tea.
He is a great guy.
He is a good host and invites people to sit down, shakes their hands and make
them at home. He is about 65 year old is my guess.
Well, I to go and sit down with him. There is a man sitting already with him.
The owner waves his hand in a very small way, but the staff immediately takes
care and brings me a Chi or Tea.
No the guy looks at me hard and says,
"What you do?"
This is good English in this country. Just the minimal number or words.
I say,
"I have webpage."
Then I say,
"Tourist."
He nods his head, and acts like he understands.
I have not had anybody understand the word "Webpage" yet, so
I know he is full of it.
He ask me where I am from, and says,
"Texas."
I say,
"Indiana"
Pointing at an imaginary map in the air.
I point at Chicago and say,
"Chicago."
I point at an imaginary mapy in the air at Detroit.
Lots of Iraq people in Detroit, so they know this place.
I say,
"Detroit."
Then I point in between and say,
"Indiana."
He is nodding his head, and is not the kind of person to admit he does
not understand, and being that I already think him a complete A@#$H24
Why would I care?
He still wants to know what I am doing.
I say,
"Take photos."
To be polite, and being my friend is next to me, and he is talking
wih the gentleman, I figure I should ask him,
"Where from?"
He says,
"Baghdad"
I say,
"I go Baghdad."
He shake his head and says,
"No good"
Then the clincher.
"Because America."
I am thinking... hmmm. Let me describe the guy.
He is like a fat policeman from Mexico that wants a bribe.
Arrogant and obnoxious. Probably has a little...?
But this guy has on the white typical south Iraq dress.
The long type shirt. Now this is not a pretty sight.
He must weigh at least 300 pounds.
Unshaved and red eyes, like his blood pressure is up.
I sit and drink my Tea.
This is a no win situation, so who cares.
He talks with the owner, and says,
"Go back America."
I say,
"Why?"
He stares. I wish the owner could have understood, he would have died
of embarrassment for this mans actions.
I ask him,
"Why Erbil?"
He says,
"Global Oil."
It took about 5 time of making him say this before I was sure I understood.
He works for Global Oil.
I was tempted to say,
"Are you up here to blow up the pipelines?"
But he was a soft target, he has big chip on his shoulder and was fat.
I made him repeat,
"Global Oil"
Let me tell you this. People from Baghdad and Arab are not really welcome
in Kurdistan. The let them come up, but I am sure they watch them closely.
The Arabs and the Kurdish have a long term dispute.
They are uncovering mass graves in Mosul right now of the Kurdish people
that Saddam killed. So this guy was suspect.
Well. I waited around for quite awhile. Just to let him know that...
But I was excited.
There has been no clear opinion, even in Mosul of people that do not
like the USA. This is the first.
There was 2 ex soldiers that said,
"Bush Shoe." But nobody says anything about the USA.
So I met my first.
Well... Global Oil?
BRING A FRIEND
I think to do Iraq and the Middle East you should
bring a companion. To me the worst thing about
these countries are not the heat. It the idea that
I have to always talk to men, which only think
about football. (Soccer) I sometimes think that is
the reason I am not keen on going to England.
An oversupply of men talking about football.
WHY I AM NOT A JOURNALIST.
There are some fine lines in life.
The others are quite clear.
This is easy.
A journalist lies for money.
I tell the truth for nothing.
A good traveler would never steer you in the
wrong direction. This makes it hard to even
say I bridge on being a travel writer.
Maybe the best way to say it is...
I have a group email that is hemorrhaging.
GRUMPY AND F#$$ YOU
I had two interesting Taxi drivers in the last
week. Upon leaving Erbil for Sulamania the taxi driver
somehow knew the phrase F#$$ YOU.
He started saying this as the taxi left.
When I left, the whole hotel staff came out to
say goodbye, then a group starts to form around the
taxi. So here I am getting into a taxi. The driver
is saying F#$$ YOU and pointing at me, and then saying
F#$$ YOU. Geeesh... please stop.
I hope that no one really understand this and thinks
it is me. He said this the whole way to the "Garage"
as the call the bus or taxi stop. Then we get out
and he starts to tell all the people at the "Garage."
I can say though he did a great job, and helped to
make sure I was safe, and paying the proper price.
GRUMPY
I get to Sulamania. Grumpy is my driver. I start to
say Grumpy please smile, and he just keeps being in
a bad mood. He takes me to the wrong hotel.
Luckily there was a person from Canada, that had
returned to visit his family. He spoke great English
and helped me turn Grumpy around for the right hotel.
He even called the Hotel. They said they was full and
there was no rooms.
I said to just get Grumpy pointed toward the city center.
The minute he got close to a hotel he dropped me off
and then left without a care in the world. The direct
opposite of F#$$ YOU.
I visited a few of the local hotels. Too much for the
type of room. The was 40 Kurdish Dinar rooms, or about
4 dollars. They wanted 100 Dinars so I walked to the
hotel I wanted in the start. Even thought they was
full, they mysteriously found a room when I sat down
and waited. It appears that the Hotels in Iraq are screening
all their residents. They say no, and it becomes yes...
Maybe. If you get no, and it remains no.
Could be a personal problem.
HOW DO I KNOW FEAR
I have been thinking.
How do I know if I am afraid?
Good question, but really is not that easy to decide.
I mean there are some clear reasons.
Like I will not go anywhere or do not leave a city.
The next would be too quiet or not smiling.
How about sleeping too much.
I definitely do not panic easily.
I can tell you none of these is me.
Natasha said something about the Male hormones raging
when under stress or fear. I think this may be true.
But as long as the women are dressed the way they are,
then I will have 0 problems.
At least the girls in the Islamic area of lower
Thailand would flirt. No play whatsoever here.
The again. I am probably more afraid of women then
of Iraq.
OLD CHEVY IN IRAQ
The Germans and the Japanese have the Iraqi car market sown up.
This is the most recent car I have seen from the USA.
Time to nap
To say the least. Iraq is a dry and hot place.
Great place to wash your clothes by hand.
They dry very fast. But a few hours in a crowded taxi full of men.
Air blowing in the window that feels like a hair dryer pointed at you
and the drying of my eyes has made it time to go and sleep.
Wanted to touch base with the world.
Don't worry family, friends, and Mom.
The world is a good place. I am sure.
COMMUNICATION IS OPEN WITH MEN OF LETTERS
I left Mosul to try to induce the "Men of Letters" to write me an email.
Natasha girl from the USA has been helping to coordinate.
They wrote back today.... Woopee!
This may sound strange, but getting people to email is difficult
These men are not 20. They are in their 50's.
Not on top of the internet world and to say the least.
Saddam kept that word under his thumb for the last 15 years or so.
So we have success.
Now I will return to Mosul to help them publish some articles.
Find some more people to correspond.
WEBPAGE IN THE PLANNING
I am thinking, and working with Natasha to help them get their own
page to be a voice to the world.
Donations are helpful at this point.
I have a lot on my plate, and will need some help.
I am sure the Iraqi people in the USA will help.
SOON BACK TO MOSUL
I will go to Mosul again.
Probably stay for 4 days. I really do not know.
Then to Tikrit if possible. Then to Baghdad.
LARGE FLAME NORTH OF KIRKUK
One reason I wanted to stop at Kirkuk is to check out the big fire that was shooting in the air.
I had taken photo of it the day before on the way to Sulamani.
It looked like one of them oil well on fire, but who knows?
MAN FIGHTS TO HELP ME AT BUS STOP IN KIRKUK
I took the taxi to the "Garage" as they call the bus stops in all the cities in Iraq so far.
This is really a spot on the road where the taxis congregate to find passengers.
Once a taxi has a full load it leaves.
I was having too many taxi driver that saw me as a Dollar sign bugging me.
I had to say not to 3 of them. One wanted me to pay 40 Kurdish Dinars.
Another wanted money in Saddam Dinars. It was totally hectic.
They kept saying follow me. This is not a good idea until you know the price.
I raise my hand, held my thumb, index finger, and middle finger togother,
Said,
"Parah" or money in Kurdish.
The man would not answer.
I say,
"Parah" he will not answer.
He wants to open the trunk or boot as the English call it, so he can help me put my
backpack into the trunk. I will not and he is frustrated, then tells me a price...
I just walk away... Ali Babba and trying to gouge the price.
Plus I want to share a taxi for safety.
This happens a couple of times.
I AM ADOPTED
The good people come out of the woodwork then and start to help.
The say to wait here.
One man buys me a PEPSI... (Send money Pepsi)
No cost and he buys. The taxi driver earlier did not want paid. I paid anyway.
THE FIGHT
A colective taxi pulls up. It has almost a full load. The man says to follow him.
He stops the taxi.
An Arab guy with a beanie and a casper outfit tries to jump in front of me and
everyone to get in the taxi. This man Grabs him and pulls him out of the taxi.
The get in a big argument. The man will not let off, and the whole group is going
to grab him to make sure I get in the taxi. This is the welcome of Iraq in a nutshell.
They want you to be happy first, we are their guest.
He makes sure the price is only 8 Kurdish dinar, and grabs the key from the driver
so I can put my backpack in the trunk. I shake the mans hand,
Touch my heart to say. "My friend"
This guy was fighting to make sure that I was welcome.
It touches me so much how happy these people are that the Americans are here.
They need more people like me to come an talk with them.
I ask an Arab boy that spoke English in the back of the taxi on the way to Erbil.
He first has said,
"I love America."
I waited a little, did not react.
I said,
"Why?"
He said,
"Land of the Free."
He had to get that from Television, but that is nonetheless what he said.
He was an electrical engineer that works on the Oil Rigs going to Erbil to buy
some clothes and a small vacation. Maybe 25 years old. I took photos.
Will be in newsletter.
BACK IN ERBIL NOW
I first went to Kirkuk. There was some form of new on BBC about a pipeline being blown up in the area.
The taxi driver in Kirkuk took me to a very expensive hotel. 35 Dollars a night U.S.
He spoke a enough English to finally say, that the bomb explode on the road between Kirkuk and Belgie.
It was suppose to be 60 kilometers from Kirkuk.
So I opted to come on to Erbil. It was still early in the day.
Kirkuk is a mixed town. Arabs and Kurdish. I have the one Hotel business card and will post a photo of it soon.
The taxi driver said that the "Saddam Regime" was in Kirkuk.
There is nobody that like Saddam. Even the Arabs in that share the colective taxi with me do not like Saddam.
But there is a mafia like association obviously that helps Saddam. A dictatorship is more like a mafia then a
government. Better to understand it in this manner. They work under fear, and manipulation.
Unfortunately the world press always put it under some social cause.
The world press is always saying there is a rebellion or civil war in Colombia.
This is total bullshit. It is just the Coca business trying to keep out the press and
world powers so their Mafia can run their business.
Sunday, August 17, 2003
SATELLITE CONNECTION IN SULAMANI
I do not like Satellite connections.
Sometimes they work good, and other times they just glich up all the photos and make stop spots on the hard drive.
I was on the Island of Koh Pha Ngan when used the first... (Thailand)
No the first was in Corico, Bolivia, but that really sucked.
Nonetheless, I am on another and it is bad.
HUMANITARIAN PACKAGES 60 CENTS US
Look what I found in the market at Erbil, Iraq.
A guy selling lots of Humanitarian packages.
I have no idea why the people around Erbil need them?
I ate the peanut butter and crackers.
The raisins, and 2 oatmeal cookies and heaved the rest.
I took photos, and soon will post. Subscribe to newsletter above.
I send all the links for each week in one place in the newsletter. Easier.
These guys here in Erbil probably do not want to get peanut butter on the
seats of their Mercedes or BMW's. This place is like Dohuk, full of Mercedes and BMW's.
THE PHOTO WILL HAVE TO WAIT TIL TOMMORROW - BAD CONNECTION
LOTS OF, LOTS OF...
NO CARAVAN TIP
I was talking this morning with the man from the USA that works
at A.I.D. at breakfast. Discussing the pros and cons of transportation
in Iraq. We both agree that a Caravan of cars is dangerous, and that
an older car and not these brand new SUV's is better. He is in with
an Iraqi person that has a 6 year old car.
The Caravan is an obvious target if you are wanting to make a statement.
It is hard to know when a normal taxi or bus is a good target.
I have mentioned many times in my newsletter over the years that to
be in a rental car or any type of vehicles that is special brings
too much attention to you, and makes you a target for theft.
In most countries the theft or robbery could be a policeman.
The Jakarta bombing is the proof in the pudding that high profile
is a target.
___________________________________________________________
KEBOB IS ON FLAT SKEWERS
The Kebob her is cooked with a long flat skewer.
It is about 3/4 inch wide andy 24 inches long.
They used the same type of skewer in Turkey.
There seems to be Lamb, Chicken and Beef Kebobs.
___________________________________________________________
SULAMANI HAS A LIQUOR STORE ACROSS THE STREET
I am in the luxury area of town.
Not really my choice. The hotel next to me is 60 dollars a night.
Mine is 11 dollars USA.
But there is a liquor store across the street.
Muslims do not drink... hehehe
The other day I ask a man,
"Kurdish?"
And pointing at him.
He shakes his no.
Then says,
"Christian."
OK, he lives in the Kurdish area or Erbil.
But he does not call himself Kurdish.
So Kurdistan appears to be about religion more than location
and any color of skin or physical characteristics.
___________________________________________________________
I TELL JJ HE LOOKS LIKE A SOLDER HE SAYS I LOOK LIKE CIA
Or an expatriate that forgot to go home...
JJ the guy I met in Erbil was young and in good shape.
He could easily be a soldier. The funny part though is a lot
of the soldiers look out of shape. I think they are national guard.
He said I look like CIA.
But a soldier said,
"There was a couple of CIA In Mosul.
Real fat, and the Soldier asked,
How do they run?"
I would think the CIA would be somewhere...?
I think they are in hiding.
That is out on the streets, walking the markets.
The only foreign people I see is Soldiers.
___________________________________________________________
LANGUAGES HELP FOR KURDISTAN
There is about 4 major dialects as best I can figure in Kurdistan.
This information came from the owner of the Shanan Hotel, plus he
is also the owner of the film processing place directly across the street from the
Shereen Hotel in Erbil.
I am putting a mark above his door as a source of information.
He speak 5 languages. His English is good. Not excellent.
4 LANGUAGES OR DIALECTS OF THE KURDS AND ROUGHLY WHERE.
LUR
Iraq - Kanekin
Iran - Kesershirin, Mehababad, Kiran Shah
SURAN
Iraq - Kerkuk, Sulayminya, Erbil
BADINAN
Iraq - Duhuk, Zaho, Wan
Turkey - Wan, Marding, Urfa, Gazanna
Quran
Iraq - Hawrenan, Benjwin, Helabia
Iran - Sine - Bukan, Bana
THIRD HOBO CROSSES THE SILOPI TURKEY BORDER
A READER JUST SENT THIS TO ME
He wrote:
Turkey to Iraq border crossing.
I crossed the above border about three hours ago. It wasn't a big deal. Here's what happens.
The nearest Turkish town to the border that I crossed (there may be others) is called Silopi. It is 15 km's from the actual border. The border facility is called Habur. You can walk those 15 km's if you want to, however, it is really hot right now. As far as I could tell, there is no local bus. Apparently, there are no locals using that border, hence no bus. You can probably hitch-hike without too much problem. There are plenty of lorries (trucks) going that way. If you do take a lorry, you will probably spend quite a few hours at either side of the border as there were literally hundreds of lorries queueing up to cross the border. If you get a ride in a car, then you just whiz straight to the front of the queue.
Personally, I ended up taking a cab. I figured that he could assit me in all the running around. I had heard all these stories about the difficulty of the crossing. I was told that there was a heavy Turkish military checkpoint. That consisted of one guy in very casual gear who asked me why I was going into Iraq. I told him and he just said "enjoy it". I saw no heavy weaponry, no tanks, sod all actually. I was also told that the Turkish passport control was very hit and miss and faxes had to be sent from Ankara and God-knows what else. It was very very simple. As was the Kurdistan/Iraqi side. You do need to take one photocopy of your passport though. If you are press, you also need a letter from your Embassy confirming that fact. I only saw one American at the border and he had just left the toilet and was going into an office where, apparently, there are other Americans. I saw no Americans at all between the border and Dohuk (from where I am writing this).
On reflection, I could have done the whole thing for free if I had wanted, except the bits on the Kurdistan/Iraqi side.
Once at the border, it's just the normal rush of people etc etc. The border is always open, as is the bank there. Once you leave the Turkish side, it's about 500 metres to the Kurdistan/Iraqi side. That facility is called Ibrahim Allir (or something like that). Once you do your stuff there, there are taxis right there or if you walk about 100 metres, there is a bus stand. It costs 1 Dinar (about 10 cents) to go to Zohak which is about 10 km's away. From there, it's 5 Dinar by bus to Dohuk or 10 Dinar by shared taxi.
ONE THING: I have a British passport and perhaps, that made things a little easier. No visa is needed, no AIDS test PLUS I EVEN HAVE ISRAELI STAMPS IN MY PASSPORT. Guess what? no worries at all. How times change!!!
Last night, by co-incidence, I had dinner with a Turkish customs officer. He told me that some nationalities (the non-Western ones) sometimes have to get approval from Ankara. That involves going somewhere there and having them fax permission to the border folks. However, things change and what is so today may be different tomorrow.
I hope this un-biased and impartial (kudos to Sarhot) information assists.
CARVANS AND CONVOYS RECOMMENDED
Thanks to the UN and other NGO for being targets.
I will go in the bus here in Iraq, or by colective taxi.
Safer.
So you can be the targets, and I can be the Hobo... Under the Radar.
Get some horse sense. The world is about rich and poor.
Brand new SUV's is not poor.
JJ IN ARBIL
JJ. The guy from the USA that arrived in Arbil is still in Arbil.
He is a California guy that now lives in Brooklyn, New York and he has the personality
that goes along with those cultures. I be Indiana Hoosier and people make fun.
That is OK, while they be thinkin I be stupid. I do the Hobo and steal their apple pie.
Kidding but sometimes it is good to pull a person leg. I did not pull his JJ's leg.
I did tell him to get an earlier start in the morning. This is not the place to be arriving
at your destination city late. The hotels are all full. It is boom time for the hotels in Iraq.
VIRGIN SPAM IN MY EMAIL BOX
I sometimes wonder if the spam that I receive knows me and is taunting. I am receiving a glut of emails on virgins and other types of nebulous things. This is "No Women" territory. What am I doing here!?
WHAT TO DO IN SULAMANI?
There is a lake close to here and my guidbook says you can water ski.
That is tempting just to see, but I am going to go back to Arbil, then over to Mosul, and
prepare for my trip to Baghdad. This city probably has something, but has a too big city feel to me.
ARRIVED IN SULAMANI
In a large long and stretching city close to Iran. Hot and big.
Not very interesting so far. May leave tommorrow unless the world picks up.
I have been told to go here over and over. I think they want me to go to a city
that is closer to being western. This is always a problem. People tend to point you
back to your own culture. They either point at the 5 star hotels or the most modern.
I got it here.
Modern and full of people.. aagh. Mosul come back please.
Bottle of whiskey in the fridge at the hotel.
Saturday, August 16, 2003
MY REASONS FOR TRAVEL
I talked with two Americans today. JJ a 24 year old backpacker who wants to learn about Iraq for good reason.
I also talked with an older gentleman that works for A.I.D.
He is taking a bus tour of Iraq. Came from Basra in the very south and simple said,
"You found out it is not as dangerous as the television portrays."
The way I understand it, he just got on a bus and started touring the country.
I just hang around in cities and go do something when the urge strikes.
Most people have an idea of what they are doing, and why.
I am never sure why I do something.
USA TELEPHONE DIRECTORY FOR IRAQ PEOPLE
Iraq people have the freedom not to find their relatives that escaped to the USA and other places.
They are trying to find the telephone number.
Here is a link to help them find their families telephone number in the USA
http://www.whitepages.com/person
LONG TERM THOUGHTS - Amman - Paris - India
This culture is a little boring and very modern for my taste.
I am usually in the more remote type countries. Other than
the heavy Moslem culure it is pretty developed.
What is not developed it there riddance of class system
and a prevalent clannish attitude on religions.
This can be very dangerous when a person is defined the first
minute by their religion. This is not tolerance and open mindness.
Not asking the question is tolerance. They want to know for a reason.
So their buildings and roads are pretty highly developed. (Includes Mosul)
Their traditions, religion, and culture are more underdeveloped.
I am thinking of going for Amman, Jordan and flying to Paris.
Then to India, then to Tibet.
I would really like to know if the flights from Amman are cheap.
Istanbul is very very cheap to anywhere.
MY BIGGEST GOAL IS ACCOMPLISHED
I wanted to find out what the Iraq people thought of the USA.
Mosul is in Saddam territory. I spent my whole time with Arabs.
The Kurdish and the Arabs like the USA. The do not like Saddam.
I have met a enough people from Bahdad to know that they are
pretty much the same.
This war stopped their paycheck. 40 percent were in the Army.
The electricity was already bad. It is bad here in Arbil and they
did not even get bombed. I am going to write a newsletter on
this issue. The USA will be in big trouble if they fix the electricity.
They could riot if this is not handled correctly.
SULAMANIA TOMMORROW - THEY TELL ME TO GO ALL THE TIME
I am off again to Sulamania. I believe it is four hours away.
This is the place to be by the in crowd of Iraq.
Everyone recommends I go.
That means... I really am not looking forward to it.
I like the out of the way place. Maybe Kirkuk.
Suppose to be hot and dusty, and possibly dangerous. Sounds more interesting.
JJ ARRIVED
Nice to see another person that speaks English as their native language.
Borra with a Mexico RRR is wanting me to go to a party tonight.
I don't know. He is the guy that works at the reception desk of the hotel.
Friday, August 15, 2003
HOBO photo
There are a couple of pictures of me in the group below. But... hehehe?
I learned how to wrap a scarf around my head in one and another with the Scholars.
Alway wanted to know how they did that scarf thing.
TONS OF PHOTOS OF MOSUL AND ERBIL IRAQ
RIGHT CLICK ON LINK - THEN CLICK ON OPEN IN NEW WINDOW - DO THIS TO 2 OR 3 AT ONE TIME
I will send in newsletter a better version. Subscribe above then you can read some explanations
and espcially the explanation of the "TELL." One of the worlds oldest coninously inhabited communiteis.
Erbil
http://www.hobotraveler.com/120mosul01.shtml
http://www.hobotraveler.com/120mosul01_2.shtml
http://www.hobotraveler.com/120mosul02.shtml
http://www.hobotraveler.com/120mosul03.shtml
http://www.hobotraveler.com/120mosul04.shtml
http://www.hobotraveler.com/120mosul05.shtml
http://www.hobotraveler.com/120mosulhotels.shtml
http://www.hobotraveler.com/120arbil06.shtml
http://www.hobotraveler.com/120arbil07.shtml
http://www.hobotraveler.com/120arbil07_2.shtml
http://www.hobotraveler.com/120arbilman.shtml
http://www.hobotraveler.com/120erbilhotels.shtml
INVITATIONS TO BAGHDAD
I was sitting at breakfast. Included with the Hotel.
A person gives me his business card and invited me to stay with him in Baghdad.
I am walking back to my room. The neighboring room ask me where I am from,
He invites me to come to Baghdad to visit him.
This is becoming a pattern. The hospitality here is great.
DISTRIBUTION OF WEALTH
Saddam distributed the Oil wealth by making 40 percent of the people work for his military and security.
I keep thinking. Charity just makes people turn into beggars.
Maybe best to make free
Electricity.
University
Roads
Internet
Water
Large Police force.
It will be a class society of the very rich and the very poor if the wealth is not distributed equally.
Fairness is not a normal concept in developing country. They do not see that often.
NATASHA on my spelling. There is hope for me.
"It is a damn poor mind indeed which can't think of at least two ways to spell any word."
-Andrew Jackson
I sometimes get myself so confused I have 4-5 ways to spell a word.
Erbil is killing me. Erbil Arbil Irbil Erbal Arbal Irbal etc.
I WOULD SAY THAT KURDISTAN IS SAFE FOR BACKPACKERS
Kurdistan poses very little problem. It is probably as safe as any developing country.
Beware though, the country has very high standards for living, but the evolution of the social structure is still low.
They operate on some strong religious and cultural taboos. It may appear they do not care. But they do.
I would say that Mosul is still for only the most season traveler, but soon OK.
Women should probably not come alone.
WHAT MOM HAS TO SAY ON ME... Calls me a clown...What do you think?
My mother is not an honest critic. She is extremely biased.
She wrote:
I been thinking Andy that life is really like a circus. some
people just see the tents and walk past, never knowing what wonders reside
within, and of course some people dare to go in and join the circus of life,
you are one of those people so far as I am concerned. SOMETIMES, you even seem
like the clown, Women dressed like casper the ghost, we had to laugh.
It's enough for this wide-eyed wanderer
What I am listening to in the internet cafe in Erbil, IRAQ
There's a calm surrender to the rush of day
When the heat of a rolling wind can be turned away
An enchanted moment, and it sees me through
It's enough for this restless warrior just to be with you
And can you feel the love tonight
It is where we are
It's enough for this wide-eyed wanderer
That we got this far
And can you feel the love tonight
How it's laid to rest
It's enough to make kings and vagabonds
Believe the very best
There's a time for everyone if they only learn
That the twisting kaleidoscope moves us all in turn
There's a rhyme and reason to the wild outdoors
When the heart of this star-crossed voyager beats in time with yours
And can you feel the love tonight
It is where we are
It's enough for this wide-eyed wanderer
That we got this far
And can you feel the love tonight
How it's laid to rest
It's enough to make kings and vagabonds
Believe the very best
It's enough to make kings and vagabonds
Believe the very best
Can You Feel The Love Tonight Lyrics
Elton John
Hobo be Vagabonds and Kings
JJ COMING TO ERBIL
I will maybe have a person to talk with tommorrow. JJ is coming from Dohuk to Erbil.
I found 2 cheap hotels today. 30-40 Dinars. This is between 4-5 dollars.
Now we are talking HOBO BAREFOOT TRAVEL
SEX IN IRAQ
So what do I find on the pull down browser line and on my computer all the time.
Iraq people surfing the sex sites. This is nothing new in the world.
All countries do this.
What may be a little different is the all male sexy type movies.
In Mosul next to my hotel there was 2. More hard core there.
Here in Arbil there is one next to the Internet Cafe.
It shows the more risky stuff, but not the get down to business stuff.
I think the TV, Intenet, and Videos will tear them apart.
I have television in my room. I am at their mercy on channel selection.
There is BBC and I think a couple of German and Italian stations.
Hard to say exactly. Most are Arab or Kurdish.
But I am always able to watch music videos.
The are pretty SEXED up too. The have some of the rapper or gang type
from the USA also.
BACK TO THE COOLER WELCOME
I am in Erbil. This area is not as warm and friendly as the inner city Arab Mosul.
But they have not been under the sanctions. Or if they have, they broke them all
because this city is like Dohuk, full of Merceded and BMW's.
I cannot understand where they get the money.
I met some Soldiers today. The think this is friendlier then Mosul, but
there never seems to be any that have been in both places really, and if they
have I do believe they cannot and do not assimilate into the societ with the gun and uniform.
The are at best an observer. There is a need for citizens to to mix with the Arab parts.
The Kurdish part really does not need anything as far as I can see.
Maybe some was for the BMW, but other than that nothing.
This is a very high level of development here. Higher than normal for my travels of 48 countries.
2 HOTELS IN MOSUL
I posted this in the hotels section today on the Hotel Guide blog. See above links. I will soon have 5 hotels in Erbil and another 5 in Mosul. Please help me with Baghdad!
MOSUL
http://www.hobotraveler.com/120mosulhotels.shtml
BRIDGE ON THE WAY TO ERBIL KURDISTAN
I was in a collective taxi coming to Erbil.
There was 4 of us and the driver.
We came over this military made bridge on the road to Erbil
and they started making horn signs with their hands and saying.
"Saddam, NO good!" then doing the finger across their throat.
The fingers were indicating that Saddam was the Devil.
They said that Saddam bombed this bridge.
It was locate a few kilometers before the checkpoint to cross
over into Kurdistan.
TAXI DRIVER INSISTS I TAKE PHOTO OF RESTAURANT
I am in Arbil. The taxi driver stopped and insisted I
take a photo of this restaurant...
It just occurred to me on why most people think they hate Americans.
They are probably too afraid to say they are from America or they
lie, so the people lie back. They reap what they sow.
If you complain about the world, people will complain back.
If you are in love with life, then they will love life with you.
If you look for a problem, you will find one. Self prophecy or
writing that substantiate a proposition that is already there.
Of course this could be said about me also.
Thursday, August 14, 2003
http://justtraveling.blogspot.com SENDS GREETING...
To Hobo:
You are amazing! The Aug 11 newsletter was so inspiring. Real,honest,
humor, compassion...great. You filled in a lot of the blanks that is
missing about modern day Iraq-the people and their daily lives. Wish I
could send you more money, but I am still recovering and saving up for my
own travels. Debra
Debra has a BLOG also. Go take a look.
http://justtraveling.blogspot.com
Thanks. Like to think the support people gives help the world to be happy.
Or at least helps the day go faster for people tied to their jobs.
OOPS - READER COMMENT
my my my.... that macho, men are superior cultural attitude is really
rubbing off on you! that's twice today you've tried to order me around ;-) you're not the
boss of me.
hah! can you imagine a woman saying that to an arab man "you're not the
boss of me!" what a funny notion.
RE: donation.... it's an investment, as well as a vacation. of sorts.
the cheapest trip to iraq i'll ever spend. ;-)
going to bed now. (there's a 12 hr time difference, i think. you
ahead. it's easy to know the time there)
nite nite
ENGLISH PROFESSORS ARE WRITING SOME ARTICLES FOR MY NEWSLETTER
The scholar from Mosul are suppose to be writing some articles
for me to publish. They will be in English.
When I return to Mosul, I will pick up and publish on web site.
The are wanting to invite the world to visit and somehow become
a sister city or have a cultural exchange with the USA.
CARLOS WANTS MORE PHOTOS
I keep send lots of links to my photos... What do you want?
I suppose you do not want to have to click.
I will try to include more integrated into the blog.
But here is a hint on links.
RIGHT CLICK ON THE LINK.
Then - CLICK ON - OPEN IN NEW WINDOW.
Come back to the blog while the photos are opening.
4 STAR HOTEL COMPLAINT
What does a star mean?
I am suppose to be in a 4 star hotel presently here in Erbil/ Arbil Iraq.
What does that mean?
This means that a Motel 6 is a 5 star hotel in my opinion.
If you know how they get these designations. Please email me the
information or links: hoboonntheroad@DELETETHISyahoo.com
I am in a nice hotel for the price. A/C TV.
But I believe fitted sheets should be standard and a few other things.
One of these days I will get all these ideas together and come up
with a good rating system. The always focus on the amenities and not
on the safety of my computer and money.
RICH IGNORANCE
I am surprised at the rich non-intellectual snobbery in people.
I met a Kurdish man that now lives in Canada.
He was disagreeing with all the policies of the USA.
Telling me to go to Sulamania. Sulamania must be the bright
spot in the country and everyone wants you to only see the good.
I told him my biggest problem is people are too friendly.
Hard to walk down the street.
I said,
"I like to hang around with the average man in the street."
He sees this as bad.
"Normal class system crap."
It is the 95 percent of the population that we are helping the most.
The rich 5 percent are losing their position and wealth.
But you would think anyone would stop reading and walk out
and ask a guy in the street here.
Note, what I do here is much more real than the Soldiers.
They probably only hear the complaints.
The are not beaten people, they are people with 20 years of needs.
DO NOT STAY TOO LONG - COULD BE DANGEROUS
I am not sure if I have said, or talked about the amount of time
one should visit a place. The normal tourist or traveler stays maybe
1-5 days in a location. This could be longer at resort locations like
a Cancun or such, but the normal touring destination is short.
If by chance you are touring a location like Iraq or a place where
the people are extremely different than your own culture. They will
sometime start rumors or they will become paranoid. They will gossip
and come up with possible scenarios for why you are there.
DO NOT OUTSTAY YOUR WELCOME
So for me, in Iraq I start to get a little nervous after the 5 day
period and know it is time to move to the next location. This puts
pressure on me, and I do not like this, but it cannot be avoided.
Staying too long also give the crazies time to get a good anger
going, and time to plan. But out of sight, and out of mind.
If you are actually wanting to investigate something. Then it
may be best to change the area, or the Hotel. I do the same for
lots of regular thing. Like where I go to internet, and eat.
I am not regular or routine. I mix it up.
Do not appear rich. The Jakarta Hotel bombing of the Marriot and a few
attacks on hotels in the Philippines in the past year have proven that being in an
expensive Hotel can be fatal. The anger in life is most often
just rich against poor. You way you are not rich. Trust me,
if you are from any western country, you are considered rich.
I like to ask them..?
"Do I have a dollar sign on my forehead?"
I fight and discuss the price a lot.
I want to be equal. An equal will ask about the price.
A person that thinks they are in anyway superior will not.
If you want to be generous, be so with old people beggars
or those with no legs or arms.
ATTACKS IN IRAQ - PLEASE STOP THE PATROLS
We are not occupiers and the people will not revolt.
The more time I stay in Iraq, the more time
I am sure that that the USA should pull back a lot
on the patrolling of the Iraq cities, and spend more time
building Air Force bases, and working on the electrify
for this country. If they remove themselves from being targets
there will be fewer attacks. The attacks will continue as long as they
have easy target. The patrols make this easy.
I do not see that patrols are necessary in Mosul or any
of Iraq. Looking for murderers is not the same as trying
to keep the peace. The people of Iraq will start helping
a little more if they know they need to point before we come
and we will not spend our time having the Soldiers being targets.
The USA does not need to keep down rebellion.
The people of Iraq complain about Electricity.
They do NOT complain about the Americans.
They complain about wanting the Americans to fix the electricity.
I have not met anyone that wants to attack the USA.
The attackers are paid terrorist. Probably from some hard line
Muslims that do not like their children watching music videos.
WOMEN TRAVELERS - READER QUESTION
hey Andy,
You are more than welcome! Do you see any women travelers where you are or have been in Iraq. I am tempted, but hesitant for no real reason.
D
She sent a donation. That was the thanks.
Women!
I do not even see the local women. Well a little in the Kurdish areas.
In the Arabic areas no.
I saw on man that was writing a book on the Kurds. He was maybe Ex- Kurdish.
I saw one Brit and one American woman in the Ninewah.
But she was on the high end budget, and I do not think she was roaming around.
She was maybe working for an NGO.
Hard to see women when they are wearing looking like Casper the Ghost.
Here in Arbil there is some in Western clothes.
I think they are all Kurdish.
ANOTHER HOBO IS GOING THIS WAY
JJ crossed the border today.
Read the border comment in the Guide Blog. Link above.
DO NOT LET MY FRIENDS DOWN!
I make me furious to read this article.
Ignorant CNN Article
I have friends here in Iraq. I have not met anyone that wants the USA to leave.
They are frustrated. They are very very happy Saddam is gone.
I have children pretending they are Saddam and mocking him photos on the Home page of my site. Click Above to show.
The people here are frustrated.
Send home her son. He sounds like he has been measure and weighed.
Is not a keeper.
I am in favor of stopping or slowing down the patrols.
They are liberated. We can let them be the police force, and come out when needed.
Work on the electricity and a good airforce base.
Leaving before we finish is the biggest fear they have.
The Arab neighbors and Saddam are paying for the attacks.
It is not the locals.
The press of the world is causing more problems than Saddam.
Like Saddam they are the weapons of mass destruction.
MOM SAYS TO BE CAREFUL
Go figure...!
My mother, family, an friends all keep telling me to be careful.
Contrary to popular opinion.
I am probably one of the most careful traveler you could meet.
In fact, I write lots of Travel Tips on just that, how to be safe.
WATER FOUNTAIN - SIGN OF ADVANCED DEVLOPMENT
I have found cold water souces for water in Turkey and Iraq.
They have been everywhere more or less. They look like little coolers.
The water is free and comes from the tap. I am 98 percent sure on this.
One of the biggest signs you can have of the level of development is the water.
I am in Arbil now, but found one of these in Mosul also.
I saw a few in South America. In Brazil. At the airport in Argentina.. (only at airport)
This is not common.
Any country that has bottled water everywhere is usually a great sign of infrastructure problems.
They sell water here, but not really. Not like most countries.
In an heavily tourist area they will sell water for sure. The tourist are paranoid.
The electrical here in Iraq appears to have been bad before the war and now what they
really want is us to improve it. I am looking very closely at the wiring.
Stealing electricity is a world problem. I call it a problem because there is no way to adequately
guage the amount of power used, and you will have overloads and brownouts.
This is Iraq in a nutshell.
But by the shear number of generators, this problem is not new.
It has been here for years.
I have taken photos of the wire hook ups for years for you readers that have read
my newsletters for years. My recommendation is still to take the oil money and
buy electricity and give it free to this country. Free money can make them a welfare nation.
I HAVE A SECOND BLOG IS FOR GUIDE INFORMATION
Hello,
I put up second more concise blog for the actual traveler.
This one will give the fast and quick information on the 3 primary needs of a
real Barefoot Hobo Traveler .. (I include the RICH stuff also for the tourst.)
The links will alwayse be at the top. Help me collect information for this route
from Silopi Turkey to Bagdad and beyond please.
Wednesday, August 13, 2003
IN ERBIL - ARBIL - IRBIL WHO KNOWS WHAT IS CORRECT - KURDISTAN IRAQ
2 Dollars USA or 2000 Saddam Dinars and you are in Erbil in one hour by a very fast colective taxi!
Reminds me of Mexico and the drivers. I want to put my head out the window and scream,
"Huevos!"
These Kurdish drivers are crazy on this side of Mosul.
The place is great and there is a great big "TELL" next to me.
They build cities out of adobe brick, when they broke or fell apart, they would flatten the ground
and build a new how on top of the old house. Slowly over the centuries it made huge mound
so lots of cities are on top of hill in the middle of flat areas.
This is one of them word you should learn.
James Michener wrote a book called the "Makers Tell" I believe.
I read it in Thailand. Outstanding history of this area.
SATELLITE TELEPHONES
I can buy a satellite telephone here for 625 dollars US.
I would have to buy cards to use the call time.
It is the only way to call between Mosul and Arbil.
Arbil is about 1 hour away, and not available with land lines.
Very strange. Makes me know how separated Mosul is from the
Kursdistan. I am bouncing really between two countries.
The land under Saddams former rule (Mosul) and the land under
the rule of Kurdistan.
MOSUL VERSUS KURDISTAN
I remember saying that after leaving Turkey that Dohuk was cold or not that friendly. I have been reflecting on this. People in Dohuk are in a lot better financial shape. They was not under Saddams control. Plus they have tons of Soldiers there. But the people of Mosul are isolated. Theyn known as the Minni Droppo, and it's shit. I'm putting in some Angry Girl Attitude in here, am I not? I'm tired and sleepy. It's lunch hour. U know what they do in Italy in afternoons like this? They take a break. All the shops close and everyone simply retire for a few hours. I think they should start introducing that concept in this country. In Malaysia too. Bet people would be more productive that way. Phewph..false alarm! Thought my boss is here. He checks on me a couple of times a day if I'm not working with him. His name is Adam. He's really fu
PEACE CORP
This seem like a great place for the Peace Corp to send people.
There are problems.
Ther is an organization for imigration here.
Someone shot a RPG Rocket Propelled Grenade at the building here.
The rumor I have heard is that they thought the organization was
controlled by Israel people want to buy up all the land in Iraq.
There is a lot of people that come up with ideas.
The rumor mill is running hard.
THE WELCOME
I am going to say it again.
It is difficult to walk in Iraq.
There are just too many people that want to talk with me.
Every one of them is interested in America.
They will buy Tea for me, and stand up and give me their chair.
They will surround me by the dozens if I allow it
Popular questions?
#1 Will you take me to America with you?
#2 Where do you live? What state.
The almost all have a friend or relative in the USA.
#3 Are you Christian or Moslem? Seems dangerous but really harmless.
#4 Questions about movie stars or about the television.
They have only had open television for a couple of months.
Of course music videos are popular.
#5 If the USA is so big, why is it taking so long for salaries and the electricity to be fixed. The electricity is interesting. One man today said that he thought that Sadddam did this to torment the people. The electricity goes off all the time. Every business has a generator and has to alternate between current and the generator. But now it is the same. They do not understand.
HOBO
These friends of mine are all English teachers. I keep saying,
"I am a Hobo."
I am not sure yet, if they fully understand this term.
It is really an USA term only. The British will understand but not
the same. The rest of the world will not normally.
So I wonder? Do they normally want to talk with Hoboes?
LIFE IS GOOD
Clarity is what I like.
Got my internet life in order. All is done, and I am happy.
To me the secret to happiness is clarity.
Serenity is clarity. The days I am clear in my mind on what I am doing
and why I am doing it are the best.
I am excited to see Arbil, Erbil, or Irbil. They spell it different every time I see it
spelled. It is a Kurdish city and comes highly recommended.
The Scholars are hard at work on an idea to become a Sister City with a USA City.
They had never heard of the idea, but they are starved for word of the outside world.
Tuesday, August 12, 2003
WOW! WHAT A DAY AND NIGHT
Sometimes maybe... you have a reason to feel paranoid?
But this is a good way to think of a tip.
Normally a tip is easy. There is always something new to write
about or a problem to solve, so the tip comes easy.
This next weeks tip is already written.
I am calling it - INSTINCTS - INTUITION - INSIGHT
or how to know when you are in danger?
Yesterdays problems:
1. Topica.com would not allow me to send my newsletter.
2. My blog was blocked here and only that page. Nothing else.
3. The USA military looked like they got ambushed on the road, and we had to take a detour.
4. The internet just plain sucked for speed.
People are too friendly. But that is not a problem, but when you are a little on
the nervous side, too many questions is taxing on the mind.
All is working today, and I still smell a rat.
If the USA government is reading this and wants me to listen, or talk, or behave, then please write me an email like the rest of the world. But tell me when or who is blocking my blog...! I am just a poor hobo. That cost me 5 dollars extra in internet time. I could live for 2 days in Thailand for that.
hoboontheroad@DELETETHISyahoo.com
But on a brighter note.
I got a great photo of a boy pretending to be Saddam.
He has a big cigar and I will put it up tommorrow.
(Note: Natasha stop donating. You are too generous. Thanks)
TODAY IS NEWSLETTER DAY
I am sending out my newsletter today.
Has lots that is NOT in this blog.
Here is an online link to it:
http://www.hobotraveler.com/newsletterhobo119.php
Monday, August 11, 2003
Hey...! REMEMBER YOU LOST THE WAR
I was over at my Professor friends. 5 Scholars and a Hobo.
The are telling me all the things the USA should do and sort of insisting.
I finally looked at them and said,
"YOU LOST THE WAR."
These are not stupid men. Very smart.
It was a wake up. The looked at me and said,
"OK."
They know history, they know people. They know what Saddam would do
and did to Kurdish people. They know what the Kurdish people did to the Arabic
people on the retreat out of Kurdistand. The know.... too much.
The just had forgotten.
The want money to live. They really have more than most countries.
But they have not been in 48 countries to compare and know this.
But they want it now.
I think they got the idea.
I told my friend.
"Why does 1 American have to die for you?"
He looks down,
I say,
"What do you tell my friend in the USA that had son die here?"
We all agree that Saddam was a devil.
They have not been beaton like in most wars.
My friend said,
"During the bombing by the USA. We went to work, we walked
in the streets, we lived our lives. We knew we were not in danger."
So these are not a beaton people.
They are a confused people who want normal to return.
INTERESTING TAXI DRIVER
I get up every morning and go the University Street to use the internet. My hotel is at least 20 minutes away and I have to cross the river. It is a nice trip because I get to see lots of Mosul.
I have one of the boys working in the Hotel assist me to choose a Taxi. There are Taxis that are marked, and Taxis that are not marked. The should know the lay of the land a little better. My one friend has written in Arabic the street. So I show the Taxi the card. Show the man 750 Saddam faced Dinar and they nod their head OK.
We go. 750 Dinar is about 50 cents USA. So the Taxis is very cheap. In most countries of this level it would be 1 dollar. So half priced.
I have had very good luck with Taxi driver. They have been great. But this morning the man obviously did not like the USA. This make the morning and the trip a little more tense. He took his hand. Said "America"
Made and X across his hand.
I have no idea exactly what that meant.
I took my 2 index fingers and said,
"America / Iraq."
Like to show that we are married.
He shakes his head no.
OK...
Not a lets get over it type of guy.
I look down the road and avoid eye contact.
Maybe I need to club this guy. Who really knows.
But as a normal disagreement and that all it is.
He took me to the street.
I shook his hand goodbye.
He gave me a clam.
I put my hand to my chest and said,
"Friend."
At least I did no harm to the relationships.
LETTER FROM READER IN THORNTREE
EMAIL RECEIVED
are you in baghdad now.. 6 dollars is fine .. how do you get money if no ATM"s if i come it will be threw jordan.. do you agree.. do you need any supplys.. im looking to be a aprintice journalist... i have a security background.. but i blend in well.. i have ben to egypt 2 years ago..to many other places to list..how would you rate the danger.. have you had any problems.. what is your nationality.. thanks chad
ANSWER:
I brought USA dollars. About 30 for every day I wish to be here.
But 60 would be better.
Entrance through Jordan and Syria is OK.
But the softer entrance is from Turkey.
Start out easy and go in the difficult areas.
I do not know Baghdad. Everyone says not to go.
But I do know that from Mosul up is pretty much OK..
How would I rate the danger?
High but not very high, or extreme.
Like walking down a street in Lima, Peru at midnight.
Not for the panic type people.
Must be relaxed and ready to be friendly. Must disarm their suspicions.
I am from the USA. Born and raise. Cow country. Indiana.
Apprentice Journalist... I am not a Journalist.
I am a Hobo That makes a lot of noise.
Journalist get paid to do this. I get very small donations. If that.
But I do have the freedome to tell the truth, and not need to sell stories of crap.
Andy in Mosul
ENGLISH PROFESSORS WANT TO BE PART OF WORLD
These highly educated men want to be part of the world. They speak excellent English. They are looking for a way to welcome the world to their country. They are considering maybe becoming a sister city with a city in the USA. An exchange of culture and friendship. Anyone who reads this and would be interested. Please write me Andy at:
mosul@DELETETHIShobotraveler.com
This is real. They have been separated from the world for years.
Sunday, August 10, 2003
Reply to question
Thanks for replying. I'm about two weeks behind you.
I have read that it's NOT a good idea for western males to travel together as they may be mistaken for coalition soldiers/special forces whatever and they may therefore become a target. I will not be wearing any shade of green or khaki in any of my clothing and although I need a haircut, I will wait until after Iraq. I just do not want to be mistaken for military at all. That could be a serious problem. What do you think?
I also speak about 200 words of Arabic. Do you think that's a good or a bad thing? Is it best not to speak any Arabic whilst there?
Thanks again,
My answer.
I agree about the haircut. Better to not look like a soldier.
The will assume you are CIA unless they get to know you, so I my opinion you must do your best to be a real person. I am a hobo more or less and cheap. People that pay a lot of money are being paid to come here.
The Arabic is good.
Say a few word, but be careful if they want to be too inqusitive in the Arabic language. Better to stay on the language you know in a country that is frustrated and looking for a reason.
When in doubt in any country. I suddenly can not answer any questions in the local lauguage. I am then just an ignorant American, they think I am stupid, and they are smart. This make them feel good and stops the problem. Fortunately in this country there is not the normal pile of corrupt policeman around to shake you down.
I WANT MONEY... NOW
Patience.
PILES OF MONEY
50 Dollars US.
Should we measure it by the inch or centimeter?
I was in Ecuador when the Sucre went to pieces.
I was in Mexico when the money doubled.
I was next to Argentina when the money collapsed.
Great for a traveler, terrible for a rich guy.
This the reason the educated... a.k.a. rich class is angry.
Life if difficult.
They all need to use the Euro and forget their own money.
Stability is needed, not a patriotic money.
Especially a man with a Turbin. Turbins are in a minority.
Turbins do not say ..Stability.
PHOTOS OF IRAQ MONEY - SADDAM IS ON THESE
http://www.hobotraveler.com/119money.shtml
A LITTLE INTELLECTUAL DEBATE - THE MOSUL WAY
Hello,
I went to dinner last night with 3 PHD holders
that are professors in Mosul.
A intellectually invigorating night of questions
and answers. Two cultures working through the mysteries
of the other and trying to come to a consensous.
We agree more than we disagreed.
They do not trust the USA. They are trying to
trust the USA, but are impatient. They want the
solutions now and not in the future. Not that
they really explained the specifics of the solutions
but in the end it money. They want money to live
and feed their families.
Lets take that back. They are all sort of chubby.
That sounds a little melodramatic. They want
the normal life style to resume.
I think that is a trapping of writing. We use the
coined phrases and they are in written language
intepretted literrally.
3 PHD's
1 was an ex Soldier and tearcher of English Grammar.
1 was a working... I should not say. It could cause
him problems. It is an important city job.
1 was a professor of English.
If you know me, then you know. I was on friendly
territory. My English is not good, and the last thing
someone needs to do is scrutinize my grammar.
But that is fate some days. It was a good night though
and they never once corrected my English. I often
have people from Foreign countries correct my English
or ask if the way I say a sentence is correct or
incorrect? My normal answer is,
"I have no idea if it is correct."
The world wants perfection and all we get is our best.
In a perfect world my best would be good enough.
I was met at my Hotel and we took a taxi to the
restaruant. It was a wonderful open air restaruant on
a busy University street. Full of men.
All men. Where are the women? Not allowed I guess.
But all men nonetheless. I feel a little bit guilty.
In the USA to not have women at a restaurant would be
to purposely discrimanate against them. So I am feeling
guilty like I cause this discrimination. I guess it is
there problem and not mine.
Under the moon.
Background noise of Taxis.
Lots of space and light.
There was a card table size table with a lounge bench.
There could be a group of 6 people very easily.
A very comfortable place.
My friend Hassan ask,
"Have you every been to a place like this?"
I almost said yes,
But then I stopped.
I have never been to a place like this.
All men, smoking water pipes, and playing cards.
But I said,
"I have never been to a place like this, but...
in every city in every countrie I enter there is a place
where people go to talk. Discuss whatever, a place where
the discuss the world. My father goes every morning to
the restaurant to talk with the local yocals.
So this place is common. No women is not common,
but this type of place is common."
The Ex-Soldier sits down in the middle of the bench.
A little too close to me. I think he is doing one
of them test. This is a test. For the next hour we
will see who you are? OK. So what another test in life.
He is little macho, but not very good at it, and does
not fit him well. He also is not macho in the American
sense. He gets in too close to see if I will pull away.
He does not stink, and is sort of jolly looking.
With a stern face. Greying a little. But chubby.
I pat his stomach, and compare his to mine.
Mine is too large presently, and is shrinking,
but now is a good way to endear myself with people.
Show them an imperfection, and they show me theirs.
What a conversations.
All in Arabic... hehehe. I lie.
I speak now about 5 words. Not a difficult language
but I am lazy, and tired of learning lauguage. It is
a duty of necessity and not of fun and curiousity.
I say it is easy, but I cannot speak it, so who knows.
We spoke in English. Remember, they are English teachers
and they love to use some of the big words.
I could write for hours and hours on this conversation.
The sparring, the questions. The answers.
We all agreed on:
1. Saddam was an asshole.
2. All the Soldiers with no jobs is not good.
3. That people are not perfect.
Hello,
I went to dinner last night with 3 PHS holders
that are professors in Mosul.
A intellectually invigorating night of questions
and answers. Two cultures working through the mysteries
of the other and trying to come to a consensus.
We agree more than we disagreed.
They do not trust the USA. They are trying to
trust the USA, but are impatient. They want the
solutions now and not in the future. Not that
they really explained the specifics of the solutions
but in the end it money. They want money to live
and feed their families.
Lets take that back. They are all sort of chubby.
That sounds a little melodramatic. They want
the normal life style to resume.
I think that is a trapping of writing. We use the
coined phrases and they are in written language
interpreted literally.
3 PhD�s
1 was an ex Soldier and teacher of English Grammar.
1 was a working... I should not say. It could cause
him problems. It is an important city job.
1 was a professor of English.
If you know me, then you know. I was on friendly
territory. My English is not good, and the last thing
someone needs to do is scrutinize my grammar.
But that is fate some days. It was a good night though
and they never once corrected my English. I often
have people from Foreign countries correct my English
or ask if the way I say a sentence is correct or
incorrect? My normal answer is,
"I have no idea if it is correct."
The world wants perfection and all we get is our best.
In a perfect world my best would be good enough.
I was met at my Hotel and we took a taxi to the
restaurant. It was a wonderful open air restaurant on
a busy University street. Full of men.
All men. Where are the women? Not allowed I guess.
But all men nonetheless. I feel a little bit guilty.
In the USA to not have women at a restaurant would be
to purposely discriminate against them. So I am feeling
guilty like I cause this discrimination. I guess it is
Their problem and not mine.
Under the moon.
Background noise of Taxis.
Lots of space and light.
There was a card table size table with a lounge bench.
There could be a group of 6 people very easily.
A very comfortable place.
My friend Hassan ask,
"Have you every been to a place like this?"
I almost said yes,
But then I stopped.
I have never been to a place like this.
All men, smoking water pipes, and playing cards.
But I said,
"I have never been to a place like this, but...
in every city in every countries I enter there is a place
where people go to talk. Discuss whatever, a place where
the discuss the world. My father goes every morning to
the restaurant to talk with the local yokels.
So this place is common. No women is not common,
but this type of place is common."
The Ex-Soldier sits down in the middle of the bench.
A little too close to me. I think he is doing one
of them test. This is a test. For the next hour we
will see who you are? OK. So what another test in life.
He is little macho, but not very good at it, and does
not fit him well. He also is not macho in the American
sense. He gets in too close to see if I will pull away.
He does not stink, and is sort of jolly looking.
With a stern face. Graying a little. But chubby.
I pat his stomach, and compare his to mine.
Mine is too large presently, and is shrinking,
but now is a good way to endear myself with people.
Show them an imperfection, and they show me theirs.
What a conversations.
All in Arabic... hehehe. I lie.
I speak now about 5 words. Not a difficult language
but I am lazy, and tired of learning language. It is
a duty of necessity and not of fun and curiosity.
I say it is easy, but I cannot speak it, so who knows.
We spoke in English. Remember, they are English teachers
and they love to use some of the big words.
I could write for hours and hours on this conversation.
The sparring, the questions. The answers.
We all agreed on:
1. Saddam was an asshole.
2. All the Soldiers with no jobs is not good.
3. That people are not perfect.
4. We all hope the USA finishes what they started.
5. The media distorts the truth.
They believe that they make the Arabs appear stupid
and I agree. I try to explain a free press and they
accept the free press and change the word from propaganda
to news for money. They call the BBC propaganda.
They do not get CNN here, but do get BBC so this is
why. I think the would call CNN the same.
I have picked up on my friends Nates words.
Commy News Network. Such good fun and sometime very
accurate.
6. We agreed the flat pancake bread that we wrapped
the kebob type beef was excellent. They had tomatoes,
onions, other veggies that I hate. But I will note
to put in the rolled up finger food.
7. They want the people to change Iraq. They are talking
about the soldiers. I said that the soldiers at not people.
Ooops. Yes they are, but more of trained killers. I use
these exact words. They have one goal to kill the enemy.
At least in my mind that is the goal I hope they have.
We agree that they are soldiers and trained to kill.
Not to rebuild countries.
8. Bremmer the USA leader of Iraq right now should have
maybe handled the firing of the military different.
They all agreed on this. I am 60 percent in agreement
with them. It only takes a few idiot soldiers to destroy
the whole bunch. Remember this is a bunch of idealist
Professors, and not really trained killers. At least
not on their day job.
9. We all agree that I was Christian. And they were Moslem.
This is always the first conversation in Iraq.
They want to know what religion you are?
I never think of myself as Christian, but it is the correct
answer. A wimp answer would be something else.
They want to talk to men and not women.
10. Suicide bombers are idiot.
I proposed that, and explained in my culture.
Random killing by wrapping bombs around themselves
is going to get their whole country demolished.
The soldier said,
"It only kills a few."
He sort of jumped back when I said,
"But in retaliation I would rather have them
wipe out your city then have son of mine killed."
The one of them pipe up,
"A nuclear bomb."
I said,
"No, I am making a point. We have a choice.
We do not have to be nice about a war. A war is to kill.
We could have erased Mosul off the map or Iraq of the
map and then there is not problem."
They all feel a little fear on this concept, and I do
not believe that they thought I could think that way.
The want war to be with rules. I want war with rules.
The funny statement of the night was a prodding question
by the Ex Soldier.
"Why was Saddam mad at the USA?"
He would not tell me the answer he wanted.
He kept asking the question.
He restated the question,
"Why did Saddam do what he did?"
I said,
"He is Suicidal."
They all started to laugh. I said,
"Only a crazy man would fight with the USA."
They sort of agreed on the crazy part.
He said the reason that Saddam was mad at Bush
and not Clinton was because Bush Senior gave the go
ahead to attack Kuwait. He then destroyed him.
So it was a sneak attack.
I said,
"We call that.. Conspiracy Theory."
Another great laugh.
We was all friend.
I got another free meal and life is good.
I am calling Iraq a
"No pay zone."
They will not allow their guest to pay.
They want me to tell someone what they think.
So I told you.
I tried to get them to tell me where Saddam was.
"We can all split the reward money."
The solder looked at me,
"He killed my mother and brother."
Gave me want of them deep eye probes.
Saying and I translate the eyes.
"If I could find him, I would take care of him."
They all agreed on the idea that maybe Bush was
an idiot. But I said all leaders are idiot.
The understand though that a leader has power
and did not get that power from being stupid.
They have a better understanding of power then
the western societies.
OK. My job is done. I told you.
I go to lunch at the Soldier house today.
We can talk about Weapons of Mass Destruction
and all sorts of fun things.
PHOTOS OF TRIP TO MOSUL
http://www.hobotraveler.com/119mosul01.shtml
http://www.hobotraveler.com/119mosul02.shtml
http://www.hobotraveler.com/119mosul03.shtml
http://www.hobotraveler.com/119mosul04.shtml
http://www.hobotraveler.com/119mosul05.shtml
http://www.hobotraveler.com/119mosul06.shtml
http://www.hobotraveler.com/119mosul07.shtml
Saturday, August 09, 2003
WHAT HAPPENED FIRST DAY
I left to take a taxi from Dohuk to Mosul. The owner of this pharmacy thought it was better I take a bus, and cheaper. Sounded good to me so I went to what he called a "Garage" by taxi. It was bus stop that take middle size buses to Mosul. I had lots of fun and soon you will see lots of photos. I promise. I have all the photos ready, but forgot to bring them.
I paid the driver 10 Kurdish Dinar extra or maybe 1.25 and he took me to the Ninewah Palace Hotel. There are 2 of them. One that is very big I think and in probably the newest part of the city. I am not sure. But it is full of coalition forces, so I did not want to go there because it is probably full and very expensive. I go to the Ninewah Palace and they said,
"No single, only Suites"
I ask,
"How much?"
Looking at his eyes, I smelled bullshit.
I stood around and made everyone wait for me.
He had said the single room was 16 and the Suite was 100 dollars.
I gibber jabbered with the guy. He was not friendly. More of the I cannot be bother with poor people attitude.
Soon they find a single. Duh...Really. Your kidding me.
Normal crap in hotels. But normal.
This is suppose to have some Stars.
I looked at the room. On the lower end of Hotel 6.
But I did see a couple of Foreigners or western type people sittting around.
I then learned that he had 60 and not 16.
The sounds get clarified and this is said slightly confusing.
I will not pay for anything unless I write it down on paper, or first hold up the correct amount of money.
I thought 16 dollars was very possible, becuase the guy in Dohuk that recommended
the hotel said the price was 20. It may and I think it probably is for Arabs or Kurdish or any other names you can come up
with for people that live here.
The guy was getting frustrated wth me.
This is good.
This is how it works.
I am sure that on my forehead is a DOLLAR SIGN.
He is looking right at this DOLLAR SIGN.
I ask him,
"Are there other Hotel?"
Implying, safe and close.
He says or mumble, does not help.
The one in Dohuk were helpful.
MY Big FRIEND and sometime called "Donkey" by his friends
was waiting and trying very hard to help. He was willing to
take this small bus around Mosul like a taxi to help.
Very good guy. But just a Joe Blow guy and not rich.
But he wants me to like his country and be safe.
The reception guy wants the buck.
He is not going to budge on price and either am I.
PLAN B
I do not have a plan B, but it sounds good.
I look over at the Gringos. I cannot help but use this term.
Only way to describe so far. I will learn the local nickname for us.
There is an attractive woman and a Britich guy.
They both are having a drink and talking.
I say,
"Excuse me, I am from American and need a room."
The girl says she is going to Arbil and doe not know.
...(So much for sharing rooms.)
The Brit looks a little confuse, old, and one of them Britich types
that forgets to go home.
She recommend Arbil.
"The 4 Candles Hotel."
I take out my index cards and pen and write this down.
No time to lose a good tip.
She looks over at this Middle East guy. I do not know what to call them
I can not tell the difference that easily between Kurdish, Arabic, and others.
The beads in their hands give away the Moslems. But of no value in saying
from what brainwash they are from.
The nice Middle Eastern man is helpful.
She is talking Arabic with him, and I think to myself,
"I need some more time here ti find a guide.. hehehe)
He tell me...oops. He does not tell me, he writes down on my index cards
in Arabic that looks to me like a bird walked accross the address of a Hotel.
I put a little Arrow on the top, so I will not try to show to people upside down.
UP pops a taxi driver.
Lets go he says.
I look at MY big FRIEND.... a.k.a Donkey.
I trust him. He nod his head. I give more money to him.
He is special.
I look at the taxi driver.
"How much?"
Holding together my 2 fingers like I am holding money.
He looks.
Says nothing.
I look.
I say nothing,
He looks.
I raise my hands, shrug my shoulders.
He says in English,
"10 Dinar"
I say,
"Kurdish."
He nods his head.
We leave, and I forgot to grab my guide.
(She speaks Arabic.)
I say goodbye to all, the reception guys have
totallly forgotten to smile the whole time I am there.
The new Taxi driver is great.
Friendly and wants to talk English, or practice.
He takes me to this different Hotel.
Makes sure that I have a room.
It cost 6 Dollars a night.
The whole entrance area is SOLID MARBLE.
Make the other hotel look like a Holiday Inn.
The new hotel is on a very busy street.
Full of people, chicken, and noise.
The hotel is quiet. I am home.
Fan in the middle of ceiling a light.
Television in Arabic and a squat toilet.
I am debating if the rooms are air conditioned.
I think they are when the air catches up with the heat.
A man at the desk speak great English.
We walked over later to get some chicken.
I am a meat eater.
Go figure?
I had a very beautiful girl in the Playtypus Hostel
in Bogota, Colombia,
"You eat too much red meat."
Never understood exactly, but I get the idea.
I am in a much better place.
They apologize for the location.
I say,
"I came to visit the Iraqi people,
I did not come to visit a hotel full of Americans."
or worse yet... Journalist. Lying to make a living.
Life is good.
I got my pages published.
And tommorrow photos.
If all the good Gods of the Universe help
and I remember to bring the disk.
I forgot the one disk today.
OH yea. I have published the photos.
HERE IS MY FRIEND!
FTP is sucking
I put a small File Transfer Protocol on the machine I am using.
Load on my file to upload. Configure and upload.
The program is so slow that it is stopping from errors.
I am using an FTP program best for Window 98. They have Millenium or XP
on a machine that should have 98 on it. I can publish from the browser line.
If any of you techies know a SMALL ftp program that works.
It must be maybe 1-2 megs.
MOSUL IS SAFE UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS
It is big normal city in a country that is developing.
The is lots of street crime. This is normal in lots of countries. This reminds me of Peru. Maybe Acapulco, Mexico. Sort of the same level of dirty in the normal streets. They have these nice streets that are clean, but the back streets are dirty. This seem the standard for years. Not a new thing. People that throw trash on the ground. Throw trash on the ground.
SAFE?
What is safe?
To most, nothing is safe. Stay at home please.
Do I want to hang around Soldiers... Not really. They are the targets, if there is a target. They would be an easy target for most. It has a lot to do if whether the locals would help you find a shooter. If they do not, then it is very easy to shoot a Soldier. If they help find the shooter, then difficult to shoot without getting caught. My gut feeling is that these people are helping the American Soldiers as best they can.
If you got the Huevos, you got the Huevos.
MOSUL INTERNET SLOW
I think they have very good internet in Mosul.
But they seem to have lots more users.
So it is slow. What does that mean?
I am going to take 5 dollars more a trip to publish the photos.
Hobo aaagh!
Friday, August 08, 2003
SAFE IN MOSUL - HOTEL IS GREAT
I am again on the Hobo budget. Life is good. I am paying 6 dollars a night after bouncing off the hotel recomended by my friend. The Nineveh Palace Hotel is the one I bounce off of, but there is 2 of them. I think the coalition troups are in the other fancier. I am not going to tell my hotel just to be cautious.
I had to use all my talents to get this hotel with the minimal amount of stress and money.
It was a series of strings to follow and not unhook. But I am good.
Thursday, August 07, 2003
QUICK ANSWERS ON BORDER CROSSING
Firstly,
Hello,
This person wrote me below. I will reply with CAPS.
can I just say a big "THANKS" for the time, effort and money that you must be putting in just to keep the rest of us informed. I did actually try and sign up for your membership, but the final link wasn't working.
SORRY ABOUT THAT. I AM NOT SURE. MEMBER - NEWSLETTER - DONATION. I HAVE NOT GOT THIS BLOG SET UP TO BE SUBSCRIBE TO. ? I HAVE NOT TRIED.
I am curious about the actual border crossing between Silopi and Iraq. You write that it was easy, yet you also wrote that you were bounced back the first time. Why was it easier the second time? I have a British passport, a backpack and no press card. Is there anything you recommend that folks like me should or should not say and/or do?
THE FIRST BOUNCE WAS A LAUGH. I TOOK OUT MY CAMERA AND THEY SAID TO GO BACK. SECOND TIME I WAS IN TAXI AND THE GUY KNEW HE WOULD ONLY GET HIS MONEY IF I CROSSED.
DO NOT SAY YOU ARE PRESS OR MEDIA. HAVE A RESPECTABLE JOB AN BE TURIZM - THAT IS HOW THEY PRONOUNCE IT. SMILE A LOT - SHAKE HANDS AS IS THE CUSTOM - TALK TO EVERYONE BE NICE - YOU ARE AN AMBASSADOR AND A GUEST IN THEIR COUNTRY. GOOD MANNERS WILL OPEN ALL DOORS.
I HAVE A USA PASSPORT.
NAB A TAXI IN FRONT OF THE HOTEL HARBUR / AVOID ALL THE REALLY GOOD SPEAKING ENGLISH PEOPLE THAT WANT TO HELP - IT WILL COST YOU MONEY. THEY ARE VERY NICE - BUT...
Was your passport stamped when you left Turkey and when you entered Iraq?
I THINK IT WAS CHECKED. AT LEAST THE TURKEY OFFICIALS LOOKED AT IT A LOT. I HAVE SOME FORM OF PAPER TO ENTER IRAQ. UNLIMITED TIME I THINK. I DID NOT LOOK AT THAT CLOSE.
I read your blog almost every day. It isn't necessary to reply to me by e-mail. You can just post it on your blog if you want. That way, other people can read it too.
GOOD WAY TO THINK.
CHEERS... I AM TRYING TO PRACTICE MY BRITISH ENGLISH.
GOOD FUN
I OPENED A NEW BLOG TODAY ON JUST THE GUIDE STUFF.
NOTHING IN IT YET.
Thanks in advance,
MIND OF MADNESS
My messy room.
http://www.hobotraveler.com/119inthemindofmadness.shtml
The perfect cabinet for in a Hotel or Hostel... Almost.
http://www.hobotraveler.com/119perfectcabinet.shtml
HOTELS IN DOHUK IRAQ OR KURDISTAN
BIG Photos of business cards.
http://www.hobotraveler.com/119dohukhotels.shtml
NO ONE SEEMS TO WANT TO ROB ME?
I am used to being in places that want to rob me.
So far.. Only Dohuk, but so far very safe from crime.
Dohuk is probably safe for the seasoned traveler... Not tourist.
ALABAMA TRIES TO MAKE ME CRY
I got some really great and wonderfully appreciative emails from the families of Soldiers from Alabama. It made my day. I made some people happy.
Thank you. I just be hobo.
I BELIEVE BBC AND CNN HELP CAUSE THE WARS
I have BBC on my TV. I cannot find CNN. I have CNN Turk.
But the TV has become so bad... or a rag.
2 PEOPLE HAVE SAID THE SAME THING
They want news of USA in Arabic.
The do not hear what is going on in outside world.
THEY DO HAVE BBC SO THIS IS NOT TRUE.
I speak Spanish. Watching Television is very difficult.
They speak in inference, jokes, and satire.
That is very difficult to understand in a foreign language.
So here you are some Arab.
Watching BBC.
They show a protest in the USA.
They think the whole USA was against the war.
I hold BBC and CNN liable for causing lots of the social problems of the whole world. They are not Journalist. They are people trying to cause arguments between countries.
A man tonight told me,
"We watched the news. No one in the USA supported the War.
This was all Bush"....aagh.
I need to get out my duck tape like Glenn Beck.
So my head does not explode.
I came here to see if BBC and CNN are really liars.
So far they are. The people or Iraq like Americans.
Yes some are angry. But so would you be if your father or son was killed by a bomb. Right or wrong. You are not happy.
BAD LOGIC
A man in my hotel said,
"You are safe in Iraq. You are a civilian."
Same as a guy from Germany acting like they will not mistaken him for an American.
Killing is not a real logical thing.
I remember asking a girl in Colombia if the bus was ok?
She said,
"I made it."
Duh... I can run in front of a machine gun and some people will make it.
Tell me the pros and the cons.
HOTEL RECOMMENDATION
I had a business man from Baghdad recommend and write down the name of a good hotel in Mosul tonight. 20 dollar per night.
It all in Arabic letters so I cannot read it.
All of the writing in Kurdistan seems to be done in Arabic letters. They have lots of English, but most people seem to write in Arabic.
5 STAR HOTEL FOR SOLDIERS IN DOHUK
This is a very large hotel with lots of Soldiers.
So I am giving the telephone number I found.
00447077507750
The Jiyan Hotel in Dohuk, Iraq (Kurdistan)
A hotel for rest and relaxation. Swimming pool.
Air. Color TV. etc. 200 channels.
I live in the Babylon because all the Soldier have the good rooms.
My hotel is supposed to be a 4 star.
I think it is a 2 star. But I have 200 channels and color tv and air.
But my air does not work so good.
Breakfast seems to be included. Sort of like Brazil.
I would think they have more than me.
But I have only Iraqi people in my hotel so I get to sit around and shoot the bull with the locals.
TIME
I am about 9 hours ahead of the central part of they USA.
So when it is 8:00 in the morning in the USA.
It is 5:00 in the afternoon here.
PHOTOS OF HOTELS IN DOHUK
I am going to make a page soon with address and such. But here are some photos. Good as an address to a taxi driver that does not speak your language.
http://www.hobotraveler.com/119dohuk03.shtml
HOTEL MOVE OR MAYBE I BOUNCE OFF MOSUL
I have decided to call Mosul for a reservation is more difficult then going there. It is only one hour from here. I will leave for Mosul tommorrow morning very early and with a taxi. I am going to great work in choosing the correct driver, and make sure they understand the goal. Go look for hotel. Find moderate priced one... (Hobo Budget) and stay. If big problems I return. Maybe I will have a reservation. I will look for grouping of civilians to stay close to, or maybe close to the Soldiers. But the city is very big, and my driver will not know Mosul as well as Dohuk. But they normally know where the expensive hotels are located, and I can work my way down.
The taxi trip to Mosul round trip is 20 dollars. I would prefer a bus for road trips. They are less likely to shoot at a bus I think.
NEW POLICY...Photos
Like I need a policy. But I have methods to my madness.
A big problem is my day before newsletter day. Crunch to finish it.
Photos are big time problem. But I am doing them daily and posting them almost daily, so life is good. I have all the photo links ready to included in the newsletter. Thank you blogger.com for the help.
Some more.
http://www.hobotraveler.com/119dohuk01.shtml
COFFEE IS AT CRITICAL LEVEL
My inventory of instan coffee is at the critical level.
Some things in life are more important then other.
My coffee, made my way, and in the morning when I want it.
I have not seen much "Nescafe" sold here. In fact none.
But, I have not looked. I will find some today. Trust me.
In lots of countries "Nescafe" means coffee.
As does Coke can mean any type of soft drink.
SLUMMING IT
I want to work for the UN.
The Red Cross has the same type.
I go first class or I do not go. Nothing like making sure they think the outside world is rich and they are poor. I think they could be about 1/2 degree less high profile.
Note: It is easy to ask for money when you think the other person is rich.
I try to get one dollar from people and they still think I am rich and won't give it.
That SUV would fund my travels for 10 years.
KURDISH MAN - WONDERFUL SOUL
This man does not speak a word of English. But his smile says a million words.
When I said "America" he stood up, put his hand to his heart and pull it away.
It is a common gesture here. Like you are my friend, and welcome.
DON'T TUG ON SUPERMAN CAPE - hehehe
Year in Review 2002: world-affairs
President and Prime Minister Saddam Hussein
From my computer Encylopedia Britannica.
Year in Review 2002: world-affairs
President and Prime Minister Saddam Hussein
In the wake of the terrorist attacks in the U.S. on Sept. 11, 2001, Iraq was virtually alone among countries in failing to offer official condolences to the U.S. In line with his adversarial relationship with the U.S., Pres. Saddam Hussein publicly opposed the U.S.-led war on terrorism and called on other Islamic countries to help defeat it. He also decried the military action in Afghanistan, calling it a spark that could set “the world on fire.” In response, U.S. Secretary of State Colin Powell suggested that once the U.S. had concluded its campaign in Afghanistan, it would deal with Iraq's weapons program as part of its effort against terrorism.
Kiss your Ass goodbye Saddam
Wednesday, August 06, 2003
REFRAIN FROM SAFE HAVENS
I met a writer. I really just shook hands with him. He also came across the Turkey border. He said he was a photographer and had spoken with the US or Turkey Embasssy and they said he could not cross. He crossed.
His name was something like Mike McConnel from Maryland. He looked a little Kurdish so who know the whole story. He is writing a book on the Kurdish. Plus for some Russian magazine that is called "EGO" In the USA usage of the word.
But the funny part is this.
I talked with this Soldier that walked in with him.
He said the guy lived in the complex or something like that.
There are a few USA Soldiers based in Dohuk.
They are protected by the Kurdish Pesmerge. Probably spelled wrong.
So this guy is living with them. Curious to find out how and why?
If he came across the border himself.
I ask the soldiers about how the reporters came to Iraq.
He said,
"The CIA brings them in real quick, they do a story and leave immediately."
I have not idea of what the whole story is, but I tell you I have seen 2 non soldiers from other countries. One I look at the mirror at, and this guy Mike.
But... I live in a Hotel that is only Kurdish.
He lives with the Military. Hard to get the feel of a place.
I was asked today very clearly,
"Why go to Mosul?"
I said,
"I want to feel the city."
Not a normal way of thinking about a city, but that is my way.
Instinct.
But to me I refrain from the safe havens.
Too much and I would not have visited the country.
Plus the Soldiers are sort of young for me.
Fahrenheit to Celsius Converter
80-90 F or 26-32 Celsius
Most people want to know about the weather.
The temperature in the shade is between 80 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
In the sun I think it would melt my thermometer casing.
The sun is very intense, but there is almost no humidity. Dry heat.
I pretend I am in a dry sauna.
Not that bad. I think Iquitos Peru was my hottest feeling place I have been.
Here are some toys.
Fahrenheit to Celsius Converter
http://www.wbuf.noaa.gov/tempfc.htm
http://www.cimko.com.tr/About/Cf.htm
Gros gros bisous à mon américain préféré.
Oops. Collaboration with the Enemy. (joke)
At the bottom of an email I received.
WHEN A CONVERSATION INTERRUPTS MY DAY
For some reason today the internet cafe opened late. They are very dependable here in Dohuk. So by chance a business owner or person in charge of a municipal project... ( I will leave out the details on purpose ) invited me into his office.
His English was very good and he talked about the unstability of the areas.
Saying that the various Kurdish cities are squabbling with themselves.
He was calm, and looked at the whole world picture. This is very hard for most people. How can you look at the whole world picture when you have not seen the whole world. A reader of lots of daily newspapers may be able to decipher the closer truth. But television is just propaganda to make people angry. Plus talking bad about something sells.
I ask him what the problem was?
He was frustrated with dealing with government.
He has to plan the budget for his construction project.
Today he make a budget and tommorrow he must change it again.
So the future is not guaranteed.
Do one sure of their job or the future.
There is no clear path of the new government , although I believe presently that Kurdistan Iraq has its own country already. The US knows this, the Arabs know this and no one wants to rub it in their face. So they pretend they are part of Iraq.
I ask him the solution.
1. He wants to know that Bush will not stop.
2. Kill Saddam so his followers stop.
The words,
"Saddam - Ali Babba" resonate in my head. I hear them so much.
This gentleman did not say this, it is the children in the street.
The good part is they feel safe to say this.
Honesty is in the children sometimes. Unedited.
DOHUK IS OPEN FOR BUSINESS (Kurdistan)
I am sad and concerned. Dohuk or Kurdstan is open. I could make it sound real dangerous. But there should be thousands of business people in here ready to invade the new markets of Iraq. The Turkey entrance is probably the best land entrance leading to Europe. These people want jobs and money guaranteed. So business is needed.
TOURIST
It is better for non Americans. Especially for dark hair and eyed people.
Kurdistan is probably less dangerous than Colombia. Plus the normal citizen is good and your are pretty much safe from petty crime.
LOOK AT ME AND TOUCH ME
Everyone stares at me, and all the little children come up and pull on my hand or clothes. This can make a normal traveler or tourist crazy. I am totally used to being looked at on a 24 hour basis, so I just smile, nod my head and say, Hello or Saloam.
This is necessary. Do not get angry or frustrated. The children want this so you will give them 1 dinar. But if you give 1 then you will give hundreds. I try to give them food. They do not want food. They want money. The say,
"Mister"
I have my secret pockets so I am not worried about being pick pocketed.
Secret Security Pockets
WHAT I DO WHEN I MEET A SOLDIER?
I say,
"Thank you for taking care of us."
Meaning the people of the USA.
Look them in the eye, and shake their hand.
I am proud of them.
This morning I met a couple of soldiers. There was a street kid selling an exceptionallly good switchblade. I see them in all countries, and this one was special. Stainless steel and not too cluttered with crap. Clean.
The soldier did not have 3 dollar or Kurdish Dinars and really wanted it.
I gave the kid 25 Dinar and paid for the knife.
What goes around comes around.
Not like he was not already real dangerous looking.
A soldier just came in the internet cafe.
They are always carrying a rifle.
I will ask what type?
He said it an M4.
Too heavy for me.
QUESTIONS ON RADIO
OK,
Talked and answered questions on the radio. I was not sure whether I was talking for one hour of five minutes. But I had enough Dinar in my pocket.
2 questions asked?
What is the attitude of the soldiers?
Bored or very hot walking around with enough clothes for winter.
Young.
What do the Iraqi people think of the USA.
There are two distinct Iraqi people.
1. Arabic
2. Kurds
The Kurds love Americans and I think probably 3/4 of the Arabic like the results of the war. The other 1/4 have had the corrupt nipple of Saddam pulled from their mouth and want it put back in so they can resume sucking on their "Mafia" like money.
These people are separated not only by culture, but in some ways there is a defined border around the Kurdish part. Each city so far appears to be a concentration of people and a no mans land in between. I am just starting my trip through Iraq and too early to say, but I believe they live almost totally separated except in the city of Mosul, my next stop.
It is a typical developing country in that what you see is not what is real.
I believe Kurdistan is a country, except for who collects most of the Tax.
WAITING FOR SADDAM
i do not want to move to fast. Maybe Saddam is in Mosul. I would be great if they killed him now, I could join the celebration.
PHOTOS OF SOLDIERS IN FRONT OF PHARMACY
Trying to get these up fast for the group photo in Dohuk of soldiers.
http://www.hobotraveler.com/119dohuk02.shtml
HOTEL OR CITY JUMPING STRATEGY
I want to go to Mosul. I can get there easily. I would like to go to SULAMANIYEH where this is a war crimes museum. I got this off the Baghdad Bulletin
Saddam Torture Museum
I am trying to be sure to get the right city.
Sulamaniyeh I think is in the Kurdish part close to the Iran border. The road between Abil and Sulamaniyeh is suppose to be great.
But my route as planned now is:
Mosul
Arbil or Irbil according to how you spell it.
Sulamaniyeh
Baghdad
BUT... I do not jump cities. I jump from Hotel to Hotel.
The soldiers have all the rooms filled and finding telephone numbers for Hotels in these cities so far is difficult. I need to call to be sure there is a room, and if there is not. I keep going to the next city.
HOT AND TIRED
Little frustrated today. Tried to ask a commander a question. They came to my hotel twice in group of 5-8 people.
Now the Hotel owner probably thinks I am CIA.
Dohuk is extremely safe, but being that I am trying be "Under the Radar," these young bulls in a china shoppe are not helping. They have very little idea on how to approach another culture. The young privates are good, but some of commanders are acting like pain in the ass policeman that want you to kiss up.
I read him the riot act.
They need to take a lesson from Crime Stoppers or something on how to have people contact them.
This is not a problem and I have been in lots more dangerous places than Dohuk.
Tuesday, August 05, 2003
SITES TRYING TO GET ON MY TOP TEN LIST
I have found these sites becoming very helpful for a traveler like me.
They probably do not know I exist. But they are trying hard by being good sites to get in the top ten.
http://www.virtualtourist.com
http://www.countrywatch.com/
My Top Sites for 2003 - Announced Jan 1st of every year.
http://www.hobotraveler.com/toptravelwebsites.php
There is a lot of submissions below. Not real important now. They are always nominating themselves. hehehe
TELEPHONE AND INTERNET CRAP
Long story, but in the wind I got advice to carry or someone would give me a International Telephone card. That and about 25 cents US will get me a Tea here.
INTERNATIONAL TELEPHONE CARDS
These are international. From the country you live in to an international location. They are advertising this. But crap. The have something called KallBack that sort of works in some countries.
MOST OF EUROPE NOW HAS MOBILE TELEPHONES
If you travel only in Europe. The mobile telephone is good. Covers better than USA coverage. I believe.
REST OF WORLD IS PRETTY MUCH LOTTERY OF WAYS TO CALL.
When there is a telephone center... Like Iraq, or Ecuador, etc. it is nice.
You go into a booth and they connect you.
Turkey had a few of these, but not real good. More for local calls.
The Mobile phone was dominant.
Making a call is frustrating. But more correctly for me.
TOO EXPENSIVE
I travel for years. The normal cost of room for is between 2 and 8 dollars.
To make a phone call is to use a months worth of Hotel room.
It is the value of money. It is easy to want to conserve money when you travel. If you know that you can live for one more year by not making telephone calls.
INTERNATIONAL INTERNET ACCESS IS BULLSHIT ALSO.
Unless you are staying in the Hilton and money is not problem.
SATELLITE TELEPHONE IS ONLY TRUE SOLUTION.
I try to be test case for them, but so far no one has ask me to checkout their satellite telephone systems. hmm Free!
KIDS GOT A THING GOING ON
The kid around Dohuk are very friendly and talk a little English. But I think they know how to make an American Happy. They say,
"Bush Good,
Saddam Ali Baba."
It was the third child that has said something like this.
NEWSLETTER LINK - August 5, Dohuk, Iraq
Here the link to my free newsletter.
Make life easy subscribe and get in your email box.Dohuk, Iraq - What is Adventure Travel?
ALL ALONE IN DOHUK IRAQ
I said to the guy at the reception desk.
"I am going to go chase women."
He thought that was funny. He knows that is impossible. But he is so serious. Trying to give him a lighten up pill.
The Soldiers need to do this also. The are young and look like they do not have much fun. Sort of like this,
"No bars, no disco, no party?"
I think they are outside their culture and no one has taught them how to meet the locals and assimilate. Give me a week. I will teach some tricks of the trade.
WHAT IRAQ IS LIKE SO FAR?
The internet is like Peru. Very good.
They are just about as personal as Belgium. (On the too smart side)
They are sort of like the French I have met traveling. Cold at first then warm up good.
Honest like Thailand. (Thailand wil nick you but will not rob you.)
Level of modern - Brazil. (Very)
This place is very advanced and they have not idea what poor is.
I am not worried about this country so far. Just keep all that money out of one person hands. But I have only been in Dohuk.
Monday, August 04, 2003
MY GROUP MAIL WILL SENT TODAY
Hello,
I will wait until you get to the office.
Have a cup of coffee.
Read a little of the newspaper.
Make a phone call to notify people that you are maybe working.
I will send the letter then.
Dohuk, Iraq and what is Adventure Travel?
MAKING FRIENDS
I have 2 Kurdish friends now in Dohuk.
They both speak better than normal English and can explain a lot.
I had a discussion and was asking,
"Why are people still getting killed?"
He said,
"Saddam has many friends and a lot of money. These friends do not want Saddam to end because their money source will end."
He thinks it will stop when 2 things happen.
1. Kill Saddam
2. Give money from oil to people.
They had a food for oil program and he wants that to start again.
We discussed the various problems with corruption, how to? And other ideas.
I think in a nutshell.
It is not simple from my culture to understand their culture.
I also was explaining about 2nd and 3rd generation welfare in USA.
How they will not work.
It is like the Dole or Dough in most European countries.
The unemployment in USA now is 6.2 percent.
In continental Europe this would be nothing. They double this on a normal basis.
To quote a famous song.
"Money for nothing and the chicks are free."
What the MTV or X generation wants.
TASTE BEFORE YOU EAT
My friend Gazafer said it correct.
When in a dodgy place.
"Taste it before you eat it."
Discover before you jump.
Double D - DD
DD - Dohuk Diahreah
This has nothing to do with Dohuk. But it sounded good.
I am the bad boy.
I drink the water.
I eat the streat food.
I had a class of water with ice cubes.
I am just making an adjustment to all the little animals in the Middle East.
I lost my cookies and now I feel fine.
I did learn.
You can sit down on squat toilet.
I will leave it at that.
Great way to lose weight.
CITY CODES FOR IRAQ
Hello,
Chris in Idaho came to the rescue again. Found a link with "Dohuk" city code included.
Iraq area codes (Country code: 964)
I THINK YOU MUST OMIT (0) IF CALLING FROM OTHER COUNTRY
I believe they are trying to say 6D or &D, that it is a 6 or digit local number.
City / area code / digits
Baghdadu 24(0)1 + 7D SN
Tkritzsb 6(0)21 + 6D SN
Kutd 82(0)23 + 6D SN
Ramadieb (0)24 + 6D SN
Baquba _9(0)25 + 6D SN
Hilla (al-Hillah) (0)30 + 6D SN
Kerdalat (0)32 + 6D SN
Najafp 6(0)33 + 6D SN
Diwaniyat 25(0)36 + 6D SN
Samawa _(0)37 + 6D SN
Basrahi +2(0)40 + 6D SN
Nasiriyafx 5(0)42 + 6D SN
Amara 3(0)43 + 6D SN
Kirkukukc (0)50 + 6D SN
Sulaimaniyath +0(0)53 + 6D SN
Mosulr 5(0)60 + 6D SN
Duhokjv (0)62 + 6D SN
Erbilr (0)66 + 6D SN
INFORMATION THANKS TO THIS LINK AND CHRIS:
CITY CODES OF IRAQ
Note: To call home from Dohuk is probably very easy. I have not tried it yet, but there are many phone centers like Ecuador.
DOHUK - MERCEDES AND BMW
It may be hard to believe. But about 20 percent of the cars are either a Mercedes or a BMW here.
HOPE THEY USE THE AMERICAN SECRET WEAPON
I have now met maybe 30 soldiers in Dohuk. They are here for R&R. i am trying to place my finger on it, but they are not amused. A little too serious to me, and not remembering to use the American Secret Weapon.
"American Charm"
These boys are in good spirits. Strong, but who would really wants to be in Iraq.
(Besides crazy Hobo like me. But anywhere the guidebook says not to go...)
Too hot, no girls, and too much at a very young age. Life is good, and even in the worst of times and places that little saying still make me smile.
"Life is Good" turn on the Secret Weapon. Make these people laugh.
Always is, and always will be.
Thanks guys and gals.
Met a few women soldiers here.
I sat down today on the long bench of older statesmen. The bought me a Pepsi and we looked at each other and nodded heads. They are a cool bunch of men. I sit down and they place their 2 index fingers together.
Saying,
"America - Kurdish"
Same sign as when they ask if I am married.
DOHUK, IRAQ - DAY 2 PHOTOS
Kids - Mercedes and BMW's - Soldiers from Indiana
http://www.hobotraveler.com/118dohuk04.shtml
hmmm Placing a Photo here. Experiment
Sunday, August 03, 2003
ANDY TELEPHONE IN DOHUK
I am in room 110.
I think the country codes is: 964
City code is 62
Local Number is 7224653
From USA 011
011 964 62 7224653
It could be with extra 0
011 964 (0)62 7224653 Say American - Andy (Keep repeating slowly)
They will probably say. OK
My room number is not really important.
Say over and over America, America. Do not say United States.
They will not undertand. Talk very slow please.
This is getting fun. I am trying to help the radio station call me.
I guess if they really want, I can call them... hehehe
But as always... Bullshit walks, and money talks.
I think most people want to be famous. I am doing my duty and repaying them for helping me to get this Press Pass which I must hide very good for fear of lots of trouble. Not that I am being paid. Suppose to be an exchange. I say this and they say "HoboTraveler.com." I have said the "This"
Maybe I will go to the UNICEF office. hehehe, I think they have a satellite telephone. I have never known the UN or UNICEF to go anything but first class.
The always have these white SUVs that cost more than the whole village in most places I have visited. They do good, but not on the shoestring like a Hobo. But this place is missing the real power of any NGO (Non Govermental Organizations). There presence is hard to find.
SADDAM WAR CRIMES MUSEUM
Sadly there appears to be a museum of already about the crimes of Saddam.
It needs documented. I took a look again at the Mosul link and followed to here:
Article on War Crimes Museum near or in Mosul
It says,
"SULAMANIYEH" as the city.
This spelling of places is kicking my butt. I will look for this place on map or maps.
BAGHDADBULLETIN.COM
One of the guys from the webpage:
http://www.baghdadbulletin.com
QUOTED:
it's the back road between Irbil and Sulumanya... very up and down,
with a couple of large hills, but lovely. A place behind Sulumanya called
Ahmed something is also meant to be pleasant.
I am think on my map it is Arbil. It looks like I need to go east toward Iran and look over the border to say hello.
I am going to buy a better map today if possible.
NOW WHAT?
I made it into the country. Now what? Dohuk is in the center of a big dry spot on the earth surface and surrounded by big brown mountains.
I have this guidebook on Iraq with me. I purchased used from Amazon.com.
It is the Bradt Guide to Iraq. Very good on history. The writer did the 5 star hotel trip as best I can tell, so sort of looks as the Hotel situation as just pay and go.
A Middle Class Guilt perspective.
I must find out what I like.
So far, the most interesting thing is this group of men that are sitting around. I cannot tell what they are doing. For sure they are discussing something. But I did not see the normal excuse to do nothing. Tea, Coffee, or Beer... Maybe eating.
They have on long pants. A long cloth material wrapped around their waist. I would call it a Turbin on their head, but there is probably a proper name. Not that I have time to discover the intricacies of every aspect of a country. Life is too short to study everything. But these men seem distinguished and proper. Like the fathers of the cities, or maybe just the guys hanging around the coffee shop.
My father would do good at this. Hanging around listening at the coffee shop. My father is short on words, but that may be around me. But I am never short on words.
I will try to be diplomatic and very sneaky. I will take a photos.
This group notices everything, so I will have to be especially sneaky.
It is not dangerous. But better to not ask much.
They always recommend you ask. I prefer to sneak a photos.
They often get angry at just the question,
"Can I take a photo."
If you just take a photo like any normal person. They think it is natural and do not care. But if you ask, yes they have a problem. Too complicated for me.
I found a shoe repairman with a electric sewing machine.
I will have my backpack repaired today.
He looked like a good guy also.
The children ask me to take their photo constantly. So if you notice an inordinate amount of photos of groups of children this is why.
WHICH LANGUAGE DO I LEARN?
The Kurdish words I learned in Silopi, Turkey are of no value.
I was trying to say thank you to the Hotel owner today.
He said he spoke Christian. He speaks a little English and explainded. I did not understand how you can speak Christian. I double checked by putting my hand in front of my face as if to pray. He crossed himself like the Catholics.
Who knows which language to learn.
The Kurdistan people or Iraq people speak more English than the normal Turkish person so this is good.
ALABAMA SOLDIER PHOTOS IN DOHUK IRAQ
I met some USA Soldiers in Dohuk.
I shook their hands and said,
"Thank You."
Here are some photos. I do not know their names. But think they are mostly from National Guard in Alabama.
http://www.hobotraveler.com/118alabama.shtml
View of Taxi trip from Silopi to Dohuk
http://www.hobotraveler.com/118dohuk01.shtml
http://www.hobotraveler.com/118dohuk02.shtml
http://www.hobotraveler.com/118dohuk03.shtml
I SMELL CLASS SYSTEM
This is a foreign concept to Americans, but most countries, including countries including Europe have a class system structure.
I have said in the past that they Europeans give me the feeling that they inherently think the USA is peasants and they are Queens...(oops)
I am here in Dohuk. There is about 3 Mercedes Benz parked in front of the Internet Cafe. I have found most of the people friendly and engaging. Wanting to smile. But... The Mercedes were pulling out. The guy just glares at me.
! I know that look !
In countries that have a heavy rich versus poor.
Dohuk seems unfazed by the war.
Like Guatemaula or even Argentina.
There is a smug look they give people.
The will walk to the front of the line. Cut line, and such.
Dictatorships are about the special and the unspecial people.
USA is terrible lacking in being able to empathis or understand how to deal with class system countries.
But... I am new in the country, and not time to jump to conclusions.
THE BEARD STORY
It is like this. If I am going to get shot at.... Which I do not expect. But, if I was going to get shot at, I do not want to have a beard... The Rest of the Story.
BETTER INTERNET - WORSE HOTELS
I think the hotels were better in Turkey, but the internet access and the quality of computers so far is a lot better then Turkey. I only know Istanbul and Silopi, Turkey.
PHOTOS SOON
I took maybe 30 photos and will put them up on the net soon.
It looks like the internet is better in Iraq then Turkey, so no problem.
TRIP TO DOHUK, IRAQ FROM SILOPI TURKEY
Hello,
I crossed the border today. It was interesting to say the least.
Cost:
20 Million Lira to some office in Turkey.
20 Dollars USA to Taxi driver. That said he was going to Zaho and did not.
20 Million Lira to somebody. Maybe my Taxi driver getting himself a tip, but on the Iraq side.
DO NOT say you are with the media.
Say Turizm or Trader or Some Job in the USA.
Do NOT take photos at the border... At least not openly.
DO smile and talk to everyone.
No one really speaks English at the border.
The Turkey side is much more difficult then the Iraq side.
If you do not want to understand or answer a question.
Pretend you do not understand their English.
WHAT happened first.
I was corrected. They said is as not Iraq. It was Kurdistan.
I have had 2 people bring up Saddam. Both were happy he is gone.
THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN TURKEY AND KURDISTAN
I believe that as you cross a bridge. Maybe the Tigris river and enter Iraq or Kurdistan as they prefer the terrain turns from the flat wheatland that was before Silopi to a series of small brown dusty rock mountains. Not too high. But barren. There is the same wheat fields in the low areas. The view goes for miles or kilometers if that is the way you think.
There was a drop in the quailty of homes as I cross the border. More mud or adobe brick instead of the red clay brick with the concrete covering. But most of the villages are more in the open.
I entered 2-5 small cities. There was a small bypass it appeared around Zaho.
Upon entering Dohuk my taxi driver. A new one because the other said he could not cross..., was very nice. The other was good. But was typical.. cheat a little type.
The new one took me to the Jiyvan hotel. It appearred to be full of American Soldiers. The seemed very bored and very young. Not too inquisitive. Did not even pay attention to me, but then again. They are young and full of themselves. But they was nice, and all was good.
I went to the reception.
FULL
I ask about another hotel. They called the hotel. Found out the price was 25 dollar. I went to the Sulvan or something like that. FULL. I guess the guy did not ask if it was full. Normal menality in most countries. NOTE: Both are either 4 or 5 star hotels. Not that I care. But same ole same old.
The man said,
"We have room tommorrow."
I said, shaking my head.
"Today."
What do people think. I came here to see their hotel. Always amazes me about hotels. What do they think.
I am not in a nice hotel. Although I do not like that the manager wanted the key when I left. I do have a big armoir or something like that with a keyed lock. I put both my bags inside and came to the internet.
No one seems to care I am here.
The look at me less than in Silopi.
All is good.
My telephone number today is 722-4653
I do not know the country code or city code or any of that type of info.
Best way to find this, is to surf for expensive Hotels in Dohuk.
Compare.
Thanks from Dohuk, Iraq or Kurdistan.
Most of the Kurds want their own country. But are not rebellious about it, but they do not seem to think they relate to the Turkey people or the Baghdad people.
ARRIVED IN DOHUK
I am in Dohuk and all is fine.
The Taxi driver did not come.
The manager lost the number of the Taxi driver.
The managers called Yasar. Yasar called the Taxi driver. The manager called Yasar again.
Yasar wanted to talk to me.
He said,
"Ten."
I said,
"No," Shook hands with all and left.
I did not like the Taxi driver anyway. Seemed slimey. He was probably ok. But I am not on the 10 year plan for Iraq. I am on the 3-4 week plan.
The internet here is 7 Dinar or about 1 dollar USA an hour. It appears to be everywhere.
Saturday, August 02, 2003
AM I AFRAID? AM I THE SENSITIVE TYPE? hehehe
I had a girlfriend in college that said,
"You are insensitive."
I did not understand that statement, and it still eludes me more or less.
But, I do try to acknowledge how I feel.
Today I am maybe frustrated. I do not like waiting for a Taxi.
I would have cross the border at the moment it opened. That is my normal method. Be the first in the Queue.
But this taxi driver is recommended and people know him.
AM I AFRAID?
Maybe a little. But not really. Probably less then when I entered from Pasto Colombia to Cali, Colombia.
I felt safe there, when the colectivo taxi driver wanted me to put on the seat belt so he did not get in trouble with the police. I realized there was more simple immediate problems.
There is a percentage factor.
How many crazy people per 100.
I would say in the Kurdish areas there is one of the smallest percentages in my travels.
SouthEast Asia was 5 times more dangerous then the Kurdish people.
Now.. The Arabic. I have no clear concept of them.
I will say.
If a guy has a little cap on his head. A long white robe or like pajamas. A wife that follows him covered wiht a black covering. A beard. I pay attention. This may in this area be the same as the USA religious fanatic.
The religous fanatic or zealot is the person in the USA that walks carrying their Bible... All the time. Arms crossed and acting like they are imbued, or need to go to the toilet. I am not sure.
But these 2 types of people exist. They are in all cultures.
The idea of Jihad exist, or religous war. It is the idea of getting rid of all not believers. I guess the call that an infidel. Funny part is that in all of the religious concepts. I am pretty sure that we both have the exact same God and the path was different.
But the little beard is a sign.
If you watched TV yesterday and saw the burial of Saddam's two sons. The ones that were talking or praying over the grave are the ones I am talking about.
Note: In the area where I am right now. I have seen nobody like that.
I saw one in Istanbul. Talked with him by accident. He was eating Kebob at my favorite stand.
He was Kebob and a little on the wacky side, but not a true wacky type.
I also look into people eyes.
That is the whole story.
I GO TO IRAQ TODAY
Tourism Iraq...
I am excited and waiting for my Taxi to come. This Taxi driver is a friend of Yasar. He is a good guy that has a shipping company. He is helping to send Pre-fabicated houses from Ankara, Turkey to Tikrit for the USA Soldiers. I will cross the border hopefuly with the one taxi driver The driver is a little on the arrogant side and I do not think is very responsible. Greedy yes, but responsible no. Greed though is good thing sometimes. People will work harder for their greed then for normal things. But all is good. He is safe. He has a 2 or 3 gold teeth. I can always sell him.. (Joke) if I have trouble.
Enough money really does solve problems.
MEDIA AAGH!
I did a lot of work to get this press card from WOWO. They helped me as best they know how. I now find this is scourge of my trip. I had to dump all the information they gave me in the trash this morning. I hid.... Hopefully very good the press card they gave me. I am not press, but more of guy with a group mail that got out of control.
The letter has availed me a way to make money to keep traveling. I am grateful to the people that send money or donate..... Hmmm good time to give you the donate with credit card link... hehehe.
I hope all of you are not too serious. I am just a friendly hobo, that like to travel and meet people. I do not ask you to pay for anything. But if you wish... Bring it on! As President Bush said. Go to this link:
NOTE: My travel expenses have double or tripled, so the help is needed.
Donate to HoboTraveler.com by Credit Card - Paypal.com Thanks in advance.
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BORDER CROSSING METHODS
I normally try to go across a border wýth a taxý or bus that ýs goýng onward. This is an inducement for the taxi driver or bus driver to help me enter.
JOURNALIST PROBLEM
I am not a journalist, but some may perceive it that way. The border is requiring all journalist to get permission from their embassy. I think it is free for me. The Turkey people pay 50 dollars USA.
THE WEATHER IS GREAT
I have a huge problem. Normally to wash clothes by hand, which I like to do almost daily, I need to stay in one location for a few days.
(Note: I think this is against some sort of Macho creed in this area of world. That a man washes clothes.)
The weather here is great for drying clothes. The air is so dry that in 3 hours the clothes are dry. That is on a day with no wind. Trying to move daily and have clean clothes is impossible in humid countries.
BAGHDAD TRANSPORATION ANSWER / The Russian Connection
My very dependable and helpful Russian buddy living in Baghdad gave me this answer about transporation in Iraq.
QUOTE
They have all types of transport - cars with a/c, cars without a/c,
small buses with a/c and without a/c and big buses with a/c and without a/c.
As a rule the anything with a/c will cost you app 2 times more. For example
the small bus with a/c costs from Suleimania to Baghdad app 50USD. It will
take app 10 passengers, so if you take one place it will cost you 5 USD.
Also from Kirkuk to Baghdad one place in a/c car cost app 3 usd, without a/c
1.5 usd, in bus wiothout a/c app 1 USD or even less.
Good.
I think they have it all.
I CAME TO SEE THE WORLD / CRAZY OR NO CRAZY
I am a traveler. I know some of you think I am spending time thinking about Iraq too much... But that is the current theme of this Hobo...What about?
An overland route to China?
Was Marco Polo really a Hobo?
Crazy or no crazy. I travel. Only one way to see the world. Go there.
I think there are a few interestingly crazy people in Iraq that need terminated. But I believe for the most part the Iraq people will be in British terms, "Good Fun."
SHAVED THE BEARD
My beard was completed. My first beard, but today I cut it off.
I grew the beard with the thought of blending in a little more with the Iraq people.
Forget that, I am as American as Apple Pie, and will look that way.
I am very pround of the USA and British Soldiers Victory.
I hope they find Saddam in womens clothes, but for me, I will be me.
PHOTOS OF SILOPI, TURKEY
Got bored, so I went on the roof and took photos. Almost all the buildings in Silopi and almost all of Turkey are 4-6 stories high. So it is not hard to find a tall building. The Habur Hotel I live in about 6. A great cheap tour.
PHOTS FROM ROOF OF HABUR HOTEL
WHAT ABOUT TRANSPORTATON?
I am finally thinking about the real problems of travel. How to get there? Transportation in a country. The immediate crossing of the border has been at the forefront of my brain. Now I am realizing. I must cross the next country. How? By Taxi? By Car? By Colectivo Taxi? By Bus?
My choice is bus. I do not ever like the other options, and an airplane does not see and feel the country.
A bus is safe because they would normally have to disrupt the whole bus to cause a problem.
Plus I meet normal people going to where the go. This is great. A happenstance meeting of culture and not because I went a tourist locations. I find some of my best friends like the man that gave me the prayers beads. This is always pleasant. Maybe some of you think to ride the bus is to slum it, but in reality it the safest transportation. Renting a car is the most dangerous. You are isolated and the police or criminals can separate you from anyone and abuse or kill. Hard to do with a whole bus load of people.
But there is suppose to be a breakdown of the infrastructure in Iraq. Does this include the bus?
I am thinking that they have the most trouble with salaries. I am not sure that is infrastructure.
Painful yes, but that is another type of issue. People are going and coming from Iraq.
The man from Baghdad said to take the large air conditioned buses. They are the safest.
So if I understood him correctly. Once I cross the boder, I will change in Dohuk to traveling by large commercial bus companies. If they have a toilet and movies then I will have also other opinions.
Being bombed is not to say that before they were bombed that they did not have very high level of road, electricity, water, and other services.
Friday, August 01, 2003
DO NOT FORCE THE PLAY
I played basketball when I was younger.
I remember my coach jumping from the bleacher and running to me saying,
"Do not force the play!"
He was my 8th grade coach.
I have never forgot this, and know that patience is important.
Most travelers feel a need to see or go fast. Like the world will miss them. Like there is a better place ahead. This is dangerous and childish at the same time, saying in reality.
"I want what I want, and I want it now."
I could probably move 5 time faster, and am probably more equipped then the normal traveler. But what is the goal. To be where quickly. I want to enjoy this sojourn and not feel like I am working. I am having fun, and being a child in a good way.
I do not force the play to happen, I wait for the good life to come to me... hehehe
Life is good.
DEPENDENT UPON GAZAFER
My friend Gazafer form Ankara, Turkey is leaving today. I can already feel the language crunch. He has helped me immensely to translate. But the great part is my Kurdish will increase dramatically. This is always the problem with hanging around with English speaking people. It does not prepare you for the real country. Its an illusion of safety and control.
GUT FEELING ON RICHER
I keep getting this gut level feeling that the Kurdish Iraq side of border is richer then the Turkey side. The locals keep saying,
"You can buy that on the Iraq side."
SUNDAY DEPARTURE
My plan now is to leave on Sunday morning for Dohuk. It is very close. Only about 2 hours from here, but as with all border the flavor will probably change rapidly. Borders are not just country borders, but normally a culture border. This will not be so abrupt, because there is a Kurdish camaraderie and not a great separation. I believe now that to go into the Kurdish area is probably less dangerous than my travels in the country of Colombia. Plus so far the Kurdish culture is a higher level of civilization or development than most the developing countries I visit. I consider the Kurdish or Turkish cultures similar to Belgium or most of Central Europe. The quality of home is different but the people are similar, and maybe more optimistic in their family relationship. They are having large family while most of Europe now is doing anything they can to induce the indigenous people to have children.
WHAT IRAQ WANTS?
My friend from Baghdad explained to me.
The people of Iraq will not be happy until they have money, food, electricity and shelter. As always in life people want someone to take care of them. President John F. Kennedy said,
“It is not what your country can do for you,
It is what you can do for your country.”
The world has turned this around. It is always now,
There is almost never the best way. How can WE work together. There is a constant we against them. I believe this a byproduct of world press organizations. In the Bible one of the greatest of all sins is to cause “disharmony” among between people.
IN FRIENDLY TERRITORY
The World had an extreme misconception. They believe that people from the USA are everywhere in the world. The reason for this misconception is easy. The USA is the default culture classification. If a local person does not know where the person is form, then they label them as the USA.
What does that mean for my travels?
I as a person from the USA represent a 1 in 20 ratio. I am a minority as a citizen of the USA.
I am almost always the only person from the USA.
Well… Right now there are no travelers or tourist. Only me and this is great. I do not have to listen to any of the European noise , and on the other side. The Kurdish or Iraq people I meet love Americans. So in this area of the world life is extremely hospital and generous.
DOHUK PROBLEMS
My Taxi driver has decided to not go tommorrow. I am not sure I will wait for him. Zaho is les than 24 Kilometers from here. He says he will go on Sunday or Monday. Not good to wait for a Taxi drivers. They are right up there with Car Saleman and Reporters in reputation.
BAT CAVE
Hello,
I am trying to plan a trip to Iraq. It is hard to concentrate. The owner of the Hotel wants me to go to the city of "Batman" to see a cave. I say Batman, he says, "Baatmaan." I think we are not talking the same language.
THANKS TO THE HOTEL HABUR - SILOPI, TURKEY
Made a quick page to say thank you. I think 2nd time in 6 year. Air conditioning for a Hobo is not normal.
Hotel Habur
BATMAN
Did you know?
There is a city called Batman in Turkey.
Wonder if he lives there?
Look for Batman on Turkey / Iraq Border
WHERE IS THE WORLD? UN - Business People? Etc
I saw my first UN (United Nations) vehicle today. I was lucky. I was playing with my new camcorder and when I turned it on from the balcony of the Hotel. There it was.
But... It is my first in about 5 days.
I was thinking that this city. Silopi. Would be full of NGO's (Non Govermental Orgainizations) entering Iraq to help provide food and aid. One UN truck.
SILOPI IS EASY ROUTE FROM EUROPE.
Entering Syria would be the crazy way to haul food and aid to Iraq.
There does not seem to be any aid. No business people.
A few Iraq people leaving. But there does not seem to be Iraq people entering to live.
This is strange to me.
Not even some French or Germans going in to retrieve some of their weapons... hehehe.
I was expecting this place to be full of "Tree Huggers" and "Save the World" Hippie chicks.
Just me and a bunch of Engineers or people to do wth the trucking of Petro in and out of the country.
BOREDOM
I have been to the local restaruant 5 days in a row.
All men and no women.
You have to get married in this country.
That is the only way to talk with women... hehehe.
But I am having a good time. The Kurdish people are some of the funnest and warmest people I have ever met in my 6 years of travels.
LOVELY ROAD RECOMMENDATION IN IRAQ
This was a recommended path to take south from Turkey to the heart of Iraq.
"it's the back road between Irbil and Sulumanya... very up and down,
with a couple of large hills, but lovely. A place behind Sulumanya called
Ahmed something is also meant to be pleasant."
I now have 2 friends writing from Baghdad.
BUYING DOLLARS
Went to the Automatic Bank Machine or ATM in USA lingo and took out Lira.
I can purchase 300 Dollars USA for 430,000,000 Lira. Yesterday the price was 420,000,000.
Dollar are the currency of choice. To be safe. I always need some dollars.
I was crossing the border in Central American one time. They would not take the money from the country I was leaving, and would not take the money of the country I was entering.
I need Dollars for Iraq.
TIGRES RIVER ALONG THE EDGE OF SYRIA AND TO IRAQ
Chris sent a link to a very good map of the area where I am located.
I am in a city between Cizre and Zakhe. See how the spelling constantly changes with the word. Zaho.
I passed the Tigres River while on the bus. The driver kept pointing and saying,
"Suriye," he did not say Syria.
There is a tri-angle of the three countries.
Map - Bottom of Turkey, Top of Iraq
Map shows the rivers and mountains.
WMD WEAPONS OF MASS DESTRUCTION
I was talking with the man from Baghdad. He has a PHD in Mechanical Engineering.,
I asked,
"Does Iraq have Weapons of Mass Destruction?"
He said,
"After the first war most were destoyed.
But Saddam wanted them and was trying.
But you have stopped the Weapon of Mass Destruction."
I said,
"What?"
He said,
"Saddam is the Weapon of Mass Destruction,
It is the person that wants and controls that is the problem."
MAP UNDER MY CONTROL
I have posted a map that I can sketch on and explain.
This is the page.
I go to Dohuk in the Kurdish area tommorrow.
Saturday.
Dohuk is just 80 or so miles into Turkey.
http://www.hobotraveler.com/iraqmap.htm
I am tying to give you a map with rivers.
The rivers and mountains are natural boundaries between cities and countries.
Plus there is often a major transition in cultures.
Cultures can change dramatically over a mountain.
COMPUTER HEADACHES
The internet compute functions in the Turkish language.
The letters are almost the same. They can look the same, but at the computer level they are different.
I have worked for 2 hours to get to this point today... aagh.
Plus one of the boys in the hotel was surfing the porn sites and they loaded up the computer with crap files...
tmps and such. Cache. etc.
I have the Hotel Computer clean now, and will defrag for them.
All this to get to here.
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